wheel studs stretching?
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What I usually do at the track, I just don't go out for the last session, wait a few minutes for things to cool down, then take my wheels off and wait for everything untill it's fairly cool to touch (30-60min) and then I put my stock wheels back on. It's quite annoying to do it that way, but better safe then sorry.
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TubeDriver Posted on May 20 2009, 06:56 PM
How?
I mean, when the wrench clicks at 110Nm, that IS the torque applied.
The torque wrench measures the force you, the operator, apply to it.
Force X arm length = torque.
The difference in using lubed or dry thread is that with dry threads more of the force is needed to overcome friction and with the total force being the same less remains to press the wheel against the hub.
If you have worked with stainless steel bolts and nuts you know to always use a thread lube compound, stainless steels bolts and nuts have a habit of welding together pretty easy.
And it is welding, at contact point the friction gets so high it develops enough heat to melt steel.
Wheel studs are steel, not stainless, but a bit of lube helps.
I do keep the ball shaped seat - on the nut and wheel - clean.
Just lube the threads.
Using an antiseize or grease on the lugs will substantially increase the torque applied, I always use dry, clean lugs.
I mean, when the wrench clicks at 110Nm, that IS the torque applied.
The torque wrench measures the force you, the operator, apply to it.
Force X arm length = torque.
The difference in using lubed or dry thread is that with dry threads more of the force is needed to overcome friction and with the total force being the same less remains to press the wheel against the hub.
If you have worked with stainless steel bolts and nuts you know to always use a thread lube compound, stainless steels bolts and nuts have a habit of welding together pretty easy.
And it is welding, at contact point the friction gets so high it develops enough heat to melt steel.
Wheel studs are steel, not stainless, but a bit of lube helps.
I do keep the ball shaped seat - on the nut and wheel - clean.
Just lube the threads.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,337
Likes: 1
From: Gods Speed #57 Lemons #77
Originally Posted by SpitfireS,May 20 2009, 02:49 PM
TubeDriver Posted on May 20 2009, 06:56 PM
How?
I mean, when the wrench clicks at 110Nm, that IS the torque applied.
The torque wrench measures the force you, the operator, apply to it.
Force X arm length = torque.
The difference in using lubed or dry thread is that with dry threads more of the force is needed to overcome friction and with the total force being the same less remains to press the wheel against the hub.
If you have worked with stainless steel bolts and nuts you know to always use a thread lube compound, stainless steels bolts and nuts have a habit of welding together pretty easy.
And it is welding, at contact point the friction gets so high it develops enough heat to melt steel.
Wheel studs are steel, not stainless, but a bit of lube helps.
I do keep the ball shaped seat - on the nut and wheel - clean.
Just lube the threads.
How?
I mean, when the wrench clicks at 110Nm, that IS the torque applied.
The torque wrench measures the force you, the operator, apply to it.
Force X arm length = torque.
The difference in using lubed or dry thread is that with dry threads more of the force is needed to overcome friction and with the total force being the same less remains to press the wheel against the hub.
If you have worked with stainless steel bolts and nuts you know to always use a thread lube compound, stainless steels bolts and nuts have a habit of welding together pretty easy.
And it is welding, at contact point the friction gets so high it develops enough heat to melt steel.
Wheel studs are steel, not stainless, but a bit of lube helps.
I do keep the ball shaped seat - on the nut and wheel - clean.
Just lube the threads.
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Posts: 67
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Originally Posted by TubeDriver,May 21 2009, 07:45 AM
Torque will remain the same but clamping force will almost double when antiseize is used which could/will eventually lead to nut/lug material failure.
That is the absolute opposite of true. A higher clamping load reduces the chance of a fatigue failure (provided you do not yield the fastener when tightening it).
Use anti-seize and a torque wrench, and everything will be alright.
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