Track pad life is really bad
I picked up a used stoptech bbk and did a track event and the pads don't even look like they wore at all. Also, the stopping is much better than previous.
Go for the bbk and make sure your wheels fit like robrob said. I used TSW nurburging 17x9 with nitto nt01 and they fit great.
Go for the bbk and make sure your wheels fit like robrob said. I used TSW nurburging 17x9 with nitto nt01 and they fit great.
The rear wear rate you are seeing is pretty shocking. Have you verified that everything is mechanically sound? No sticking calipers etc? Does one side wear more than the other?
If everything is sound i would consider three things:
1: Ducting is always good and will help with anything following as well.
2: Change compounds. I was having bad wear issues and it cost me a fortune in pads. I changed to the ST43 pad and immediately saw double pad life even without ducting (went from 1 set of pads per 3 events to 1 set per 4-7 depending on venue)
3: If all of the above still doesnt help then invest in a BBK. This is what I did eventually and I was very happy with the results. I have run pretty much all this year on one set of pads/rotors on my ST40 kit using ST43 pads square.
If you plan on doing more than 8 track days a year then the BBK it will be cheaper in the long run.
If everything is sound i would consider three things:
1: Ducting is always good and will help with anything following as well.
2: Change compounds. I was having bad wear issues and it cost me a fortune in pads. I changed to the ST43 pad and immediately saw double pad life even without ducting (went from 1 set of pads per 3 events to 1 set per 4-7 depending on venue)
3: If all of the above still doesnt help then invest in a BBK. This is what I did eventually and I was very happy with the results. I have run pretty much all this year on one set of pads/rotors on my ST40 kit using ST43 pads square.
If you plan on doing more than 8 track days a year then the BBK it will be cheaper in the long run.
Instead of a full on BBK consider the Racing Brake Accord caliper upgrade kit. Beefy 2 piece rotor with larger Accord calipers and should fit on your wheels. RobRob has a write up on his website on his experience with these and the RB 2 piece vented rotor kit for the rear.
I think you'll also get better pad life by switching to another pad..
The Performance friction 97's in my rear OEM brakes lasted 13 track days/65+ sessions (the PF 08's in my front Stoptech BBK look like they have more than 80% life remaining!). All those sessions are a local track that is BRUTAL on brakes
The Performance friction 97's in my rear OEM brakes lasted 13 track days/65+ sessions (the PF 08's in my front Stoptech BBK look like they have more than 80% life remaining!). All those sessions are a local track that is BRUTAL on brakes
Concur with above. I was killing a set of xp12/10's on OEM calipers after a couple lapping days at above said track.
Skip all the baby steps with the brakes (accord calipers, ducting, etc etc). It's going to cost you more time and money, only to figure out in the end that you need a BBK.
Stoptech gets my vote for value, performance, pad shape availability, customer service and replacement part cost.
Can't go wrong with any of the AP kits either.
Skip all the baby steps with the brakes (accord calipers, ducting, etc etc). It's going to cost you more time and money, only to figure out in the end that you need a BBK.
Stoptech gets my vote for value, performance, pad shape availability, customer service and replacement part cost.
Can't go wrong with any of the AP kits either.
Stoptech or AP are probably the best options.
given you can work out caliper clearance (need new wheehls and probabaly fender moding).
i wend to accord caliper/carbotech pad/RB 2 piece rotor - and it's so far looks very durable and provides a solid performance.
anyway - rear ducting is a must - it's cheap and easy to install. just do it !!!!
given you can work out caliper clearance (need new wheehls and probabaly fender moding).
i wend to accord caliper/carbotech pad/RB 2 piece rotor - and it's so far looks very durable and provides a solid performance.
anyway - rear ducting is a must - it's cheap and easy to install. just do it !!!!
Concur with above. I was killing a set of xp12/10's on OEM calipers after a couple lapping days at above said track.
Skip all the baby steps with the brakes (accord calipers, ducting, etc etc). It's going to cost you more time and money, only to figure out in the end that you need a BBK.
Stoptech gets my vote for value, performance, pad shape availability, customer service and replacement part cost.
Can't go wrong with any of the AP kits either.
Skip all the baby steps with the brakes (accord calipers, ducting, etc etc). It's going to cost you more time and money, only to figure out in the end that you need a BBK.
Stoptech gets my vote for value, performance, pad shape availability, customer service and replacement part cost.
Can't go wrong with any of the AP kits either.
I think you are asking for the impossible. You are asking how to maximize brake pad life without spending any real money. Your ideal situation is a BBK with ducting. That will maximize your brake pad life as much as possible. I haven't owned my S2000 long enough to really judge the pad life. It's currently using the OEM brakes with ducting for the front, and Cobalt pads front/rear. With the two events I've had with it, I'm estimating I can do 3-4 events with the pads depending on the tracks. That puts me around 2 and a half sets for a season with Cobalts. I am seeing the rear pads self-destructing before the pad life is done so I'm going to look into rear ducting this winter.
If you aren't doing competitions where mods count against you, go for the BBK and ducting. In the end, you'll make up the costs by what you save on brake pads.
If you aren't doing competitions where mods count against you, go for the BBK and ducting. In the end, you'll make up the costs by what you save on brake pads.
Jim, are you sure your pads and rotors were bedded in for each track day? If the rotors don't have a nice transfer layer they will eat your pads. I know Carbotech sells their pads pre-bedded but the rotors still need to be bedded to the pads. Driving the car on the street will remove the transfer layer on the rotors so a street car really needs to be re-bedded before each track day. Figuring this out made a big difference in pad wear for me. Be sure you tape over the brake ducts for the bedding procedure.












