What G-Loc Brake Pad Is right for you?
05-08-2017, 06:54 AM
#23
GS-1: For street or autocross only. It's a quiet low dusting compound with non-corrosive brake dust. Super easy on the rotors and lasts a really long time. the owner of Gloc has gotten about 70,000 miles out of a set for my own car, and his wife got 100k on hers.
R6: Engineered for autocross, but it can be used for daily driving if you don't mind some dust and noise. Noise only happens when you apply light pedal pressure when coming to a stop (anything below 15mph or so). If you get on them hard they will NOT make any noise. If you lightly tap on the brakes on the highway or at speed (above 20mph or so) they will NOT make any noise. The stopping power on the street is mind blowing! If your passenger doesn't have their seat belt on they will end up kissing the windshield. lol. However, this compound is NOT meant for track use, because it has a low temp ceiling and the driver will experience fade.
R8: G-Loc's most versatile compound that they offer. Meaning, you can daily drive with it, autocross, and go to your HPDE events and never change pads. It's easy on the rotors when cold and when hot. It has great bite when cold and even better bite when hot. Non-corrosive brake dust. It's one of our best wearing (longest lasting) compounds. Great for beginners.
R10: This compound is about a 20%-25% increase in bite and torque over the R8. You can still drive on the street with it but it will make A LOT of noise on the street. That being said, it still has good cold bite and a ton more when it gets hot. This can be used successfully by beginners and advanced drivers. R10 has a ton of modulation, trail braking ability, and a very smooth release. It's not as easy on the rotors as the R8, but it's WAY more easier on the rotors than anything from Hawk, Project Mu, PFC, EBC, Mintex, Porterfield, Endless, Pagid, and Raybestos. R10 has more modulation than anything by any of those previous companies as well. Because of how hard the S2000's are on brakes this may be the best place to start for anyone.
R12: This is their most versatile compound for race/track day cars. About a 20% increase in bite and torque vs the R10. You can still drive on the street with it requires a tiny bit of heat to start working properly and it will make A LOT of noise on the street. That being said, it still has good cold bite and a ton more when it gets hot. Great for intermediate and the advance drivers. More rotor friendly than anything from Hawk, Project Mu, PFC, EBC, Mintex, Porterfield, Endless, Pagid, and Raybestos. This compound can work on a Trans-Am car (not ideal, but it works), Corvette, Mustang, Viper, S2000, Spec Miata, down to a Lotus Elise. And it works well on all of them. It can take a good amount of heat. It has a little less modulation than the R10 compound, and it will wear at a faster rate than both the R10 and R8.
R16: This compound has some serious bite and torque. It requires some heat to start working, but the performance is amazing. This is meant for S2000's, 350Z/370Z, Mustang, Corvette, Viper, 911, Cayman, with a really aggressive street tire or a true r-compound tire (like a Hoosier R7 or something like that). This compound can only go on something lighter weight like a spec miata, lotus elise with they are running true r-comp tires.
R18: R-Comp tires ONLY! This compound takes a lot of heat to start working, but once it does it's magical....seriously! This compound has a shit ton of bite and torque. Great modulation and a smooth release (once you have enough heat into it). If you run this compound without getting enough heat into it, then it will be VERY aggressive on the rotors. There is NO pad on the market by any other manufacturer that has as high of a coefficient of friction as the R18 does.
With that being said I currently Run R16 up front on my Stoptech Brake kit and R12 on stock rear calipers. I have a special discount for the tracking community as well so feel free to PM me if you are interested.
R6: Engineered for autocross, but it can be used for daily driving if you don't mind some dust and noise. Noise only happens when you apply light pedal pressure when coming to a stop (anything below 15mph or so). If you get on them hard they will NOT make any noise. If you lightly tap on the brakes on the highway or at speed (above 20mph or so) they will NOT make any noise. The stopping power on the street is mind blowing! If your passenger doesn't have their seat belt on they will end up kissing the windshield. lol. However, this compound is NOT meant for track use, because it has a low temp ceiling and the driver will experience fade.
R8: G-Loc's most versatile compound that they offer. Meaning, you can daily drive with it, autocross, and go to your HPDE events and never change pads. It's easy on the rotors when cold and when hot. It has great bite when cold and even better bite when hot. Non-corrosive brake dust. It's one of our best wearing (longest lasting) compounds. Great for beginners.
