Looks like most guys run -3.5F/-3R camber if they can, my question is how much is too much front camber?
With the buddy club ball joints I can run any camber I want, is -4F/-3R too much? anyone tried it?
I almost never street drive the car and I have separate wheels with cheap tires so street wear isn't a concern at all.

My current thoughts
Front
-3.5 camber
7 caster (max out)
0 toe

Rear
-3.0 camber (max out adjusters)
0.25 inch total toe-in.

Current Setup:

Buddy Club P1 Camber/Roll center ball joints
T1R rear toe arms
GTC-300
KW V3
Ankeny Racing Blade Front Sway Bar
AP1 27.2 rear sway bar (will probably change or remove)
All poly bushings
WASP Splitter
17x9 +62 255 square RS3

 

Too much front camber is when you decrease camber and add grip. Too little front camber is when you add camber and add grip.

Camber is relative to the tires you have, the ride height you are running, the bars, springs, nearly everything. You are in the ballpark in the ~3 range, but nobody but you can determine if you are in the right spot.

 

A traditional way to determine camber is to use a tire pyrometer immediately after coming off the track after several hot laps. Typically camber and tire pressure would be adjusted so that they were even across the tire.

A more modern way is to record the tire temperatures across the tread on the track and adjust the camber and pressure so they are even in the corners.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWNNl__Rbmc[/media]

 

thanks guys, I'll start with -3.5/-3, take measurements and go from there.

 

Any updates?

 

Lots of front end grip on on track, pretty much zero understeer, at 36psi I was using all the treadwidth.

 

Lots of front end grip on on track, pretty much zero understeer, at 36psi I was using all the treadwidth.
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What tires are you running?

 

Also
-OEM Hardtop

Lots of front end grip on on track, pretty much zero understeer, at 36psi I was using all the treadwidth.[/quote]What tires are you running?
[/quote]

255/40ZR-17 HANKOOK VENTUS R-S3 V2

 

One thing people don't talk about often enough is that excessive camber reduces braking and acceleration potential. IMO, the ideal suspension would keep the wheels upright on the straights and give "just the right amount" dynamically in turns. Since we're working with an OEM suspension system and most of the time don't have the freedom within the rules to do significant geometry changes, we're generally stuck making compromises. Ultimately your optimum camber will be whatever gives you the best lap times.

 

As these pictures from the Hungary F1 show, even the most sophisticated race cars run lots of static negative camber. Even the OEM rear setting is -1.5° negative. Generally, traction corning has a bigger impact on lap times than braking or accelerating in a straight line. Even there, corning traction exiting a turn can be converted to forward traction in the turn by shifting more of the weight transfer to the outside front tire which puts more weight on the inside rear tire.