? about brakes. who can help?
ok here is my?
i want to gain better stopping power. don't need amazing not tracking the car but i do want something very aggresive for the street. which way would i be better off going?
just new pads? if this which ones do you recomend and why?
pads and slotted rotors? which ones and why?
or crossed drilled althought i'm pretty sure these are not good for street use on an S? which ones and why?
i would like to upgrade my rotors for a nice look behind my rims but its not my main goal. that is better stopping power. thanks for anyone who helps.
i want to gain better stopping power. don't need amazing not tracking the car but i do want something very aggresive for the street. which way would i be better off going?
just new pads? if this which ones do you recomend and why?
pads and slotted rotors? which ones and why?
or crossed drilled althought i'm pretty sure these are not good for street use on an S? which ones and why?
i would like to upgrade my rotors for a nice look behind my rims but its not my main goal. that is better stopping power. thanks for anyone who helps.
I am in the same situation as you....i do heavy street driving, and 1 or 2 times at the 1/4 mile....i ordered Power Slot Slotted Rotors, with Hawk Heavy Street/Light Track Pads for the front. I have them, but not on the car yet. I think something along the lines of this will be great.
I've found the stock rotors, with Porterfield R4S pads, and with either Motul 600 or ATE Super Blue fluid more than adequate for not only aggressive street driving, but for track driving too.
I've (as have others) got the brakes so hot on that the track that the dust seals at the caliper pistons have melted. The brakes never faded and the rotors are still fine.
Others have had problems with the Porterfield R4S, but to date I've been through 3 sets of fronts and 1 set of rears with no problems at all.
If I ran some brake ducts, I think I could keep my dust seals from melting, but now I know how to rebuild calipers, so it's not that big a deal.
When I rode in the King Motorsports car at Laguna Seca last year, I asked Jason about brakes. The race S2000 had brake ducting for cooling and was using stock rotors, stock calipers, racing fluid, and racing pads (I'm not sure which brand).
IMHO you don't really need a big brake kit, just good pads, racing fluid, and I just wish somebody would come out with a turn-key brake ducting solution at a reasonable cost.
I've (as have others) got the brakes so hot on that the track that the dust seals at the caliper pistons have melted. The brakes never faded and the rotors are still fine.
Others have had problems with the Porterfield R4S, but to date I've been through 3 sets of fronts and 1 set of rears with no problems at all.
If I ran some brake ducts, I think I could keep my dust seals from melting, but now I know how to rebuild calipers, so it's not that big a deal.
When I rode in the King Motorsports car at Laguna Seca last year, I asked Jason about brakes. The race S2000 had brake ducting for cooling and was using stock rotors, stock calipers, racing fluid, and racing pads (I'm not sure which brand).
IMHO you don't really need a big brake kit, just good pads, racing fluid, and I just wish somebody would come out with a turn-key brake ducting solution at a reasonable cost.
Pads and Fluid should do it. I use Carbotech Panther Plus pads at the track with Ate fluid and SS lines with stock rims/tires/rotors/calipers. Works great, but the pads throw a LOT of dust. These pads squeak a lot, and work best when warm, but I have 2000 street miles with them, no problems (other than dust and squeaks).
Street tires aren't really good enough for big-brake kits; the brakes will out-clamp your tires ability to maintain grip while slowing, if that makes sense. Don't get cross-drilled if you plan on auto-x or track events, you'll get cracks around the holes.
If you want to go faster, you can find some lighter rotors, but they probably won't help you stop much/any better than the stock ones. Check out the racing/competition forum, there are several good threads on brakes (what's good and why, with first-hand reports).
Street tires aren't really good enough for big-brake kits; the brakes will out-clamp your tires ability to maintain grip while slowing, if that makes sense. Don't get cross-drilled if you plan on auto-x or track events, you'll get cracks around the holes.
If you want to go faster, you can find some lighter rotors, but they probably won't help you stop much/any better than the stock ones. Check out the racing/competition forum, there are several good threads on brakes (what's good and why, with first-hand reports).
i would have done pads only, but my rotors are already warped, so i just did both....for everything it only cost me $280 shipped to my house! I will post pics once they are on and broken in!
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