I wouldn't recommend getting the RCA shims, just the camber joint.

I personally like the J's b/c in increases camber by increasing track width, as opposed to decreasing track width.

There are no moving parts.
It is lighter than the OEM setup

Things I don't like about SPC.
Its heavier than the OEM ball joint.
There are moving parts.
It increases the distance between the the upper and lower control arm (not track width)
Install is much more involved.
Not really an cheaper at the end of the day.

For me, it was a no brainer.

 

j's all the way

 

Sounds good. J's it is. Thanks guys.

 

That technique didn't work for me. One side came out with a few bangs from a sledge hammer, the other side was a lot worse. No amount of banging and PB Blaster would free the ball joint. I had to sacrifice my OEM ball joint and use a fork tool (didn't have access to the better tool), and the ball joint only came out with the fork tool and sledge hammer used simultaneously.


modMonkey, if you later determine that you need the L1 plates, I can sell you mine since I have the L1 kit but am only using the ball joints.

 

Curious as to specifically why you wouldn't recommend it (assuming a car lowered more than 40mm).

 

J's all the way here too. The SPC piece just looks like it's begging to break. The J's is nothing more than a factory replacement piece designed for more camber.

If I was doing it again I would get the S1 joints. I got a killer deal on the L1 joints (roll center adjuster ones) when I had my old s2k and honestly they got me the camber I was looking for but they didn't do anything else for the car.

 

I actually like the SPC's for the exact same reason a lot of people don't... I like the fact that I can run a wide wheel / tire without having to roll my front fenders. The SPC pulls the top in vs the J's which pushes the bottom out. I went to a local machine shop and got the SPC's pushed in for about 35 bucks for both. Took him literally 3 minutes.

I run 17x9 +63 wheels with 255/40's. 2.7 degrees negative camber and I don't rub at all... and I'm low... very low.

 

a) they charge another $150 for them
b) you could make them yourself If you needed them
c) you can get more then -3.0 degrees of camber with the s1's
d) theirs no need for them

 

how low is "low low" lower then 24.5 (ground to fender) all the way around? I'm gonna try to go 24.25 all the way around but fearing I rub the liner out

 

What about purely for the sake of adjusting the roll center? Admitedly, I don't understand the concept completely, but from what gather, at oem height, the suspension was designed with a given roll center. Significantly lowering a car will change the roll center, specifically, increasing the distance between the CG and roll center. If not corrected, doesn't this mean more roll? Or is the difference not enough for the driver to feel.