View Poll Results: What brand of shocks do you use?
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STR Prep - Shock / Damper and Springs Discussion
#101
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Thanks for the sheet man. It looks complex I'll play with it tonight at work. Have you tried to see what spring combination comes up with the highest mechanical grip numbers? If so what did it say?
As for running softer springs, I get the logic to it but it's very wierd all the top guys at nationals had springs in the 700-900 range. I think it has to do with how fast you can get the car to transfer wieght when trying to get through elements. A soft car requires you to "wait of it." while a stiff car you can steer right through the elements without the need of waiting for the car to transition. I think once lowered the roll centers get changed and require more spring to keep the roll in check. Hens the need for stiff springs.
With a set-up as soft as yours I'm not sure I could get the car through the elements as quickly as if I had a stiffer set-up. I feel I would have to watch my speed based on transition speeds of the car to govern how fast I can get the car through that element. On a stiff set-up you can just put the pedal to the floor and steer through. Of-course on sweepers you give up alittle.
As for running softer springs, I get the logic to it but it's very wierd all the top guys at nationals had springs in the 700-900 range. I think it has to do with how fast you can get the car to transfer wieght when trying to get through elements. A soft car requires you to "wait of it." while a stiff car you can steer right through the elements without the need of waiting for the car to transition. I think once lowered the roll centers get changed and require more spring to keep the roll in check. Hens the need for stiff springs.
With a set-up as soft as yours I'm not sure I could get the car through the elements as quickly as if I had a stiffer set-up. I feel I would have to watch my speed based on transition speeds of the car to govern how fast I can get the car through that element. On a stiff set-up you can just put the pedal to the floor and steer through. Of-course on sweepers you give up alittle.
#102
BTW, a car that's quick to transfer weight takes SLOOOOOW hands so if your hands are jabby, a softer car will be easier to get around the course. Additionally, I'd prefer to have a softer car on a sweeper course and a stiffer one on a Roger Johnson course. I guess some low speed compression with lots of adjustment would be a possible answer to this dilemma.
Just random Friday reflections that could be highly subjective. I'm stoked to go run Dixie on Sunday. 60* should be fairly similar to the March event.
Just random Friday reflections that could be highly subjective. I'm stoked to go run Dixie on Sunday. 60* should be fairly similar to the March event.
#103
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Post fail! I was typing mine on my iPhone and after I posted I went back to see if anyone posted during the time I was typing. It's funny our post said the same exact thing. Haha.
I myself and I'd guess 75% of the rest of the people that run STR don't really care about how soft it rides. They just want it to be as fast as possible. If that means bad ride quality so be it. My car rides great with 900 lbs front springs. I also have the rebound to keep it in check though.
I'd venture to think a 2.3-2.5hz range would be good. I'm in the 2.7F-2.5R range. The 2.7 makes me alittle nervous and makes me wonder if I should bring it down to 2.6ish but it was proven to work at nationals in many cars.
Granted I do realize I'm giving up some on slick, bumpy sites. The question is more of "where do you wanna be fast." I myself want to be fast at Blytheville, Nationals and other national races even though I only run a few each year.
I should prolly run in the 800f/700 rear range but we'll see. I'm very interested in seeing how you like the stiffer rear spring. The logic is their but I feel the s2k isn't your typical car to balance.
I wonder if the soft sidewalks of the kooks result to us trying to make up the roll caused from tire deformation with stiffer springs.
Shoot me a pm or email and I'll send it to you. I'm on my phone and Not around the computer to go look your email up on my pms.
I myself and I'd guess 75% of the rest of the people that run STR don't really care about how soft it rides. They just want it to be as fast as possible. If that means bad ride quality so be it. My car rides great with 900 lbs front springs. I also have the rebound to keep it in check though.
I'd venture to think a 2.3-2.5hz range would be good. I'm in the 2.7F-2.5R range. The 2.7 makes me alittle nervous and makes me wonder if I should bring it down to 2.6ish but it was proven to work at nationals in many cars.
Granted I do realize I'm giving up some on slick, bumpy sites. The question is more of "where do you wanna be fast." I myself want to be fast at Blytheville, Nationals and other national races even though I only run a few each year.
I should prolly run in the 800f/700 rear range but we'll see. I'm very interested in seeing how you like the stiffer rear spring. The logic is their but I feel the s2k isn't your typical car to balance.
