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I recently started tracking my car seriously. I destroyed the front brakes and cracked a rotors at my last event so I upgraded to Girodisc rotors with Pagid yellow pads and a massive front brake duct kit.
After one day (4 forty minute sessions) the front pads are half gone. Seems like excessive wear rate.
Any thoughts?
I'm running at Sebring International - lapping 2:39-2:42
Car is 06 AP2 naturally aspirated
stock suspension and wheelsTOYO PROXES RR 225/255 tiresRear brakes are Pagid Red
The only reason to NOT run a BBK is if you're building to a certain rule set, otherwise, for regular track use with a low intermediate skilled driver or better, you need a BBK.
OEM S2000 brakes are garbage for extended track use. Absolutely needs a BBK
yeah, that's the feeling I'm getting. I run hard when I drive and it's a dedicated track car. I was hoping all the ducting and vented girodisc rotors would make a difference but I guess I just need more meat in the calipers. (One of the Porsche guys brought his scooter over tonight to see if my used front pads would fit.... Lol)
yeah, that's the feeling I'm getting. I run hard when I drive and it's a dedicated track car. I was hoping all the ducting and vented girodisc rotors would make a difference but I guess I just need more meat in the calipers. (One of the Porsche guys brought his scooter over tonight to see if my used front pads would fit.... Lol)
If i'm reading your sig correctly, you're super charged too?
Absolutely need a BBK.
I was going through a set of pads and rotors every 3-4 track days (5x25 min sessions per track day) running my s2k bone stock on 200TW tires and 2.5" ducting. No power addition at the time - OEM intake, exhaust, and tune.
Not sure how you ran 40 minute sessions being supercharged with over 400whp.
Problem with the OEM system is two fold. Low thermal capacity of pads and rotors, since they're so small, so the temperatures rise fast. And slow thermal dissipation, so you can't shed the heat fast enough, due to the rotor being so small and not having enough vanes. You can't get enough airflow through the rotors to get rid of the heat.
...Problem with the OEM system is two fold. Low thermal capacity of pads and rotors, since they're so small, so the temperatures rise fast. And slow thermal dissipation, so you can't shed the heat fast enough, due to the rotor being so small and not having enough vanes. You can't get enough airflow through the rotors to get rid of the heat.
And the previously mentioned girodisk front rotors improve only one of those issues, the rate of heat dissipation. They aren't any thicker or larger in diameter than stock, so they don't have much difference in thermal capacity.
But they have a lot more vanes, and they're curved. Thus they can dissipate heat much faster than stock.
But even a modest increase in rotor diameter would make a larger difference in rate of dissipation, all else being equal to stock (number and shape of vanes).
A larger diameter rotor would also have more thermal capacity, so double benefit.
The most important big in a bbk is rotor diameter. But the caliper has all the bling.
The most important big in a bbk is rotor diameter. But the caliper has all the bling.
Single piston sliding calipers suck for pad wear too. You get a ton of uneven pad tapered wear with the stock single piston caliper.
Agree though that the main benefit is the rotor diameter. however, the other big benefit of a BBK with large calipers is that they generally have large pads, which translates into pad mass and increased thermal capacity. The stock pads are tiny and have crap thermal capacity. This is why the spoon caliper "upgrade" with girodisc 2-piece rotors still has problems. you need to keep the pads at a sweet temperature spot. Once you start exceeding max temperature ratings on the pad you get accelerated wear and start having brake fad issues.
If i'm reading your sig correctly, you're super charged too?.
Not anymore. Blew up the motor with KW kit several years ago. Replaced motor and KW kit broke some mounting bolts and the belt (all on the street, no track). I got frustrated and she sat in the garage for a few years after that.
When I decided to get back into tracking her I decided to remove it entirely. Now making 230WHP with custom bolt Ons and tune.
Need to change my sign - I haven't been active here since then.
Appreciate all the input. Basically sounds like I'm out driving the capabilities of the stock brakes. Probably doesn't help I'm on a 40 TW tire either (Toyo Proxes RR). Just adding to the amount of force generates by the system and transmitted to the brakes.
Time to start shopping seriously for a BBK....
I'm leaning towards the Sakebomb Garage competition AP racing kit (front and rear). Any thoughts on this?
Track Brake Help
