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SPC Camber Joint vs J's Racing S1

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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 11:55 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by modMonkey
Curious as well.

He said he ran them for 45 minutes on the track at a practice session, and the car drove like crap. He said the ball and socket part was worn out like it had been on the car for 100,000 miles and was very loose. They were brand new that day, and he never asked J's about it, he just stopped using them and switched to the SPC part.
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 12:35 PM
  #32  
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hmm thats intersting, i know many ppl on js and nothing like this has happened. maybe it was just a defective joint?
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 04:23 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by josh7owens
a) they charge another $150 for them
b) you could make them yourself If you needed them
c) you can get more then -3.0 degrees of camber with the s1's
d) theirs no need for them
Originally Posted by modMonkey
What about purely for the sake of adjusting the roll center? Admitedly, I don't understand the concept completely, but from what gather, at oem height, the suspension was designed with a given roll center. Significantly lowering a car will change the roll center, specifically, increasing the distance between the CG and roll center. If not corrected, doesn't this mean more roll? Or is the difference not enough for the driver to feel.
curious as well. josh, why did you say in d) that there is no need for the spacer?--are you saying it does not actually correct roll center, or is detrimental in some way?
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 04:49 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Orpheus
curious as well. josh, why did you say in d) that there is no need for the spacer?--are you saying it does not actually correct roll center, or is detrimental in some way?

it very well might correct the roll centers on cars that are lowered more then 40mm. If you absolutly feel you need the extra plate save yourself $150 and make them. In STR (autocross class) we arn't allowed to have the s2, just the s1. If you do go with the s2 or make your own buy the 20mm rear one from j's racing also. We arn't allowed to run them in my autocross class but from what a local said it really helped out on settling down the rear. A thing to keep in mind though, If you go with the s2 you may not be able to fit 16" wheels on your car if you ever choose to. Due to the fact it will lower the ball joint closer to the wheel.
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 06:30 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by josh7owens
In STR (autocross class) we arn't allowed to have the s2, just the s1. If you do go with the s2 or make your own buy the 20mm rear one from j's racing also.
The S2s are legal. The "L" series are not allowed.
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 04:29 AM
  #36  
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I noticed some hard race camber joints on ebay the other day. They are selling for around $200 with the plate.
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 09:44 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by LickyMYwalker
hmm thats intersting, i know many ppl on js and nothing like this has happened. maybe it was just a defective joint?
I only have SPC joints because of my experience with the J's joint. The one with the shim to "adjust roll center" makes the car handle and turn in like crap. If you purchase one I recommend the one without the shim, I ended up removing mine.

No problems with the SPC thus far, I find it very hard to claim one is "better" than the other here. Both are good products (coming from someone who's had both)
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 10:49 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Squirtle
I only have SPC joints because of my experience with the J's joint. The one with the shim to "adjust roll center" makes the car handle and turn in like crap. If you purchase one I recommend the one without the shim, I ended up removing mine.

No problems with the SPC thus far, I find it very hard to claim one is "better" than the other here. Both are good products (coming from someone who's had both)

Correct me if I'm wrong here but the way I see it if you lower your car to the point that the roll center is below ground and you use the spacer/shim to correct this issue you may have inadvertently caused a bump-steer issue. Because the relationship of the rack and spindle have changed. I bet that a bump-steer kit or raising the rack would take care of this.
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 10:56 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by ebdavis
Correct me if I'm wrong here but the way I see it if you lower your car to the point that the roll center is below ground and you use the spacer/shim to correct this issue you may have inadvertently caused a bump-steer issue. Because the relationship of the rack and spindle have changed. I bet that a bump-steer kit or raising the rack would take care of this.
Yes. You can't change the Roll Center with merely a shim. That is why the labelling of the joint is somewhat off if one is to consider it an "RCA"/camber joint.

Easier correction is to just remove the shim. lol.
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 01:56 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by josh7owens
how low is "low low" lower then 24.5 (ground to fender) all the way around? I'm gonna try to go 24.25 all the way around but fearing I rub the liner out
Ok, not as low as I thought. I'm on fresh rubber... which of course raises the distance from ground to fender and I'm at 24"7/8th. I can't imagine going any lower. I have wear in my outside fender well, and an area where I've rubbed off some undercoating on the inside fender. I don't rub control arms or anything though.

I've never had SPC's move out of spec.
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