WarrenW

Okay before you flame me, I did a search on how to wire the S for a trailer (Harbor Freight type for autox) and didn't find anything and I searched all 6 pages that came up on the results.

So...does a therad exist that explains how to wire the S for the trailer? I know it's not a difficult job, I just want to make sure I do it right and still have everything work.

Thanks,
Warren

glagola1

Well, basically, I can't remember what it's called but I had to buy a converter thing from U-Haul that allows for the two separate brake and turn signal wires to operate the single brake/signal lights of the trailer. Once you get that in your hands you'll see exactly what you have to connect. To find the right wires to tap into, I used a volt meter and turned on the blinkers to find those wires and then did the same for the brake wires.

A volt meter is your friend.

WarrenW

Thanks glagola1, I got that adapter today. If I have the right one (hope I do), the U Haul part # is 13486, called a "4 Way Flat Piggyback Plug With 3 to 2 Taillight Converter" for $16.95.

Warren

KAGED

It is pretty straight forward for someone who has previously installed a trailer wiring harness. I used a test light before splicing into any of the existing wiring. A helper is a must so that one person can apply the brakes, turn signals, and turn on the lights.

My wires are tucked up in that little cubby above the rear license plate. There is a grommet around there that will let you run the wires into the trunk.

I bought my wiring kit from etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/merchant...egory_Code=ELEB

If you are stuck and need some pics, then let me know.

WarrenW

Thanks KAGED. What did you use to connect the wires, those little blue connectors or did you cut then solder the connections? If you have pics that would be great for me and future users.

Thanks,
Warren

Scuba Driver

What a bummer this thread ended this way....

I'm sure the task of making a harness for a Harbor Freight trailer has been done by MANY people on this board. I wish there was a something in the DIY section with pics and steps. When I searched I thought from the topic of this thread I was all set. But it ended too early.

How about some pics from those of you that have already tackled this task.... ???

Thanks,
Jeff

Orthonormal

I bought a trailer wiring converter from Pep Boys. The brand is "Hoppy", and it was about $40-50. It's the type that isolates the car's lighting system from the trailer's lighting power. It requires a +12V connection to the battery to power the trailer lights.

The module is just the right thickness to fit behind the fiberboard liner on the aft wall of the trunk. I used the industrial strength velcro to attach it to the metal panel.

I ran the +12V wire from the positive terminal of the battery through the firewall and through the tunnel in the passenger side door sill (you have to remove the plastic kick panel), up into the tunnel behind the seat and next to the storage bin, and into the trunk. The fuse goes right at the battery terminal, not in the trunk! I connected the ground wire to one of the existing ground screws in the trunk, which the taillight uses.

There are four other connections to make:
Left turn signal (on the left side)
Right turn signal (on the right side)
Tail light (either side)
Brake light (either side)

You will have to unwrap the electrical tape on the tail light harness to access the wires.

I fed the trailer connector through the rubber grommet in the aft wall of the trunk. I am pretty sure that I had to cut the cable in half and re-solder it because the connector wouldn't fit through the hole.

The colors of the wires are in the shop manual. I highly recommend getting one if you're going to do much in the way of modifications or do any work on the car yourself.

daverx7

Thanks for sharing the gadget you used. I might have to look into switching to this.

I say this as on the way to an autoX, I had my lights and cruise control on and a freakin' deer started to consider getting on the interstate in front of me. I tapped the horn (upgraded from my '01 to the AP2's) a couple of times to change his mind, but it did not work. I then had to brake hard, mash the horn, and do some creative dodging. When I did this, my horn, cruise control and something else on my trailer stopped working as it blew a fuse. Doh! It really could have been worse!! :-)

Thanks again,

-Dave

Orthonormal

Interesting. It sounds like the horn and brake lights may be on the same circuit, just like they are on the Miata. A lot of people who upgraded their horns in their Miatas (including me) have blown fuses when braking and honking at the same time.

I would guess that the AP2 horn draws a little more current. I wonder if Honda increased the amp rating of the horn circuit for the AP2, or if they left the wiring the same.

Orthonormal

I did a little search, and what I have is probably the Hoppy 46255. I don't think that I have the "short proof" version, which is the 46365.