manystyles

Hello,

Anyone know if I wanted to try a different brand/pad compound that resurfacing the rotor would be sufficient enough to avoid cross contamination?

I'll still need to check if the rotors are past thickness spec.

zpeed

That is more than enough. But why make the rotors thinner. Usually when I switch the pads I use sanding pad on the drill on both side. After that spray with brake cleaner. This are the racing pads right.

freq

If you're doing it right. those rotors will crack LONG before they get too thin or reach their service limit.

manystyles

The right method being resurfacing, or using some sandpaper/steel wool?

freq

Do not "cut" the rotors. This removes too much material and makes the rotor thinner and even more prone to cracking. You could scuff them yourself or even have them media blasted.

If your new pads are even more aggressive than the old ones, you'd likely be fine doing nothing.

For around $50 you could have some brand new Centric blanks from RockAuto delivered to your house.

thomsbrain

I may be in the minority, but I've learned that if you are driving the car to/from the track it doesn't appear to be necessary to even scuff/sand rotors when switching pads, including between brands of track pads. Most track pads are so abrasive when cold that they will do the job of cleaning off the old pad's transfer layer on your drive to the track. Similarly, they will clean off their own transfer layer on the drive back, so you can safely switch back to stock pads when you get home, if you bother doing that switch. I don't drive enough street miles between events to make switching pads worth it, so I just leave the track pads on all the time, and when they are toast, I just throw on the next set, regardless of brand, and head back out to the track.

manystyles

Ok, great information here!

Freq, big fan of Centric rotors from Rock Auto! Thomas, I was running the same pad on and off track. They just dust like crazy as a daily use pad, hence having a pad/rotor for street only and another for track.

The old rotors, I'll just measure the thickness left and decide if I need one ones. If not, probably just pop in the old rotors with new pad compound and call it a day.

S2GARAGENYC

I have 2 sets of rotors for the front of my car, I switch between AX6's and OEM pads for track/street use. However in the rear admittedly, I do in fact have 2 sets of rotors but never swap them purely out of laziness. The reason why I'm chiming in here, is because I have seen no ill effects in the rear switching between the AX6 and OEM pads. I'm considering implementing this practice up front, but really, the front rotors are just 2 extra bolts, so the laziness factor isn't as big a deal here.

DHonovich

I have NEVER done anything beyond swap pads on my s2000 racecar. I have gone from hawk (dtc60) to carbotech (xp8-12) and all I do is throw the pads in and go run them. I can't see how scuffing the surface of the rotor does much of anything for track use.

Nate Tempest

Carbotech/G-Loc seem to be much more vocal about the need to remove transfer layer before switching to/from a different type of pads than other companies. Supposedly it's due to the kevlar and/or ceramic content in their pads, or something along those lines. But yeah, I can't see how the same thing wouldn't happen—cold track pad should remove the existing transfer layer pretty quick, and I don't see how the stuff it removes would become embedded in it or something.

Now, if you swap the track pads on AT the track and go right out and do a hot lap that would obviously be another thing entirely.