STR Prep - Weight Reduction
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 47
Likes: 1
From: Idaho
Out of curiosity, are there any other random plastic covers in the engine bay that we can get away with legally removing? The fuse box covers maybe? 
Does the tall black heat shield next to the header have to stay in the car for STR prep?
Outside of using exhaust and intake mods to drop weight, I was thinking that I could empty out the washer fluid reservoir, pull out the floor mats, and maybe find a lighter battery. Are there any batteries in particular that you guys use during the racing season? Odyssey? Deka?
Edit:
I think I may give the Deka ETX16 or ETX14 a shot. I will probably only use it in the car during our normal racing season, so March through October. I do drive daily about 30 miles, so I'm not sure if I need a trickle/maintenance charger or not.
Does the tall black heat shield next to the header have to stay in the car for STR prep?Outside of using exhaust and intake mods to drop weight, I was thinking that I could empty out the washer fluid reservoir, pull out the floor mats, and maybe find a lighter battery. Are there any batteries in particular that you guys use during the racing season? Odyssey? Deka?
Edit:
I think I may give the Deka ETX16 or ETX14 a shot. I will probably only use it in the car during our normal racing season, so March through October. I do drive daily about 30 miles, so I'm not sure if I need a trickle/maintenance charger or not.
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 685
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by Random1' timestamp='1330500584' post='21461652
I've been running a new light weight (3.5 lbs) battery for almost three weeks in my daily driver...
Ballistic EVO2 16 cell 3.5 pound lithium ferrous battery. This saves about 24 lbs over the Interstate OEM sized battery that was in the car. Cost $240 plus $15 for brass posts with 6M bolts. It was mounted using the stock battery mount system with shorter tie down rods. The brass terminal posts had to be shaped (squared off) to fit within the plastic guard around the terminals.
snip...
Stats from Ballistic
I daily drive with this and left the car at the airport for a week. No issues with cranking and starting. The only notable observation was some hesitation when it was cold out, the temperature was down around 32F, but still no issue starting.
Charging this battery does not require anything special. There is a five pin special connector to be used with a $80 special battery charger which conditions the cells with the claim of increasing the life span. Here's a link to more information regarding the charger.
snip...
Anyone else using one of these?
Ballistic EVO2 16 cell 3.5 pound lithium ferrous battery. This saves about 24 lbs over the Interstate OEM sized battery that was in the car. Cost $240 plus $15 for brass posts with 6M bolts. It was mounted using the stock battery mount system with shorter tie down rods. The brass terminal posts had to be shaped (squared off) to fit within the plastic guard around the terminals.
snip...
Stats from Ballistic
- Dimensions (Metric): 114MM (L) x 114MM (W) x 112MM (H)
- Dimensions (Standard): 4.5" (L) x 4.5" (W) x 4.25" (H)
- Negative Terminal Location: Left
- Weight: 1611 grams (3.5 lb)
- Voltage (Charged): 13.6V
- Amperage: 28 Pb-eq A/H
- Pulse Cranking Amps: 500 CCA
- Operating Environment: -18°C (0°F) to 60°C (140°F)
I daily drive with this and left the car at the airport for a week. No issues with cranking and starting. The only notable observation was some hesitation when it was cold out, the temperature was down around 32F, but still no issue starting.
Charging this battery does not require anything special. There is a five pin special connector to be used with a $80 special battery charger which conditions the cells with the claim of increasing the life span. Here's a link to more information regarding the charger.
snip...
Anyone else using one of these?
I went out Saturday (6/30/12) to start the car and it was completely dead. Measured 2 volts at the terminals installed and 2.5 volts out of the car. My purchase date was 2/4/12, so within the six month free replacement time frame. I was really disappointed that this battery died as it worked flawlessly up until that point.
A phone call to Ballistic on Monday resulted in a free replacement being shipped with no questions asked. Jeffre Vascoe the President of Ballistic handled the call. After that was settled we did talk about how I was using the battery and he indicated that the design does not work with slow drain parasitic loads such as an ECU or similar (i.e. an alarm). He said they are coming out with a new battery design in about three months that will work in cars. The best application of the current design is for high current starting applications such as quads or other equipment that does not have parasitic loads.
Did you ever get any updates to their new design? I don't see any batteries on their website meant for cars.
But then again I don't think the Shorai ones are either and people have been running those in their S2k's I believe without issues.
Thnx
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 558
Likes: 24
From: littleton, CO
Originally Posted by josh7owens' timestamp='1333160926' post='21561554
plastic cover-
Does the tall black heat shield next to the header have to stay in the car for STR prep?Outside of using exhaust and intake mods to drop weight, I was thinking that I could empty out the washer fluid reservoir, pull out the floor mats, and maybe find a lighter battery. Are there any batteries in particular that you guys use during the racing season? Odyssey? Deka?
