View Poll Results: What differential do you use?
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STR Prep - Differential Discussion
02-08-2012, 06:17 PM
#72
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I appreciate any discussion concerning differentials on these cars, it seems to be one of the least discussed topics for the S2K.
Side note* Congrats on the season opening CTSCC win Billy.
Side note* Congrats on the season opening CTSCC win Billy.
02-08-2012, 06:32 PM
#73
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02-08-2012, 07:13 PM
#74
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After watching Matt’s video I'm very intested in a diff. I just don't know if I'm interested in spending $500 on a spare diff, $1600 on the LSD, and then another $200ish (however much puddydog charges? anyone know?) for install. Plus the whole to by a 1.5 or 2 way.
Over $4000 worth maintenance, sway bars, shock repair/rebuild in the last two months has eaten up my "offseason autocross mod funds." I'm not that interested in trying to spend another couple grand before the season starts. Anyone want to buy me a diff?
If I can just settle down the rear of my car without making it too pushy on corner entry I'll be happy. It's typically pretty "fast" as it is now besides I feel like I'm catching the rear end a lot during corner exit when I try to get on the gas. I only ran 1/8" total rear toe last year due to a rear seized bolt that I didn't want to fix midseason because of downtime and cost. Since my set-up resembled a lot of the top national winners besides they ran twice the rear toe I did. I'm hoping going to 1/4 inch or so rear toe will fix the loose rear-end. I'm also thinking my rebound was possibly way too high last season. I haven't got my shock dynos back yet but I was at the top of my adjustment range with rebound (12/14F, 10/14R) and in the 0-3 second range it might have been really aggressive compared to the mid-range shock dyno I got. I'll know sooner if James ever finishes my freaking shocks. PM me if anyone has anytips on how to settle the car down on corner exit but not upset the turn in.
Somewhat like how Matts shocks during rebound go from soft- alittle stiffer- alittle stiff- holly shit stiff.
Sorry for the lenthy rant. I'm taking a break from studying.
Matt- So you’re actually toeing out past 0 in the rear on rebound during braking/off throttle/turn in now? If do the test and tune that morning with Andy in Blytheville I’d like to swap cars again and see how this rear diff feels. Or at least give me a ride in it even though it’s hard to sense how a car feels by riding. I’ve got a new OEM clutch for my car so no more clutch issues like last TnT in Blytheville.
Over $4000 worth maintenance, sway bars, shock repair/rebuild in the last two months has eaten up my "offseason autocross mod funds." I'm not that interested in trying to spend another couple grand before the season starts. Anyone want to buy me a diff?
If I can just settle down the rear of my car without making it too pushy on corner entry I'll be happy. It's typically pretty "fast" as it is now besides I feel like I'm catching the rear end a lot during corner exit when I try to get on the gas. I only ran 1/8" total rear toe last year due to a rear seized bolt that I didn't want to fix midseason because of downtime and cost. Since my set-up resembled a lot of the top national winners besides they ran twice the rear toe I did. I'm hoping going to 1/4 inch or so rear toe will fix the loose rear-end. I'm also thinking my rebound was possibly way too high last season. I haven't got my shock dynos back yet but I was at the top of my adjustment range with rebound (12/14F, 10/14R) and in the 0-3 second range it might have been really aggressive compared to the mid-range shock dyno I got. I'll know sooner if James ever finishes my freaking shocks. PM me if anyone has anytips on how to settle the car down on corner exit but not upset the turn in.
Somewhat like how Matts shocks during rebound go from soft- alittle stiffer- alittle stiff- holly shit stiff.
Sorry for the lenthy rant. I'm taking a break from studying.
Matt- So you’re actually toeing out past 0 in the rear on rebound during braking/off throttle/turn in now? If do the test and tune that morning with Andy in Blytheville I’d like to swap cars again and see how this rear diff feels. Or at least give me a ride in it even though it’s hard to sense how a car feels by riding. I’ve got a new OEM clutch for my car so no more clutch issues like last TnT in Blytheville.
02-08-2012, 09:08 PM
#75
After watching Matt’s video I'm very intested in a diff. I just don't know if I'm interested in spending $500 on a spare diff, $1600 on the LSD, and then another $200ish (however much puddydog charges? anyone know?) for install. Plus the whole to by a 1.5 or 2 way.
