2500lb/300crank HP
How fast would it be? I've searched for statistics on the stock weight of our car, and they vary greatly from honda's acclaimed 2809 for the 2001, and 2810 for 2002. If the weight is closer to 2650-2700 with half a tank of gas like many owners have weighed theirs at, it would be fairly easy to shed 150-200lbs. HP is what will be expensive, seeing as i want to stay NA
But.... if they come out with a $4000 turbo.... it might change my mind. Ok..... so back to my origonal question, how fast would it be, how improved would the handling characteristics be if you could still maintain the 50/50 weight distribution? I would have to be running low 13's, comparable to a other wise stock SC'd S2000. The things i think of when i go to bed at night........
Brandon
But.... if they come out with a $4000 turbo.... it might change my mind. Ok..... so back to my origonal question, how fast would it be, how improved would the handling characteristics be if you could still maintain the 50/50 weight distribution? I would have to be running low 13's, comparable to a other wise stock SC'd S2000. The things i think of when i go to bed at night........
Brandon
I compiled a list of all the goodies that would reduce the weight, as of right now here's the list:
1. Spare tire and tools - 30lbs
2. Exhaust- 35lbs (Spugen N1-ti)
3. Header- 10lbs (DC sports)
4. Injen intake - 5lbs
5. LW battery - 13lbs (Odessy)
6. Remove AC- 25-40lbs
7. Remove windshield wiper pumps/fluid/resevour(whole system)- who knows how many lbs
8. 13'' front brakes - 25lbs (willwood)
9. 2 piece rear rotors - 10-20lbs??
10. Alluminum front and rear bumper frames - 20lbs
I didn't include wheels becuase i like my SSR GT1's just the way they are!
So, did i forget anything?
1. Spare tire and tools - 30lbs
2. Exhaust- 35lbs (Spugen N1-ti)
3. Header- 10lbs (DC sports)
4. Injen intake - 5lbs
5. LW battery - 13lbs (Odessy)
6. Remove AC- 25-40lbs
7. Remove windshield wiper pumps/fluid/resevour(whole system)- who knows how many lbs
8. 13'' front brakes - 25lbs (willwood)
9. 2 piece rear rotors - 10-20lbs??
10. Alluminum front and rear bumper frames - 20lbs
I didn't include wheels becuase i like my SSR GT1's just the way they are!
So, did i forget anything?
Well if you plan to go N/A and want 300 Crank HP, plan to spend a whole lot more than $4000, because that would entail new cams, upgraded valvetrain, an upgraded ECU, and possibly even higher compression forged pistons and rods. if you think Intake/header/exhaust will get you 60 HP...think again. and if you get the good stuff (read: lightweight=titanium/aluminum) plan to spend around 2500 just for those. As Colin Chapman said, for speed add lightness; I say, for straight line speed get a different car because the S is not a dragster. If you auto X get some sticky R compounds and lighten it up; faster through the corner is better than faster at the end of the straight as far as vehichle balance and dynamics are concerned. or if you are intent on making it a 1/4 mile machine, get a supercharger or turbo, and beef up the driveline. anyway you go, it'll be more than 4 g's. just a thought~_~
Quick2K
Quick2K
I have no illusions of getting 300 crank HP with I/H/E. I figure that will give me 10hp. I'm having high hopes when it comes to the spec 2 toda cams.... 20-30hp!! Add rear gears(doesn't affect HP but one of the best mods), and a VAFC and i'll be getting a good start. That should be around 280hp, and i MIGHT be happy with that. We'll see. As for the soft top motors, the idea is to keep the car as liveable as possible and still whip up on mostly everything
Brandon
Brandon
Originally posted by BrandonS
So, did i forget anything?
So, did i forget anything?

The whole interior.
I'm down to 2320 (that figure is with the rag top removed and mugen HT), I should be able to remove atleast another 150 before adding the cage.










