1. I don't drive the car hard but I'm afraid to take turns too quickly as the ass end slips out. Any ideas why ?

2. I have 5k on my stook and I don't get a really strong VTEC surge like I did before ny first oil change. The oil level is at H and I let the car warm up correctly before attempting VTEC. Any comments.

3. The dealer without my permision ran my stook through their car wash as a "favor". They even told me that they weren't going wash it beforehand. Anyway, the car wash brushes but a "burn" in the clear coat finish and although they buffed 90% of it out I can still see it. Is there any permanent damage done and should I attempt to get the remaining 10% out or will that erode the clear coat finish even more? Any comments?

Thanks

George

 

1. a).Inflate the tyres to 39psi; and/or b). more gently apply steering inputs.
2. The VTEC surge appears less because a). you are getting used to it; and b). the transition to VTEC is less pronounced as the VTEC actuator now slides more easily across and there isn't the pause or hesitation you were using to feeling before VTEC actuated.
3. Don't ask me - the car is for driving , not for looking at.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by 2kturkey
[B]1. a).Inflate the tyres to 39psi; and/or b). more gently apply steering inputs.
2. The VTEC surge appears less because a). you are getting used to it; and b). the transition to VTEC is less pronounced as the VTEC actuator now slides more easily across and there isn't the pause or hesitation you were using to feeling before VTEC actuated.
3. Don't ask me - the car is for driving , not for looking at.

 

Keep the tires at 32 psi cold. Wait for them to get some heat in them before driving agressive. Make sure the spring spacers have been removed from the dealership.

Drive smoothly. Keep off the brakes in a turn. Slow into the corner and accelerate out. The S2000 likes to be on the gas in the corners. That means accelerate gently through the turns as this will transfer weight back to the rear wheels and keep the car ballanced through the turns. Once you are used to it you can accelerate more and more until you can actually steer the car with the gas.

If the above does not cure your problem enroll in a good performance driving school.

 

The car should not be put through an automatic carwash with brushes because damage to the top can result. Whenever you have your car serviced, be very emphatic about not giving it the "free" wash. I would make sure that your service adviser writes this on the service order.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Dorian Gray
[B]1. I don't drive the car hard but I'm afraid to take turns too quickly as the ass end slips out.

 

Just a quick comment about tire pressures.

Taking Jason S. advice this past weekend I used 38/34 front/rear at the local autoX. It really did help balance the car and tame some of the oversteer problem. I wouldn't recommend 39 all around as the car in my opinion would become even less controlable.

Try the 38/34 setup and see what you think. A little side bonus is a little quicker steering turn in. I've left the car set up this way for the street and like it.

By the way....my car is stock.

 

I second what 2kturkey is saying. Raise your tyre pressures. I used to have my pressures at "low" 33/31psi (fron/back) and the back was very loose and it stepped out rather eazy. Now I have 35psi all the way around and the car is very different. Back grips a lot more and the whole thing feels more neutral.

ps. 39psi is not too much ... I know people that are running 40-45psi in their cars with lower profile tyres than ours ... actually, the lower the profile the more pressure you should have there.

 

Guys, the more air you got in them damn tyres the better. I was running 39psi all round at today's track event and was having problems again with understeer (front not wanting to stay turned in as opposed to back end sliding out).

My solution (which helped but didn't totally eliminate the understeer) was to pump up the fronts to 42 psi.

Another bonus of high inflation is longer tyre wear. If you run too low a pressure (i.e. anything under 36psi) you will wear out the outsides of the tyre tread before the inner. Using 36 psi and above means the tyre patch is flat to the ground and wears evenly.

If your tyre pressures are high enough the only time you should lose the back end is turning in quickly under braking - keeping the pressures high should mean you can perform nicely controlled four wheel drifts accelerating through turns with no risk of losing the back end.

 

George, everyone has different driving styles. Therefore, tire pressures are an individual thing. The factory recommendation should be your baseline. Then experiment using your own judgement or what-ever source you feel is crediable. Keep records. Don't think higher is always better. Tire experts and racers often disagree what's best for the circumstances. Make judgements only after the tires are up to proper operating temperature, never when cold. Give each experiment some time; don't be too quick to judge it. If possible use the same route for making the comparisons. Drive into the corners at speeds you are comfortable with so you can make a relaxed comparisons. Only after it feels right, should you move it up another notch for further testing. Good luck.