About to buy! Is this rust problematic?
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From: KC
This is what I was thinking as well. I got rid of my old 95 M3 due to all the rust on the body/rear quarter panels. It was deep in there an not worth trying to cut away and fix. But if you can unbolt it and replace the rusty parts, then I don't think it is much to worry about.
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Most common body rust point on the s2k is the quarter panels, right above the fender lip. Check those areas very well for any signs of swelling and blistering. Those are not bolt on panels and require more extensive repairs. You also cannot see the rust from the inside of the panel as they are double skin panels. If the car really has 25,000 miles doubtful that is even a concern at all. It does appear to have more mileage just based upon the undercarriage but if it was ever stored outside for long periods that could explain that. But the rust shown under it is not really of concern.
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From: Foothills East of Sacramento
When you have the time, you may want to remove the subframe bolts one at a time (following Billman's method) and retorque them. You remove slowly by hand wrench until resistance is felt. Apply lubricant and go back up. Keep repeating until it is out. Apply anti-seize and retorque to spec. Then move on one by one. Why? It is possible to just remove a bolt under stress and snap the welded bolt in a cavity that is impossible to reach. The re-inserted bolt will just spin and not tighten. You will then have to cut into the frame to fix it.
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That rust, at that mileage, would ve explained by car being driven in winter salt a handful of times.
The control arms look rusty, but they're cast iron. They could be immersed in salt water for a lifetime and still be serviceable.
The bits of rust on edges of subframe, and the alignment adjustment bolts and subframe mounting bolts, this are all more of a concern.
In the classic car restoration community, there is a product called por 15. Some simple prep, then you coat right over the rust. Doesn't work on flaking rust, but all your rust would respond well to por 15.
Then remove and grease the mentioned bolts, reinstall. You'll be g2g.
The control arms look rusty, but they're cast iron. They could be immersed in salt water for a lifetime and still be serviceable.
The bits of rust on edges of subframe, and the alignment adjustment bolts and subframe mounting bolts, this are all more of a concern.
In the classic car restoration community, there is a product called por 15. Some simple prep, then you coat right over the rust. Doesn't work on flaking rust, but all your rust would respond well to por 15.
Then remove and grease the mentioned bolts, reinstall. You'll be g2g.
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Joined: May 2014
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Most common body rust point on the s2k is the quarter panels, right above the fender lip. Check those areas very well for any signs of swelling and blistering. Those are not bolt on panels and require more extensive repairs. You also cannot see the rust from the inside of the panel as they are double skin panels. If the car really has 25,000 miles doubtful that is even a concern at all. It does appear to have more mileage just based upon the undercarriage but if it was ever stored outside for long periods that could explain that. But the rust shown under it is not really of concern.
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