Track Brake Help
A BBK is not a bad idea but seeing where you are as a driver (:39 @ sebring) and on stock suspension with r comps I suggest a different path. You should be on a 200 TW tire if your not faster than a :34 or going to run on stock suspension. With the less aggressive tire you will not see as much brake degredation. Buy a more responsive suspension that will control your alignment better and square wheels/tires. Only get the BBK if your budget is such that you can do the BBK as well as suspension and wheels.
Your bed-in and cool down process is critical on stock size brakes.
Your bed-in and cool down process is critical on stock size brakes.
I actually did the opposite and upgraded brakes before getting coilovers. Running on stock suspension with 225/255 with 200TW with the OEM wheels and just some camber adjusters, I was killing pads and cracking 1-piece rotors every 3-4 track days.
I got a BBK and ran stock suspension with 255 square on 17x9 with a large front bar for 2 years before upgrading and getting coilovers.
I'm in the minority taking that approach, though. My primary aim was to reduce consumables wear rates and increase overall reliability. Going fast was secondary. I wanted to try to make this expensive hobby as affordable as possible. BBK early on was absolutely the right choice. I'm glad I got the BBK before the coilovers.
As far as BBKs, I'm biased to the ST40 328x28mm kit. It isn't fancy, but it gets the job done and has been reliable and trouble free. I get about 50 track days out of the rotor rings.
I got a BBK and ran stock suspension with 255 square on 17x9 with a large front bar for 2 years before upgrading and getting coilovers.
I'm in the minority taking that approach, though. My primary aim was to reduce consumables wear rates and increase overall reliability. Going fast was secondary. I wanted to try to make this expensive hobby as affordable as possible. BBK early on was absolutely the right choice. I'm glad I got the BBK before the coilovers.
As far as BBKs, I'm biased to the ST40 328x28mm kit. It isn't fancy, but it gets the job done and has been reliable and trouble free. I get about 50 track days out of the rotor rings.
With the Girodisc you can give the accord caliper and pad a shot. Large increase in of size. It’s easy and bolt on. I ran for couple years wheel to wheel making the stock work because we were required to run them with the rules.
also, you may want to try the hawk dtc60 to work at the temps better.
also, you may want to try the hawk dtc60 to work at the temps better.
I recently started tracking my car seriously. I destroyed the front brakes and cracked a rotors at my last event so I upgraded to Girodisc rotors with Pagid yellow pads and a massive front brake duct kit.
After one day (4 forty minute sessions) the front pads are half gone. Seems like excessive wear rate.
Any thoughts?
I'm running at Sebring International - lapping 2:39-2:42
Car is 06 AP2 naturally aspirated
stock suspension and wheelsTOYO PROXES RR 225/255 tiresRear brakes are Pagid Red
After one day (4 forty minute sessions) the front pads are half gone. Seems like excessive wear rate.
Any thoughts?
I'm running at Sebring International - lapping 2:39-2:42
Car is 06 AP2 naturally aspirated
stock suspension and wheelsTOYO PROXES RR 225/255 tiresRear brakes are Pagid Red
Last edited by xBoostx; Mar 8, 2022 at 08:36 PM.
With the Girodisc you can give the accord caliper and pad a shot. Large increase in of size. It’s easy and bolt on. I ran for couple years wheel to wheel making the stock work because we were required to run them with the rules.
also, you may want to try the hawk dtc60 to work at the temps better.
also, you may want to try the hawk dtc60 to work at the temps better.
I'll get a set of DTC60 for next time. You run same pads front and back or use the 70s in the rear?
I actually did the opposite and upgraded brakes before getting coilovers. Running on stock suspension with 225/255 with 200TW with the OEM wheels and just some camber adjusters, I was killing pads and cracking 1-piece rotors every 3-4 track days.
I got a BBK and ran stock suspension with 255 square on 17x9 with a large front bar for 2 years before upgrading and getting coilovers.
I'm in the minority taking that approach, though. My primary aim was to reduce consumables wear rates and increase overall reliability. Going fast was secondary. I wanted to try to make this expensive hobby as affordable as possible. BBK early on was absolutely the right choice. I'm glad I got the BBK before the coilovers.
As far as BBKs, I'm biased to the ST40 328x28mm kit. It isn't fancy, but it gets the job done and has been reliable and trouble free. I get about 50 track days out of the rotor rings.
I got a BBK and ran stock suspension with 255 square on 17x9 with a large front bar for 2 years before upgrading and getting coilovers.
I'm in the minority taking that approach, though. My primary aim was to reduce consumables wear rates and increase overall reliability. Going fast was secondary. I wanted to try to make this expensive hobby as affordable as possible. BBK early on was absolutely the right choice. I'm glad I got the BBK before the coilovers.
As far as BBKs, I'm biased to the ST40 328x28mm kit. It isn't fancy, but it gets the job done and has been reliable and trouble free. I get about 50 track days out of the rotor rings.
I ran DTC60's for a while. I liked the initial bite and I liked how fast they came to temp. That was the end of it though. Wore like crazy (pad and rotor). I went to Carbotech XP10/XP8 and am a lot happier. They do have a bit more warm up time but last a good amount longer for me so far. And if dust bothers you the DTC60's are down right awful there. I do not get too upset over the dust on my track car, but MAN were the DTC's bad! Tons of it and it is more staining and corrosive than the Carbotech.
I think the Carbotech is easier to modulate as well, but I actually did like that hard initial bite of the DTC60. Still not enough to go back to them from the Carbotechs. Getting the rebates from TireRack through TrackNight was nice on the Hawks though so that may sway you more if you do Track Night in America events.
I think the Carbotech is easier to modulate as well, but I actually did like that hard initial bite of the DTC60. Still not enough to go back to them from the Carbotechs. Getting the rebates from TireRack through TrackNight was nice on the Hawks though so that may sway you more if you do Track Night in America events.
For OP, these are the pads that I've used rated in order from most preferred to least preferred.
- Raybestos ST43/ST42 (i run ST43 F/R now since the 42 is discontinued)
- Carbotech XP12/10 (F/R)
- Carbotech XP10/8 (F/R)
- DTC 70/60
- Project Mu HC800+
- Project Mu CR
Future pads:
- ST45/ST43 (looking to bump up the pad compounds with Raybestos)
- CSG (counter space garage) brake pads. I hear all sorts of magical things about these pads. However; they're super pricey compared to almost everything else in the market.
I used dtc60 front and rear on my SS 1LE. Liked them for bite and fade resistance. Hated them for the dust and the very heavy wear on the rotors.
For my S, I’m still old school. Cobalt XR2/XR3 combo. Using the smaller Urge Designs BBK front, 2 piece rear
For my S, I’m still old school. Cobalt XR2/XR3 combo. Using the smaller Urge Designs BBK front, 2 piece rear










