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Track Only Alignment

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Old Aug 18, 2015 | 09:13 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by rosica
Also
-APR GTC-300
-OEM Hardtop
255/40ZR-17 HANKOOK VENTUS R-S3 V2
Any front aero? That seems like a huge wing to not have understeer with no front aero to match.
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Old Aug 18, 2015 | 09:31 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by King Tut
Originally Posted by rosica' timestamp='1439859117' post='23717529
Also -APR GTC-300-OEM Hardtop255/40ZR-17 HANKOOK VENTUS R-S3 V2
Any front aero? That seems like a huge wing to not have understeer with no front aero to match.
WASP splitter

Originally Posted by rosica
Current Setup:
Buddy Club P1 Camber/Roll center ball joints
T1R rear toe arms
GTC-300
KW V3
Ankeny Racing Blade Front Sway Bar
AP1 27.2 rear sway bar (will probably change or remove)
All poly bushings
WASP Splitter
17x9 +62 255 square RS3
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Old Aug 18, 2015 | 10:49 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by rosica
WASP splitter
Sorry I missed it. Good to see the WASP was enough to balance out the wing.
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Old Aug 18, 2015 | 11:25 AM
  #14  
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I think it depends on your tires and balance you want.

I am running dunlup star spec 2 and i had 3.0 front and 3.0 back. the back had some over steer mid exit. previously i had 2.8 all around and it was very neutral. So now its time to try 3.0 front and 2.8 back.

I think its about you dialing it in to the way you drive and like everyone else says, its about your tire choice
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Old Aug 27, 2015 | 11:31 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by DavidNJ
A traditional way to determine camber is to use a tire pyrometer immediately after coming off the track after several hot laps. Typically camber and tire pressure would be adjusted so that they were even across the tire.

A more modern way is to record the tire temperatures across the tread on the track and adjust the camber and pressure so they are even in the corners.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWNNl__Rbmc[/media]
Is that you?... that's pretty neat if it is.

Mind sharing your alignment settings in the video?

Thank You.
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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 06:07 PM
  #16  
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I started with this earlier this year and corded the outside fronts on my Maxxis RC-1's (wasn't paying attention as I got faster - still got 31 heat cycles out of them before this).



My current alignment and now on Hoosier R7's. I've only done one day on them and didn't take an temperature samples.



Details on my setup can be found here: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/112...#entry23592378

For the most part, I've been following what a good friend of mine has recommended I do for alignments. He's a phenomal driver and 2x NASA TT3 Nationals champ and 2x SCCA AutoX champ (SM and BSP). He puts me in a good place to start with and I can feel out the car from there.
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 09:25 AM
  #17  
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I don't seem anything wrong with that. I still prefer zero toe up front, but I like a one degree split front to rear. Hoosier says their A7/R7 doesn't like more than -3 degrees though.
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 10:57 AM
  #18  
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I don't see anything saying it doesn't like more, but that it requires "about".

Originally Posted by Hoosier
Chassis Setup Recommendations
For optimum performance the Hoosier P-Metric radial tires require about 3 degrees of negative camber.
As far as toe up front. After getting the car settled/dialed in, my buddy recommended to go with the toe out up front to keep up turn entry speed. Both this and the alignment seemed to do well this past weekend.
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Old Jan 11, 2016 | 07:43 AM
  #19  
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For those of you that are running -3.0+ camber in the front, do you have that "numb" feeling in the steering?

I only have -2.25 up front and the feeling of the steering not wanting to re-align itself back to "straight", in addition to the "numb" feeling, gives me lack of confidence, not allowing me to drive the car as aggressively as before.

Thanks.
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Old Jan 11, 2016 | 08:55 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 8kGoodENuff
For those of you that are running -3.0+ camber in the front, do you have that "numb" feeling in the steering?

I only have -2.25 up front and the feeling of the steering not wanting to re-align itself back to "straight", in addition to the "numb" feeling, gives me lack of confidence, not allowing me to drive the car as aggressively as before.

Thanks.
The feedback sensed can also be dependent on the tires used. My steering does not feel numb even with -3.0. What is your caster set at? A high caster will induce the return to center behavior in the steering wheel.
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