I wonder if the soft sidewalks of the kooks result to us trying to make up the roll caused from tire deformation with stiffer springs.
Shoot me a pm or email and I'll send it to you. I'm on my phone and Not around the computer to go look your email up on my pms.
#104
Originally Posted by dnace' timestamp='1326479230' post='21314372
interesting I didn't realize most guys were there I am aroung 2.1 front and back right now. I am considering bringing the front down to around 2 and the rear to arouns 2.2ish
Good info on the RS3s 1.1 was what I had heard. Good to know I was conservative so I could be more agressive.
I think the big reason is everyone wants to have such insanely low ride heights.
Me personally, I'm more on the same page as you at this point, I want to try going much lower closer to 2 hz. Partially because it's my (and my girlfriend's) daily driver. And partially since I think it'll help mechanical grip. It'll be a little harder to drive though, you don't have that razor sharp precision. We'll see how it goes.
Thanks for the sheet man. It looks complex I'll play with it tonight at work. Have you tried to see what spring combination comes up with the highest mechanical grip numbers? If so what did it say?
As for running softer springs, I get the logic to it but it's very wierd all the top guys at nationals had springs in the 700-900 range. I think it has to do with how fast you can get the car to transfer wieght when trying to get through elements. A soft car requires you to "wait of it." while a stiff car you can steer right through the elements without the need of waiting for the car to transition. I think once lowered the roll centers get changed and require more spring to keep the roll in check. Hens the need for stiff springs.
With a set-up as soft as yours I'm not sure I could get the car through the elements as quickly as if I had a stiffer set-up. I feel I would have to watch my speed based on transition speeds of the car to govern how fast I can get the car through that element. On a stiff set-up you can just put the pedal to the floor and steer through. Of-course on sweepers you give up alittle.
As for running softer springs, I get the logic to it but it's very wierd all the top guys at nationals had springs in the 700-900 range. I think it has to do with how fast you can get the car to transfer wieght when trying to get through elements. A soft car requires you to "wait of it." while a stiff car you can steer right through the elements without the need of waiting for the car to transition. I think once lowered the roll centers get changed and require more spring to keep the roll in check. Hens the need for stiff springs.
With a set-up as soft as yours I'm not sure I could get the car through the elements as quickly as if I had a stiffer set-up. I feel I would have to watch my speed based on transition speeds of the car to govern how fast I can get the car through that element. On a stiff set-up you can just put the pedal to the floor and steer through. Of-course on sweepers you give up alittle.
we will see I am excited to find this out. it may not work though.
#106
Mark just installed Moton Club Sport on the new car. Whoot!!!
With the changes we are doing with the swaybars, we tweaked the spring rates a little and went with 850F/350R. Unfortunately, by the time we were done, there was 1-3" of snow on the roads, so I was just happy to get the car home without wrecking.
-D
With the changes we are doing with the swaybars, we tweaked the spring rates a little and went with 850F/350R. Unfortunately, by the time we were done, there was 1-3" of snow on the roads, so I was just happy to get the car home without wrecking.
-D
#107
#108
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Is it better for handling to increase low speed bump and decrease spring rate or run "little" low speed bump and increase spring rate?
Better is in reference to increasing roll stiffness for fast transitions while also maintaining maximum mechanical grip.
Better is in reference to increasing roll stiffness for fast transitions while also maintaining maximum mechanical grip.
#110
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he might be able to help out with the S2000 shocks.
I heard it is much better if you call him rather than email.
BTW, I really like my KW Clubsports with 700/650 rates now after driving it for one event over the weekend. With the Gendron 1.25"/.25 bar on full stiff = a little pushy but I bet the front bar on 5 of 6 is really nice. Will try in next event!
Also, I measured and there is no need for bump stops on there rear shocks with 5.5" 650s (Hyperco) and the helper springs still there. No need for those extended top hats like you are/were trying to run. The spring will compress solid and before the shock body will be able to hit the top mount. about 0.75" clearance (technically you can still leave a 1" bump stop in there and be just fine I guess but I took mine out so I can see how far the shock is actually compressing with zipties. Clearance will change from spring to spring though but it appears you could probably run a 7" spring and still be fine without a bump stop.
I'm thinking about swapping to an OEM rear top hat on the rear suspension though to get a little more cushion for DD. I'll likely throw a 3/4 to 1" bump stop back in there for extra security once I know it doesn't interfere with typicaly AutoX driving.