R10: This compound is about a 20%-25% increase in bite and torque over the R8. You can still drive on the street with it but it will make A LOT of noise on the street. That being said, it still has good cold bite and a ton more when it gets hot. This can be used successfully by beginners and advanced drivers. R10 has a ton of modulation, trail braking ability, and a very smooth release. It's not as easy on the rotors as the R8, but it's WAY more easier on the rotors than anything from Hawk, Project Mu, PFC, EBC, Mintex, Porterfield, Endless, Pagid, and Raybestos. R10 has more modulation than anything by any of those previous companies as well. Because of how hard the S2000's are on brakes this may be the best place to start for anyone.
R12: This is their most versatile compound for race/track day cars. About a 20% increase in bite and torque vs the R10. You can still drive on the street with it requires a tiny bit of heat to start working properly and it will make A LOT of noise on the street. That being said, it still has good cold bite and a ton more when it gets hot. Great for intermediate and the advance drivers. More rotor friendly than anything from Hawk, Project Mu, PFC, EBC, Mintex, Porterfield, Endless, Pagid, and Raybestos. This compound can work on a Trans-Am car (not ideal, but it works), Corvette, Mustang, Viper, S2000, Spec Miata, down to a Lotus Elise. And it works well on all of them. It can take a good amount of heat. It has a little less modulation than the R10 compound, and it will wear at a faster rate than both the R10 and R8.
R16: This compound has some serious bite and torque. It requires some heat to start working, but the performance is amazing. This is meant for S2000's, 350Z/370Z, Mustang, Corvette, Viper, 911, Cayman, with a really aggressive street tire or a true r-compound tire (like a Hoosier R7 or something like that). This compound can only go on something lighter weight like a spec miata, lotus elise with they are running true r-comp tires.
R18: R-Comp tires ONLY! This compound takes a lot of heat to start working, but once it does it's magical....seriously! This compound has a shit ton of bite and torque. Great modulation and a smooth release (once you have enough heat into it). If you run this compound without getting enough heat into it, then it will be VERY aggressive on the rotors. There is NO pad on the market by any other manufacturer that has as high of a coefficient of friction as the R18 does.
With that being said I currently Run R16 up front on my Stoptech Brake kit and R12 on stock rear calipers. I have a special discount for the tracking community as well so feel free to PM me if you are interested.
05-11-2017, 11:30 AM
#25
Former Sponsor
I have a 2001 Honda S2000, 17x9 wheels, 200 tread tires, track use only. Using stock calipers & Rotors with some air duct to the fronts. I have been using Carbotech xp 10 - front and xp 8 on the rear. Would you recommend the G-LOC R16 compound for both the front and rear or just the front. Thanks.
Carbotechs and G-LOC are the same
05-12-2017, 07:56 AM
#26
08-07-2017, 09:49 AM
#28
Another satisfied customer here. Ran the R16 fronts with my Stoptech BBK and R12 rear on stock calipers. Ducts all around. Great bite and modulation and balance. Very consistent throughout day as well.
08-07-2017, 10:05 AM
#29
How would it be different if R16s on ST40 BBK up front, but R10 rear on stock calipers?
08-07-2017, 11:03 AM
#30
I'm probably not the best guy to ask since my experience with pad biasing is near zero to this point. But my understanding is you could expect less rear braking force, so your fronts would be assuming more of the duty. I think typically you want to try and maintain and equal amount of duty front to rear, but your tire size/traction has to be accounted for. Under breaking your transferring weight up front, so naturally you don't want the same braking force front to rear or you will prematurely lock up the rear. The stock brakes are already biased for this, but when you start introducing BBK and different tire staggers, some slight re biasing may need to be considered. R16/R12 felt great to me for my set up. R16/R10 might be a safer choice for a non staggered tire set up if you have one. You don't want too much rear brake force over the front or you lose the rear end, makes the car skittish under braking. Overly relying on the front means your breaking effectiveness isn't quite on par either. front and rear lock up should happen at the same time ideally, with slight bias to front first if airing on the safe side for stability/control.
Last edited by s2000Junky; 08-07-2017 at 11:06 AM.