Another S2000 Powered Miata
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 4,766
Likes: 8
From: Queens, NY
I always said I think the Miata would be a good car if it had another 100 or so HP. Looks like you're well on your way. I like that idea of the sub-frame brace. Looks like you've thought this through. Good luck. Would love to see how this performs on the track, esp compared to the lap times of the stock Miata.
Warren
Warren
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
I want to say thanks for all of the positive feedback I have received!! As promised I said I would cover the steering rack, so here goes. After looking at some of the other peoples attempts at mounting the steering rack myself and my buddy, actually my buddy, came up with a great design. We used 2 pieces of 1.5 inch .120 tubing and mounted it to the tube frame bracket, fabbed up a couple of plates for the U-brackets to bolt to and mounted the rack.
We also built plates to close up the sub frame after it was cut. The passenger side of the sub frame was relieved more to allow for the exhaust to pass by. It took some work to close the sub fame up but I think you al will agree that it was worth the effort.
As I mentioned in one of my previous post, I want to be able to remove the engine and transmission through the top of the engine compartment and we have accomplished this! We elongated the mounting holes in the sub frame for the engine mounts, this allows for the studs to slide up and out of the sub frame with no binding whatsoever.
I think these will be strong enough! No need for any extra bracing with this design. We made sure that we set the brackets at the proper height to minimize bump steer issues. The engine tips and passes past the brackets with no clearance issues during removal.
This is taken from inside the transmission tunnel looking forward. To gain clearance for engine removal, unbolt the steering rack and the steering shaft and pivot it below the tube frame. Note the elongated holes that facilitate easy removal of the engine mount studs. You can also see the finished plates on the sub frame note how much the passenger side of the sub frame has been relieved for exhaust clearance.
Passenger side of sub frame; plated and ready for paint
Drivers side plated and ready for paint
Completed sub frame, not the elongated notches for the engine mounts
We also built plates to close up the sub frame after it was cut. The passenger side of the sub frame was relieved more to allow for the exhaust to pass by. It took some work to close the sub fame up but I think you al will agree that it was worth the effort.
As I mentioned in one of my previous post, I want to be able to remove the engine and transmission through the top of the engine compartment and we have accomplished this! We elongated the mounting holes in the sub frame for the engine mounts, this allows for the studs to slide up and out of the sub frame with no binding whatsoever.
I think these will be strong enough! No need for any extra bracing with this design. We made sure that we set the brackets at the proper height to minimize bump steer issues. The engine tips and passes past the brackets with no clearance issues during removal.
This is taken from inside the transmission tunnel looking forward. To gain clearance for engine removal, unbolt the steering rack and the steering shaft and pivot it below the tube frame. Note the elongated holes that facilitate easy removal of the engine mount studs. You can also see the finished plates on the sub frame note how much the passenger side of the sub frame has been relieved for exhaust clearance.
Passenger side of sub frame; plated and ready for paint
Drivers side plated and ready for paint
Completed sub frame, not the elongated notches for the engine mounts
