Ok guys, Im not normally one for starting new topics unless I have something to add. But in this case, I've been searching and haven't found alot of information on existing SSM S2Ks. I cant remember their names but I have seen the Black BSP and the Yellow BSP builds. Additionally I have read the info at farnorthracing.com (several times). I'm not exactly a noob to autocross. I've been doing it on and off since 2006 and pretty consistently for the past 2 years until I tore down the car in spring of this year. I do not consider myself a "veteran" driver, but I like to think of myself as a "good" driver, and I understand the book principles of driving and what they do.

What Im looking for assistance with:
I have been around Hondas for a while, but most of the knowledge I have is performance related and just general mechanic stuff. I am not new to suspension stuff, but I am not very well versed in the technical aspect of tuning the suspension and diagnosing setup weaknesses. I also struggle a little bit actually being able to describe what the car is doing when I'm driving it, I'm working on it though. I will try to describe everything in as much detail as possible. Additionally, I would like opinions on future things I should be purchasing.

What I want for the car:
While I'm not expecting or shooting for a jacket, I definately would like to make the car as competitive as I can financially. My goal is to use autocross for good seat time and experience while I eventually hope I can move on to club racing once I live close enough that I can afford the over night trips and additional costs incurred with club racing versus autocross.

The car:
MY04 (suzuka)
KPro - tuned 228 whp (dynapack) rev limit 8.6k
Enkei PF-01s 17x8.5 +40 with RS-3s (255 square)
ACT HD Pressure plate, ACT lightweight Flywheel, and OEM clutch disk
Tein S-Tech Springs on stock shocks
Full (custom) 3" single exhaust with HKS Hi-Power muffler and Test Pipe
Heat wrapped stock header with top heat shield
DIY hood vents
Rear end is currently at PuddyMod getting a stage 2 with OEM Diff and 4.44 gears
Trans is currently at Honda getting a rebuild
Head was rebuilt >100 miles ago from low compression on #4. Valve guides had a little too much play in them and burned a valve on the exhaust side
(this was done at a local machine shop who is a "v8 guy" which I somewhat regret, but there were no other options at the time.
I am currently exploring the option of picking up an additional motor which I would send off to a reputable shop to get taken
of the right way. however at this time the engine runs ok, but with a mysterious valve tick [Ive adjusted the valves 3 times,
its not the valve lash] that I have yet to take the time to diagnose)
I have some Hankook z214 C71 compound 245s that are ready to be mounted to the PF01s when the car gets back on the road and a set of AP2 rears for the street tires
I just ordered some Megan Racing "track" series coilovers, the spring rate is 12k/mm square
Currently running the OEM FSB with the rear removed
Got a big nasty spoiler from random1 that is not on the car yet
Planning to do a class maximum front splitter in corrugated aluminum (I have a hook up back home from a Sign guy)

Currently planning:
Need to order some axle spacers
" new release bearing
" clutch disk and get flywheel and pressure plate resurfaced
Waiting for parts list from Honda of what needs replacing in the transmission
Eventually get some 6ULRs in 17x10 and some r comps in 275 (sometime before I have to buy tires again)
Get a buddy back home to fab up the sneaky hitch as posted here on S2KI
Get my hands on a tire/tool trailer from harbor freight

Any initial ideas? I'm sure I havent given anyone much to go on, but I you have questions please let me know, I usually think better that way anyway.

 

I forgot to mention. I am running an alignment that works ok for the springs that are currently on the car, but I am not sure what I'll be needing to change to once I get the new suspension (much stiffer). I'm assuming I may need to decrease the rear camber some.

As of right now the car is pretty loose, which I attribute to how much camber I'm running and under full side load I have about 1/3 of the contact patch on the ground on the inside. I have some pictures I can upload of what the suspension is doing while under load when I get home. And I'll post what my actual alignment settings are too.

 

If your eventual goal is club racing, I'd take the money you have earmarked for the SSM build and just go road racing. Autocross will only help you prepare for road racing up to a certain point -- there are some skills in road racing (most notably driving in traffic, and cornering at high speeds) that no amount of autocross will teach you.

If you're already a good driver, you're ahead of most people who start road racing.

You're going to need a *lot* more power. The class-leading RX-7s (which should weigh in the same ballpark as a prepped S2000) make probably one and a half to two times the power you're making right now.

 

I'd ditch the megan suspension until you have a better grasp on this area of your car. Save the money, it could be better spent.

 

Yes. You're going to need some higher spring rates if you want to do SSM. I'm thinking 1000lb fronts, 800lb rears and some nice shocks. You'll also need a nice FSB.

 

Well I live several hours from any track, and my current financial situation cant afford the additional cost of road racing versus autocross (higher fees, more tires, hotels etc). I am looking at a job opportunity that would put me in phoenix (and local to two tracks) with a fatter pay check. But for the time being, I will have to settle for 1-2 autocrosses a month at a distance of 3ish hours away (those are the closest). I realize autocross and club racing are very different, but seat time is still seat time when it comes down to it. But the other stuff I'll just have to address when I can get to HPDEs, not much I can do otherwise in that department. I know I will need more power, but I'm also just talking regional competitiveness here, there isnt a whole lot of SSM participation in the Arizona groups I run with. And everyone's got to start somewhere, I already have the hard part out of the way (ECU)

For the cost its a good starting point. Could it be better spent? Perhaps; But for the time being and the tires I have (245 R compound) these were the best combination of affordability and off the shelf spring rate I could find. Worst case I can make due with them for a while until a better option opens up for me (I'm pretty used to driving on crap as it is now anyway ). Granted I cant really use other cars/drivers for comparison, but I am a decent bit off of "similarly" prepped cars. And by similar I mean the guys in my region that have the work of several seasons tweaking setups. I'm also not saying its not me, but other drivers (with lots more experience) have confirmed my car is considerably loose.

This is where I start getting into the point where I dont really know what I need. I dont know how to figure the amount of spring I need to counter my level of grip/weight of the car. Megan's documentation says these will support up to 16k/mm springs (which a calculator says is 780lb/in), which would get me approaching the rates you're suggesting. Do you know of anyone with a similar setup that those rates worked well for? I am looking into some FSB options now, but I dont know if it is a good idea to just buy without driving the car on each thing. I wouldnt want to end up getting something that would harm me more than help (which I realize is highly unlikely when it comes to a FSB). The same could be said for the Megans, but they are a huge step up from what I'm on now, so they may not be the greatest or exactly what I need, but it is a step in the right direction.

 

Alignment:

Front:
Camber -2
Toe 0
Caster 6.2

Rear:
Camber -2.6
Toe .8

Photo from SD National Tour earlier this year. This was day 2 and the center sweeper coming down the hill toward the finish. CLICKY

 

I have an SSM S2000.

Take Pedalfaster's advice. You could buy a Spec Miata, tow vehicle and trailer for what it would cost to build an uncompetitive SSM S2000.

Basically keep in mind that a C6 Vette is a Super Stock car.
A GTR is an ASP car.
You're talking about building a car that's theoretically faster than both.

To be blunt, your 228 whp will never cut it as you only have 80 torque at 4000rpms.

So turbo or Roots SC, good shocks and big wheels. We use 18x11 CCWs with 315/30/18 A6s. Basically, you'll need a trailer if you're going to run SSM.

 

Also keep in mind that top STOCK S2000s are running 275 A6s. So you have to do better than that at a minimum.

 

Pic of Your car ckit?