Hi,

I had a long day at the track last Monday, and seem to have warped at least one of my rotors. The brakes work fine, even under repeated load, but I was wondering if there is any service which needs to be done on a warped rotor. I'm going to change pads and fluid soon, and it needs to go in for its 7500 mile service, so I though I'd ask first.

Thanks.

--Mark

 

What makes you think the rotors are warped? The idea of warped rotors is over hyped. It doesn't happen very often.

 

Mark, have a look at this article that explains away the myth of "warped" rotors.

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm

 

You were out there for a long time on stock pads and fluid. This was your second track day on those same stock pads. I would suspect that if there is a problem with your brakes, it is located in the pads and fluids, not the rotors. But you never know.

What are the symptoms making you think the rotor is warped?

 

Interesting stuff, guy. Thanks.

Mike, toward the end of the day, after perhaps 100 laps, I started getting vibration under braking. It's still there. The brakes work just the same, under either normal street service or hard use, but there is a roughness/vibration to them now. When I get the new racing fluid, I'm going to change the brake pads to higher performance pads, but is there anything else I need to think about?

--Mark

 

"warping" is usually from pad deposits/buildup on the rotor.

Warped or not the repair is the same, have then turned at a local brake shop or get new rotors.

If the vibration is minor on the street you can chose to live with it some.

 

I drive on the track regularly; is it then highly advisable to have the rotor turned, or is this just a "cosmetic" problem if I'm willing to live with it?

Also, are there rotors which are perfectly fine for street use (this is my daily driver) which would be less prone to this problem, or are the higher-perfroming pads I'm about to put in a longer-term fix?

Thanks.

--Mark

 

yes usually you get deposits because you've gotten the pads hotter than their operating range and they've started to melt.

I'd turn the set use them for the street and when you get new pads, get new rotors to match.

If you're a track junkie you gotta try a set of the cobalts.

 

Thanks. Would Cobalt rotors (I already have Cobalt pads ready to put in) be fine for the street, also? I don't want to be trading back and forth.

How hard is it to install new rotors oneself?

--Mark

 

I'm pretty sure he meant cobalt pads, not rotors. Rotors are a commodity for the S2K. Changing the rotors is easy. There are two screws holding them on. An impact driver makes it easy to loosen those screws. That's about all there is to it.