Over $4000 worth maintenance, sway bars, shock repair/rebuild in the last two months has eaten up my "offseason autocross mod funds." I'm not that interested in trying to spend another couple grand before the season starts. Anyone want to buy me a diff?
If I can just settle down the rear of my car without making it too pushy on corner entry I'll be happy. It's typically pretty "fast" as it is now besides I feel like I'm catching the rear end a lot during corner exit when I try to get on the gas. I only ran 1/8" total rear toe last year due to a rear seized bolt that I didn't want to fix midseason because of downtime and cost. Since my set-up resembled a lot of the top national winners besides they ran twice the rear toe I did. I'm hoping going to 1/4 inch or so rear toe will fix the loose rear-end. I'm also thinking my rebound was possibly way too high last season. I haven't got my shock dynos back yet but I was at the top of my adjustment range with rebound (12/14F, 10/14R) and in the 0-3 second range it might have been really aggressive compared to the mid-range shock dyno I got. I'll know sooner if James ever finishes my freaking shocks. PM me if anyone has anytips on how to settle the car down on corner exit but not upset the turn in.
Over $4000 worth maintenance, sway bars, shock repair/rebuild in the last two months has eaten up my "offseason autocross mod funds." I'm not that interested in trying to spend another couple grand before the season starts. Anyone want to buy me a diff?
If I can just settle down the rear of my car without making it too pushy on corner entry I'll be happy. It's typically pretty "fast" as it is now besides I feel like I'm catching the rear end a lot during corner exit when I try to get on the gas. I only ran 1/8" total rear toe last year due to a rear seized bolt that I didn't want to fix midseason because of downtime and cost. Since my set-up resembled a lot of the top national winners besides they ran twice the rear toe I did. I'm hoping going to 1/4 inch or so rear toe will fix the loose rear-end. I'm also thinking my rebound was possibly way too high last season. I haven't got my shock dynos back yet but I was at the top of my adjustment range with rebound (12/14F, 10/14R) and in the 0-3 second range it might have been really aggressive compared to the mid-range shock dyno I got. I'll know sooner if James ever finishes my freaking shocks. PM me if anyone has anytips on how to settle the car down on corner exit but not upset the turn in.
Get fresh tires, accurate alignment, and enter a test n tune. Ive used this chart to help setup the car numerous times, the only thing you need to do is be willing to make the changes instead of sticking to what you "think" works. The chart will point you in the right direction.
02-09-2012, 05:23 AM
#77
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Hey guys, that chart is dangerous - it's designed for completely different chassis with a different weight distribution, suspension design, and power delivery. a couple of things to note.
1)On under steer, if your car is pushing in the slow stuff, but not pushing in the fast stuff, more caster will make things worse not better. It's also easier to change a sway bar setting than an alignment setting.
2) our alignment is very easy to adjust for testing and this can have dramatic effects on changing the car's character in the desired phase. At a TNT, I'd start here if the math/science says you have the right roll rate. bracket testing toe and caster settings can be done easily with a set of toe plates and a tape measure.
1)On under steer, if your car is pushing in the slow stuff, but not pushing in the fast stuff, more caster will make things worse not better. It's also easier to change a sway bar setting than an alignment setting.
2) our alignment is very easy to adjust for testing and this can have dramatic effects on changing the car's character in the desired phase. At a TNT, I'd start here if the math/science says you have the right roll rate. bracket testing toe and caster settings can be done easily with a set of toe plates and a tape measure.
02-09-2012, 08:49 AM
#78
It's a general chart and most of the adjustment recommendations is true. Of course when it comes to mid to low speed understeer I would flip the recommendation and go straight to ride height change. This chart is found in many setup sites, I just like the way the BMW guys organized it.
02-15-2012, 09:58 AM
#80
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All of this talk of improved corner exit and slaloming stability has stirred my interest in a clutched limited slip.
Out of curiosity, has anyone here tried the Spoon or J's Racing 1.5way limited slip diffs? Their pricing is actually quite reasonable.
Based on the tuning options of the OSGiken, it's still on the top of my "want" list.
Out of curiosity, has anyone here tried the Spoon or J's Racing 1.5way limited slip diffs? Their pricing is actually quite reasonable.
Based on the tuning options of the OSGiken, it's still on the top of my "want" list.