Maybe, but if you weld the frame elements together it makes a big improvement. I've been running mine for oh, six or seven years now and the only major problem was my own fault. It is really difficult to find a replacement spring. They are not a standard size.

If you bolt them together, watch out because the nuts tend to come loose even though they are nylon insert lock nuts.

I've got the one with the bigger wheels, but I think wheel size is the only difference from the ones you are talking about.

 

I'm selling my Harbor and Freight trailer with toolbox. It has 12inch wheels, spare wheel, upgraded lights, and suspension. Registered in california.


I have towed this trailer with about 400lbs worth of stuff from San Diego to Buttonwillow (3 hours each way) several times. Even 2000lbs 138hp toyota MR2 cruising at 70mph was perfectly smooth.

If you are in Socal and need a tire trailer PM me.

My decided to build a full track car. I picked up a truck and trailer to tow it.

I will also be at Cal Speedway this saturday June 14th with speedventures but the trailer will not be there.

 

I finally got around to taking pics

The trailer started like this:


After letting a friend borrow it and it basically snapping in half at the hinge, it was upgrade time!

We lopped 24in off of it and welded the back down, it no longer folds on the back but still stands the same height when stored. Most joints are now welded.

Other upgrades:
- Welded angle iron to slide the tires into
-Put support bars on the front and mounted a removable tool box on the front.
-Added platform for cooler/gas and tie downs
- modified light location/plate location
-Painted gloss black
-added tie down points
-Added a spare
-Upgraded the casters (twice)

TAke a look:

 

Looks pretty tounge heavy, did you weigh it?

 

it doesn't feel bad with one set and tools, noticeable with two sets and ajack and stuff. I put backing plates in on the hitch. will weigh it when I get a chance but for now it is fine.

 

It looks tongue heavy ...... Can you move the trailer axle forward? Isn't the trailer rule of thumb .... find the center of the trailer and then move the axle back (away from the tongue) 1 inch back per foot length of trailer?

 

There is no general rule. there is a formula and certain tongue:axle %. We build them as we see needed then weigh them to get %.

 

I agree that trailer looks like it has too much tongue weight. A basic rule of thumb is that you want the tongue weight to be about 10-15% of the trailer weight. Having the trailer CG forward of the axle helps prevent sway.

Any tongue weight reduces steering authority for the car, so minimizing it is generally a good thing.

 

I agree that you should have ~10-15% of the total weight of the trailer as tongue weight. If that were my trailer, I'd move the axle forward.

As a follow-up to Mike's comment about "steering authority" (nice term), weight-distributing hitches are helpful in maintaining steering when loads are very heavy. On a trailer as light as the ones in this thread, they are unnecessary, but on our horse trailer (loaded weight = 6k lbs) a WD hitch really helps out.

 

yeah I might move the wheel forward, will increase the forward rak equite a bit. Will get exact weight figures once I get a scale.