[QUOTE]Originally posted by shaner
[B]The BF Goodrich G-Force T/A KDW tires are better performance tires for wet weather (the 'D' after the K is for dry optimization and 'W' for wet)... My tires are the KD ones with large contact patches for dry.

 

Wesmaster,

I am using what they were using... Work Meisters + BF Goodrich G-forces... they switched

 

Hey Shaner, how does the KD perform compare to the OEM S02s? I know they are different sized due to your new rims but can you give your best description? Thanks.

 

Oooh, yes, please, how do they perform?

Wesmaster

 

The general thought on intake plumbing for a supercharger is that of course you want cold air and a ram air effect probably wont hurt. but you DO want the piping to stay as short as possible and fairly large diameter. Shaner, I see two problems with yours - too much piping, and the T has just a hard 90 degree angle in it where you should have a smoothed Y type collector to smooth the transition. Wesmaster, I can't say for sure on your setup, but I agree that that is the wrong way to use that inlet and I'd bet you're not getting THAT much colder air... and you are making more plumbing, which you want to avoid.

I can't say for sure these setups are bad, but if we were betting on the matter, I'd put my money on these two setups being negative hp mods.

 

So,

I guess to answer the question...

When I dyno, I will Dyno with the Comptech setup and with my setup and see which puts out more...

Will keep you all updated!

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Wesmaster
[B]

 

The hosing doesn't restrict the SC from only pulling air from the hose. It's not sealed, as I knew that would restrict the air flow. It's only funneling air from the front of the car, to the air box. The SC can pull just as much air, and from the same place as before, right in front of the air box. It's just that I'm routing cool air into that general area. Make sense? I would have to disagree that this causes negative HP.

Wesmaster

 

Hey guys... my grills are not consumer parts... I bought a sheet of 1/4" honeycomb perforated aluminum and made my own grill. I cut out the side vents and glued on grills.

The center piece was a total pain in the butt: I cut off the horizontal/verticle stock black grill (actually part of the bumpercover, just not painted) with a Dremel cut-off wheel, painted it silver, and then glued it back on while sandwiching my grill material in-between... turned out gorgeous and very strong/sturdy...

 

Sorry for the delayed response. Rev has done a good job of summing things up. On Wesmaster's setup, I'd have to say it could have a positive effect, and I doubt it will be negative because, as he said, it isn't a sealed system. The duct isn't placed ideally, but it will still funnel cool air into the hose (Wesmaster, if you want a selection of cheap ducts in a variety of shapes, sizes and types, give a call to Racer Wholesale).

Shaner, on yours, the big issue, as Rev said, is the T junction. A smooth Y would be nice and you can buy collectors (usually made of metal) pretty cheaply from Summit or other places. You could also route the tubes into a sphere, which acts as an almost lossless junction for airflow, although blending two flows into one with such a setup is not something I've seen, so I don't know if there would be an interference problem.

The reason you want large diameter piping is to create a high pressure area. If you're going to flow about the same amount of air to the charger (+/- a few %), then going to a smaller tube will mean higher velocity flow, which means lower pressure. A larger tube means lower velocity and higher pressure (I beleive that's Bernoulli's law). Of course, this is within reason. An infinitely big tube is no good as is an infinitely small one. But within an effective range of tube sizes, bigger would be better (maybe 3" diameter would work well).

UL