Thermostats
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Since I couldn't post pics I just put together a pic page on one of my websites.
http://www.ez-fsbo.com/s2000/duct.html
Hope this answers your questions
http://www.ez-fsbo.com/s2000/duct.html
Hope this answers your questions
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David,
thanks for the writeup and photos.
I wonder if there could be any downside to doing this? Hopefully someone with an OBD-II reader or other means to read coolant and intake temps will do some before and after tests.
Ted
thanks for the writeup and photos.
I wonder if there could be any downside to doing this? Hopefully someone with an OBD-II reader or other means to read coolant and intake temps will do some before and after tests.
Ted
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What possible downside could there be to additional cooling efficiencies?
It is easily reversible so maybe someday when it is hot and I have the time I can double check. It is not all that hard to undo, except for the fact I would be undoing when the radiator is hot. On second thought, I 'll just leave it alone and let someone else do it.
It is easily reversible so maybe someday when it is hot and I have the time I can double check. It is not all that hard to undo, except for the fact I would be undoing when the radiator is hot. On second thought, I 'll just leave it alone and let someone else do it.
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by David b
[B]What possible downside could there be to additional cooling efficiencies?
It is easily reversible so maybe someday when it is hot and I have the time I can double check.
[B]What possible downside could there be to additional cooling efficiencies?
It is easily reversible so maybe someday when it is hot and I have the time I can double check.
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I don't think I totally agree with your last 2 posts.
Underhood temps are not a major issue in the overall cooling of your system. The convective cooling of the hot underhood air to the block, hoses, etc. is probably not even measureable. Basically ALL of your cooling happens thru the radiator (and oil). An oil cooler would increase the run time before heat soak. A vented engine compartment would solve that concern and further increase cooling efficiencies.
Am I missing something, what would be affected by higher underhood temps?
The only way raising the temp and pressure of the system cools these hot spots better is if they are hot enough to cause localized boiling. Unless you are spending large amounts of track time I don't believe that would be an issue.
Additional wear and tear on hoses, seals and connections by the increased temps and pressure I think would outweigh any benefits IF THERE ARE OTHER OPTIONS, such as increasing cooling capacities, controlling air flow, oil coolers, etc.
There is nothing worse than a sudden blow out of your water hose to ruin your track day, vacation trip, commute to work. By saving the higher pressure cap for the last thing in the cooling system upgrade you are lengthening your time before catastrophic failure.
Underhood temps are not a major issue in the overall cooling of your system. The convective cooling of the hot underhood air to the block, hoses, etc. is probably not even measureable. Basically ALL of your cooling happens thru the radiator (and oil). An oil cooler would increase the run time before heat soak. A vented engine compartment would solve that concern and further increase cooling efficiencies.
Am I missing something, what would be affected by higher underhood temps?
The only way raising the temp and pressure of the system cools these hot spots better is if they are hot enough to cause localized boiling. Unless you are spending large amounts of track time I don't believe that would be an issue.
Additional wear and tear on hoses, seals and connections by the increased temps and pressure I think would outweigh any benefits IF THERE ARE OTHER OPTIONS, such as increasing cooling capacities, controlling air flow, oil coolers, etc.
There is nothing worse than a sudden blow out of your water hose to ruin your track day, vacation trip, commute to work. By saving the higher pressure cap for the last thing in the cooling system upgrade you are lengthening your time before catastrophic failure.
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Check out Redline's site for Water Wetter (http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil/wwti.htm).
As far as the radiator cap goes, I have yet to hear of anyone blowing a hose due to a higher pressure radiator cap.
As far as the radiator cap goes, I have yet to hear of anyone blowing a hose due to a higher pressure radiator cap.
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ANYTIME a hose blows it would have blown sooner with a higher pressure cap due to the increased pressures on the hose.
I am not saying a higher pressure cap isn't ONE of the ways to increase efficiencies, I just don't feel it is the way to begin. If you have everything else working to it's highest efficiencies and you still need a little more, then a rad cap would definitely be the way to go before buying an expensive new radiator.
I think that maybe my aversion to high pressure rad caps as a universal panacea stems from spending many years with rotary engines. The 93+ RX7s come with marginal cooling systems and in their efforts to increase the operating range of the stock system there were many, many failures due to the higher pressures.
Water pumps failed earlier due to shaft leaks, internal O rings blew, and yes hoses. These were pressure related failures and were not specific to the rotary.
The Redline site seems to also support my viewpoint. They clearly say that most of the cooling happens in the radiator so anything you can do to increase the efficiency of the radiator the better off you will be.
You obviously have the higher pressure cap and hope it extends your level of operation without troubles. I am saying that you would be better off (even with your cap) by maximizing the rest of the system.
It will be more critical that you check your hoses than someone who doesn't have the cap and, all other things being equal, you should get shaft weeping from your water pump earlier than someone who uses the lower pressure cap. BUT I have seen much greater increases in cooling capacity by management of airflow than with a high pressure cap.
I am not saying a higher pressure cap isn't ONE of the ways to increase efficiencies, I just don't feel it is the way to begin. If you have everything else working to it's highest efficiencies and you still need a little more, then a rad cap would definitely be the way to go before buying an expensive new radiator.
I think that maybe my aversion to high pressure rad caps as a universal panacea stems from spending many years with rotary engines. The 93+ RX7s come with marginal cooling systems and in their efforts to increase the operating range of the stock system there were many, many failures due to the higher pressures.
Water pumps failed earlier due to shaft leaks, internal O rings blew, and yes hoses. These were pressure related failures and were not specific to the rotary.
The Redline site seems to also support my viewpoint. They clearly say that most of the cooling happens in the radiator so anything you can do to increase the efficiency of the radiator the better off you will be.
You obviously have the higher pressure cap and hope it extends your level of operation without troubles. I am saying that you would be better off (even with your cap) by maximizing the rest of the system.
It will be more critical that you check your hoses than someone who doesn't have the cap and, all other things being equal, you should get shaft weeping from your water pump earlier than someone who uses the lower pressure cap. BUT I have seen much greater increases in cooling capacity by management of airflow than with a high pressure cap.