Edit:
I think I may give the Deka ETX16 or ETX14 a shot. I will probably only use it in the car during our normal racing season, so March through October. I do drive daily about 30 miles, so I'm not sure if I need a trickle/maintenance charger or not.
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 685
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by HeroOfTheDay' timestamp='1355099534' post='22199766
[quote name='josh7owens' timestamp='1333160926' post='21561554']
plastic cover-
plastic cover-
Does the tall black heat shield next to the header have to stay in the car for STR prep?Outside of using exhaust and intake mods to drop weight, I was thinking that I could empty out the washer fluid reservoir, pull out the floor mats, and maybe find a lighter battery. Are there any batteries in particular that you guys use during the racing season? Odyssey? Deka?
Edit:
I think I may give the Deka ETX16 or ETX14 a shot. I will probably only use it in the car during our normal racing season, so March through October. I do drive daily about 30 miles, so I'm not sure if I need a trickle/maintenance charger or not.
[/quote]
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,881
Likes: 6
From: Near Philadelphia
Originally Posted by josh7owens' timestamp='1333160926' post='21561554
plastic cover-
Does the tall black heat shield next to the header have to stay in the car for STR prep?Outside of using exhaust and intake mods to drop weight, I was thinking that I could empty out the washer fluid reservoir, pull out the floor mats, and maybe find a lighter battery. Are there any batteries in particular that you guys use during the racing season? Odyssey? Deka?
Edit:
I think I may give the Deka ETX16 or ETX14 a shot. I will probably only use it in the car during our normal racing season, so March through October. I do drive daily about 30 miles, so I'm not sure if I need a trickle/maintenance charger or not.
Emptying out washer fluid is fine, as for floor mats....I thought it was required to not have floor mats to pass tech?
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,531
Likes: 3
From: Tucson
Originally Posted by Random1' timestamp='1341455832' post='21834682
[quote name='Random1' timestamp='1330500584' post='21461652']
I've been running a new light weight (3.5 lbs) battery for almost three weeks in my daily driver...
Ballistic EVO2 16 cell 3.5 pound lithium ferrous battery. This saves about 24 lbs over the Interstate OEM sized battery that was in the car. Cost $240 plus $15 for brass posts with 6M bolts. It was mounted using the stock battery mount system with shorter tie down rods. The brass terminal posts had to be shaped (squared off) to fit within the plastic guard around the terminals.
snip...
Stats from Ballistic
I daily drive with this and left the car at the airport for a week. No issues with cranking and starting. The only notable observation was some hesitation when it was cold out, the temperature was down around 32F, but still no issue starting.
Charging this battery does not require anything special. There is a five pin special connector to be used with a $80 special battery charger which conditions the cells with the claim of increasing the life span. Here's a link to more information regarding the charger.
snip...
Anyone else using one of these?
I've been running a new light weight (3.5 lbs) battery for almost three weeks in my daily driver...
Ballistic EVO2 16 cell 3.5 pound lithium ferrous battery. This saves about 24 lbs over the Interstate OEM sized battery that was in the car. Cost $240 plus $15 for brass posts with 6M bolts. It was mounted using the stock battery mount system with shorter tie down rods. The brass terminal posts had to be shaped (squared off) to fit within the plastic guard around the terminals.
snip...
Stats from Ballistic
- Dimensions (Metric): 114MM (L) x 114MM (W) x 112MM (H)
- Dimensions (Standard): 4.5" (L) x 4.5" (W) x 4.25" (H)
- Negative Terminal Location: Left
- Weight: 1611 grams (3.5 lb)
- Voltage (Charged): 13.6V
- Amperage: 28 Pb-eq A/H
- Pulse Cranking Amps: 500 CCA
- Operating Environment: -18°C (0°F) to 60°C (140°F)
I daily drive with this and left the car at the airport for a week. No issues with cranking and starting. The only notable observation was some hesitation when it was cold out, the temperature was down around 32F, but still no issue starting.
Charging this battery does not require anything special. There is a five pin special connector to be used with a $80 special battery charger which conditions the cells with the claim of increasing the life span. Here's a link to more information regarding the charger.
snip...
Anyone else using one of these?
I went out Saturday (6/30/12) to start the car and it was completely dead. Measured 2 volts at the terminals installed and 2.5 volts out of the car. My purchase date was 2/4/12, so within the six month free replacement time frame. I was really disappointed that this battery died as it worked flawlessly up until that point.
A phone call to Ballistic on Monday resulted in a free replacement being shipped with no questions asked. Jeffre Vascoe the President of Ballistic handled the call. After that was settled we did talk about how I was using the battery and he indicated that the design does not work with slow drain parasitic loads such as an ECU or similar (i.e. an alarm). He said they are coming out with a new battery design in about three months that will work in cars. The best application of the current design is for high current starting applications such as quads or other equipment that does not have parasitic loads.
