Do you have any idea where it world be located in the service manual? I can look it up

 

I have the manual, so I have the stock measurements. I'm trying to get a feel for how the common hub-to-fender measurements equate with floor-to-aignment bolt measurements. In other words: 12.5 inches hub-to-fender = X floor to front alignment bolt and y to the rear bolt.

 

No clue

 

If anyone measures this they should specify what wheels and tires they have plus the measurement from the floor to the center of the hub or floor to metal fender edge. I will measure tomorrow if I can remember.

 

Complete list of all the part numbers for replacing every suspension bolt for us high mileage guys...



edit- Minus the two items that I ordered only a quanity of 1. These two bolts go else where.

 

Quick question....if I don't have camber joints up front (yet) and I'm going to have the car realigned should I go for max camber and sacrifice caster to get there or max caster first and then see how much camber I can get. Currently the car is at -2.8 up front but caster is a hair below factory spec. I know from my previous s2k when we ended up going for more caster I could only get -2.5 up front. Which is better?

 

Max camber. I did a test last time I got the car aligned. We set the caster to 5.3* and the camber to -3*. At 10* of wheel turning, the camber was -3.8* so that was a gain of -.8*. Then we set the caster to 4.3* and left the camber at -3*. At 10* of wheel turning, the camber was at -3.6*. So 1 whole less degree of caster only had a .2* effect on the camber seen at the wheel at 10* of turning.

 

^hmm. I need the camber while turning so wouldn't it be better that I can essentially run more caster and less camber and when the wheel is turned I get the camber gain I need to make full use of the tire? I'd think the less camber setup would also give you a slightly edge in braking. No? I'm no expert just trying to think it all through in my head.

 

I think we're splitting hairs here. How much more caster can you get by limiting your camber or vice versa? -2* isn't much and it's less than anyone runs so you are already behind the curve on that one. What I'm trying to say is that I think you'll sacrifice more overall camber if you shoot for max caster and that large changes in caster are small changes at the wheel whereas any change in camber is more direct.

Ultimately, you'll have to look at your tires to see what they want except that toe can mislead you by putting undo wear on the inner portion of the tread.

 

Just an FYI and observations. Many of us with koni's or similar modified the OEM mounts for use with 2.5" springs. Everything seats pretty well, but I noticed this winter that the top rubber insert inside the top hat was very deformed from the spring. Doesn't seem to hold up to high rates and daily driving.

I only check my rear's so far and they were both messed up. I'm assuming the fronts are the same or worse.