gbuka

I know the process of switching/breaking-in new pads has been discussed ad nauseam, but yet I must know. Do I need new rotors or will the cold abrasive pads properly scrub the rotors and bed in correctly?

From the search I gather that switching OEM->Race or even Race->OEM is ok, as long as the pad material is similar. In this case, I'm switching from non-ceramic to ceramic pads, which made me stop and ask the question.

What have you guys found? Will the old rotors work well the new pads?

mikegarrison

Probably.

dojo_s4

I run xp10's and 8's in the rear and have had them for 3 full events (500+track miles) and love them.

I came from other compunds and see no need for new rotors unless you adhere to the following criteria:

1) you see the imprint of the rotor vane's from a couple feet away from the car (hence thin rotors).

2) you have measured the thickness of your rotors or have a pronounced lip that exists on the rotor and it's seen long term use.

3) Just follow the normal pad bedding and break in period and know that you'll need to provide ample transfer of material to the rotor and (just like the instr. says) do the recommended stops & repeat.

that should provide you with what you are looking for.

IF you WANT to replace the rotors you can and it's always good to put used pads on a new set of rotors to break in the rotors. FWIW.

hth's

D

mikegarrison

You can see mine from quite some distance, but the rotors are not thin. What you see is the temperature effect of the rotor cooling passages. I'm not sure if it is the metal or the pad material deposited on the metal that gets discolored, but one of them certainly does.

3312DC

you should ask Gfactor this question... he switched to these pads and they lasted less than 3 full track days

he used to have the VR-VX pads and im almost 100% sure hes using the same rotors

Ek9

I burned a set of XP10's up on another honda in 2 track sessions. Pulled off the dust shields as Carbo recommended and that problem went away. I was just cooking the shit out of them and didn't have enough airflow. I want 4 track days in a row a couple weeks ago and still have 1/2 the pad left. Gfactor was there. I wasn't dawdling around the track.

Do you guys still have your dust shields on the front?

gfacter

I only got 8 20 minute sessions out of the Xp-10 fronts and cracked a rotor due to the heat. I see now they need more cooling.

I have some brake cooling up front but still have the shields in place I guess they need to be removed.

The Xp8 rears held up just fine though, both pads were easy on the rotors as far as wear.

mikegarrison

Yes. They are what my brake ducts are attached to! The insides of my rotors run noticeably cooler than the outsides. Running XP8s all around right now. I seem to be getting pretty even pad life front/rear.

Ek9

Ducts were the next step for me too if the shields thing didn't work out. On this other unnamed honda, it's hard to do ducts because the calipers are on the front of the spindle and the drive axle is in the center. I think you just sort of point the air-tubes in the general direction of the back of the rotor.

Of course it doesn't weigh anything and has brakes as big as the S2k so, my braking problems are solved. Next is to work the '2k's brakes...

gbuka

Thanks for the replies everyone! Sounds like I should be fine using my old rotors. Though all this talk of toasted pads and cracking rotors makes me think I should at least bring a spare set rotors to the event...