Did you ever get any updates to their new design? I don't see any batteries on their website meant for cars.
But then again I don't think the Shorai ones are either and people have been running those in their S2k's I believe without issues.
Thnx
[/quote]
I had an issue with the ballistic that turned out not to be a problem after my friend put in on the special ballistic charger/conditioner. By the time that happened I had already bought a Shrai battery, so I sold the ballistic.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 47
Likes: 1
From: Idaho
Good to hear on the ETX14. Thanks for the feedback guys.
I was told that the floor mats could stay in place if they were secured, and I still have the little OEM tabs. I haven't actually read that portion of the rule-book though. I left them in to keep the carpet clean, but now I'm focusing on losing weight and competing at divisionals.
I was told that the floor mats could stay in place if they were secured, and I still have the little OEM tabs. I haven't actually read that portion of the rule-book though. I left them in to keep the carpet clean, but now I'm focusing on losing weight and competing at divisionals.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,376
Likes: 2
Pics & description of my seat install:
I wanted to keep the OE sliders. They're strong, have latches on both sides and I don't need to slam my seat to the floor (I'm only 5'6"!). Plus, the cheaper rail options look like they're shit quality.
Upon further review of the OE seat assemblies, Honda pretty much used the standard 290mm side-mount hole spacing to mount the seats. The hinge brackets gets in the way, however, so you can't just unbolt the stock seats and bolt up a race seat...of course.
Stock seat rail:
There are 6 rivets you have to drill out on each side of the seat. If you ever want to reverse your handy work, you can just replace the rivets with 1/4"-20 fasteners and your factory seats will be back in working order. Once the rivets are punched out, the sliders come right off.
Fab up a couple of brackets that will allow you to attach the new seat to the sliders. I started with one plate on each side and chopped them down to save weight once all of the holes/slots were cut. There are four 1/4" thick AL brackets that span between my Sparco and the stock sliders. In total, they weight just under 1 lb.
Bracket weight:
Brackets installed:
Note that I have 1/4"-20 socket head cap screws in the center of the stock rails. They are used to fasten the original slider latch mechanism to the rail structure. The wire between the two sides also needs to be retained.
Wire between sides barely visible:
I used ~1/2" of washer thickness to get the width of the rails just right. I also positioned the seat slightly more towards the door. In the forward seating positions, the seat contacts the transmission tunnel quite a bit. The rearward positions do not have this issue.
I modified the factory lower harness attachment so that it bolts to one of my brackets. I positioned the latch so that it just pokes through the inside lower harness hole in the seat. Excuse the ugly MIG welds...didn't want to take the time to TIG it.
The Sparco Sprint V fits with room to spare, minus the trans tunnel issue in the forward seating position. No door rubbing or storage compartment issues.
The total seat weight with sliders is 27.5 lbs.
I wanted to keep the OE sliders. They're strong, have latches on both sides and I don't need to slam my seat to the floor (I'm only 5'6"!). Plus, the cheaper rail options look like they're shit quality.
Upon further review of the OE seat assemblies, Honda pretty much used the standard 290mm side-mount hole spacing to mount the seats. The hinge brackets gets in the way, however, so you can't just unbolt the stock seats and bolt up a race seat...of course.
Stock seat rail:
There are 6 rivets you have to drill out on each side of the seat. If you ever want to reverse your handy work, you can just replace the rivets with 1/4"-20 fasteners and your factory seats will be back in working order. Once the rivets are punched out, the sliders come right off.
Fab up a couple of brackets that will allow you to attach the new seat to the sliders. I started with one plate on each side and chopped them down to save weight once all of the holes/slots were cut. There are four 1/4" thick AL brackets that span between my Sparco and the stock sliders. In total, they weight just under 1 lb.
Bracket weight:
Brackets installed:
Note that I have 1/4"-20 socket head cap screws in the center of the stock rails. They are used to fasten the original slider latch mechanism to the rail structure. The wire between the two sides also needs to be retained.
Wire between sides barely visible:
I used ~1/2" of washer thickness to get the width of the rails just right. I also positioned the seat slightly more towards the door. In the forward seating positions, the seat contacts the transmission tunnel quite a bit. The rearward positions do not have this issue.
I modified the factory lower harness attachment so that it bolts to one of my brackets. I positioned the latch so that it just pokes through the inside lower harness hole in the seat. Excuse the ugly MIG welds...didn't want to take the time to TIG it.
The Sparco Sprint V fits with room to spare, minus the trans tunnel issue in the forward seating position. No door rubbing or storage compartment issues.
The total seat weight with sliders is 27.5 lbs.