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A Track Braking Review of 2015

Old 01-04-2016, 07:01 AM
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Nice write up. I have not been tracking an s2000 for a couple years but I am into an s2000 build so I am back. I was running xp12/xp8 , Stock calipers, no ducting on 255/275 R888. Moving away from a street tire will push the brakes much more obviously. I would get fade late into a 30 minute session but front rotor failure was far more the issue for me. 2 full days created spider cracks that propagated into the hat or rotor outer edge. Had a few self destruct upon cooling. were you seeing front rotors pop when using stock calipers?
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Old 01-04-2016, 07:04 AM
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Can you comment on how the rear Urge rotors look after several weekends? It's great to hear pad life has increased but any comment on rotor wear? Also did they advise you on a minimum recommended thickness?
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Old 01-04-2016, 08:02 AM
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Looks great. How'd u shave the pads
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Old 01-04-2016, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by miamirice View Post
Nice write up. I have not been tracking an s2000 for a couple years but I am into an s2000 build so I am back. I was running xp12/xp8 , Stock calipers, no ducting on 255/275 R888. Moving away from a street tire will push the brakes much more obviously. I would get fade late into a 30 minute session but front rotor failure was far more the issue for me. 2 full days created spider cracks that propagated into the hat or rotor outer edge. Had a few self destruct upon cooling. where you seeing front rotors pop when using stock calipers?
Stickier compounds will absolutely push the brakes harder. I ran my last event, TWS for two days, swapping between a set of 255 Rival S's and 255 Nitto NT01s. My current setup takes the NT01s for thirty minutes without apparent fade.

I had pad deposits on my new front SoS rotors after a single track day at H2R with DS2500s. I turned the rotors and went to CotA with XP10s. The rotors had severe pad deposits, ridges, and a touch more than just spider cracks after two days. I turned the rotors again, but deemed them unsafe for tracking. They were good for three track days.

Originally Posted by SlowTeg View Post
Can you comment on how the rear Urge rotors look after several weekends? It's great to hear pad life has increased but any comment on rotor wear? Also did they advise you on a minimum recommended thickness?
They look great considering they have done nothing but autocross and track since I installed them! I intend to get some photos and measurements of the rear rotors soon. I'm in the middle of installing harness anchors but once that is complete I will be swapping to my track pads and bleeding my brakes in preparation for another TWS event.

If you are asking about the rotor minimum thickness, I have not looked into it yet. I'll look over the rings when I take the wheel off.
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Old 01-04-2016, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by jst2878 View Post
Looks great. How'd u shave the pads
Both my autocross pads and my track pads were used when I installed the rotors. They were both worn the pre-requisite 2mm per side needed to install.
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Old 01-04-2016, 12:08 PM
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am I the only one annoyed about brake ducts being illegal for any autox class? an autox course is never long enough for brake ducts to make a difference so why do they care if their on the car or not?

/rant


on a more serious note, where does one go to get brake pads shaved off if they don't wanna buy the custom thickness Cobalt pads?
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Old 01-04-2016, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by warmmilk View Post
am I the only one annoyed about brake ducts being illegal for any autox class? an autox course is never long enough for brake ducts to make a difference so why do they care if their on the car or not?

/rant


on a more serious note, where does one go to get brake pads shaved off if they don't wanna buy the custom thickness Cobalt pads?
If you have strong backing plates (some providers have been known to crack in the past), several of our customers are shaving the backing plate. If you don't use the rear shims, you can get away with 1.5mm shaving per side.

The easiest thing to do if you are staying with the same compound is simply manage the rear pads by using one worn, at least 3-4mm and one new for a few events. Once the oldest is worn, replace with one new till the other oldest is worn and repeat. This works as the rear caliper is sliding. You will have to inspect/manage the pad before and after each event, but you should be doing this anyway.
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Old 01-04-2016, 04:14 PM
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and how about if I'm buying new pads? will a regular machine shop be able to take care of that for me? is there a specific tool/process you can recommend to get it done to make sure the pad doesn't crumble? I'm not really liking the shave the backing plate idea... also, how do I know if my pad has a strong backing plate or not?
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Old 01-04-2016, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by warmmilk View Post
and how about if I'm buying new pads? will a regular machine shop be able to take care of that for me? is there a specific tool/process you can recommend to get it done to make sure the pad doesn't crumble? I'm not really liking the shave the backing plate idea... also, how do I know if my pad has a strong backing plate or not?
We have had customers shave the back of PMU and Hawk with no issues. What pads do you use, prefer?
Machine shops can handle the backing plates, not many will do the pad side. Evasive does the pads for us if the customer goes that route. Most do the use/new swap, other have milled the backing plates.
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Old 01-04-2016, 08:26 PM
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Patrick, so just to make sure, you need to shave off 4.5mm from the bracket and 3mm from the pads?
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