splitter mounting
#35
Thread Starter
Anyone have any idea how long material needs to be to reach an air dam around the front bumper? I was thinking about stopping by a metal supply shop today if I have time.
#36
#37
I was inspired by the Speed Academy mounting. 4x 3/8" T6 Aluminum bars going to the frame rails down to 1/4" T6 Angle that's mounted to the splitter. 3/8" bars coming off the lower welded headlight support brackets down to 1/4" angles. Made a few extra 45 degree braces that went to the frame rails. Rear of my splitter goes back to the subframe stopping 3/4" in front of the oil pan. I put two rivet nuts in two drain holes in the subframe to fasten the rear of the splitter. I went with a 4" extension from the leading edge of my bumper/lip. I put a bulb type weather seal and it compresses to seal up the area when the bumper fasteners go in. I use Turnbuckles that are part cables to allow the splitter to flex upward when it contacts the ground without breaking like a solid support would but it still is solid on downward force. It supports my weight standing or hanging from.
I went with polymetal sign material. It's a solid thermoplastic sandwiched in between two sheets of aluminum. I paid $80 for a 4'x8' x 7mm panel of it. I was originally going to get dibond in 4mm thickness but 7mm seemed more robust. It is, but it may be heavier than necessary. It's reasonable once you cut away everything you don't use but 4mm dibond would have probably been ok. I didn't use alumalite since the plastic core is corrugated.
I went with polymetal sign material. It's a solid thermoplastic sandwiched in between two sheets of aluminum. I paid $80 for a 4'x8' x 7mm panel of it. I was originally going to get dibond in 4mm thickness but 7mm seemed more robust. It is, but it may be heavier than necessary. It's reasonable once you cut away everything you don't use but 4mm dibond would have probably been ok. I didn't use alumalite since the plastic core is corrugated.
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RussianHammer (03-23-2017)