Unwind and slow roll on throttle?

 

Yea... I was thinking about the effects of high caster numbers during a high steering angle turn adding more grip to the front. In return causing the rear to be loose.

 

Awesome! Now I definitely will not be afraid to lower the rear end this weekend b/t runs to test what others say is a more stable corner exit setup with the suspension at even height and or slightly lower rear. I have about 0.3" to play with so we'll see what happens.

 

Wow, that's really interesting. Thanks for posting the results of the testing.

I wouldn't say that zero bump steer necessarily makes a car "stable". It just makes it less dynamic.

 

I think of it as more of a abrubt turn moment which changes the weight transfer and contact patch of the rear tire(S) more drastically than it does the fronts.

 

Soo, does anyone know of a source for ball joint boot replacements for the J's racing ball joints? The stock style does not work since there is not a groove for the circlip.

 

Do you guys re-align after making ride height adjustments? Say lowering or raising height by 0.25"-0.5", do you need to re-align the car?

 

Yes.

Edit: Or at least check it, get some toe plates and a digital level. The alignment will change but it's possible it'll still be OK for you if you only change ride height a little.

 

Jon, what has your experience been in how far it changes from small adjustments?

I see people mentioning making ride height adjustments at events as a tuning tool, ie lower/raise rear to tune oversteer. For folks who make those adjusments, have you checked how far it throws the alignment off, and do you get an alignment each time or check it?

 

You need some tools that will give you repeatable readings. The actual measurements are irrelevant, but the delta is very important so that when you go to a TNT, if you want to make a change, you can get an idea of how the magnitude of an adjustment affects the handling characteristics of your car.

Bolded for emphasis. While other people's experience with adjustments is useful, and there is lots of discussion across the STR threads about people's observations and experiences with setting up these cars, the only way to go fast is to respond to the feedback your car gives you and to know how to adapt both the car, and your body to what you're experiencing on course.

The point is that the alignment is irrelevant. You could go out there with a car that is relatively square, and that is really all you need for a base line for setting up the car's alignment.

You also need two different skid pads. A Skid pad for optimizing mid-phase grip, and a skid oval to tune entry and exit.

Done.