AUT Cooling Plate + K&N FIPK II
I've been searching high and low for those setup and I can't seem to find anyone that has it. I think I saw it once, but I can't seem to find it again. I keep on finding pics and the setup for the AUT Cooling Plate and the Stock Airbox... not with the K&N FIPK II.
Does anyone have pics or info on this setup? Is it any good? Is the AUT worth getting with the FIPK? Is it functional?
Thanks in advance,
Andre
Does anyone have pics or info on this setup? Is it any good? Is the AUT worth getting with the FIPK? Is it functional?
Thanks in advance,
Andre
Originally Posted by TimesNewRoman,Dec 26 2006, 07:45 AM
Here's my setup:






That's exactly what I was looking for... thanks man.
Andre
Well, as many have said before me, the K&N doesn't really seem to make a difference. It probably does to some very small extent, but you're basically paying for the sound. That being said, I'd still say it's worth it; the car really growls and sounds mean.
I can't say I've ever felt the car lose power, but the more I've been thinking about it (over the past couple of weeks), the more I think I'm going to cut off some of the outlet (the part that rises up to let air into the intake) on that AUT plate. Remember, the AUT plate with that outlet is designed specifically to wrap itself around the intake tube of the stock intake. I think now that I have that K&N sitting there, I may cut off about 1/3 of the outlet part that rises off the plate to let air into the intake, if only to make myself feel better.
I can't say I've ever felt the car lose power, but the more I've been thinking about it (over the past couple of weeks), the more I think I'm going to cut off some of the outlet (the part that rises up to let air into the intake) on that AUT plate. Remember, the AUT plate with that outlet is designed specifically to wrap itself around the intake tube of the stock intake. I think now that I have that K&N sitting there, I may cut off about 1/3 of the outlet part that rises off the plate to let air into the intake, if only to make myself feel better.
Originally Posted by TimesNewRoman,Dec 26 2006, 09:11 AM
Well, as many have said before me, the K&N doesn't really seem to make a difference. It probably does to some very small extent, but you're basically paying for the sound. That being said, I'd still say it's worth it; the car really growls and sounds mean.
I can't say I've ever felt the car lose power, but the more I've been thinking about it (over the past couple of weeks), the more I think I'm going to cut off some of the outlet (the part that rises up to let air into the intake) on that AUT plate. Remember, the AUT plate with that outlet is designed specifically to wrap itself around the intake tube of the stock intake. I think now that I have that K&N sitting there, I may cut off about 1/3 of the outlet part that rises off the plate to let air into the intake, if only to make myself feel better.
I can't say I've ever felt the car lose power, but the more I've been thinking about it (over the past couple of weeks), the more I think I'm going to cut off some of the outlet (the part that rises up to let air into the intake) on that AUT plate. Remember, the AUT plate with that outlet is designed specifically to wrap itself around the intake tube of the stock intake. I think now that I have that K&N sitting there, I may cut off about 1/3 of the outlet part that rises off the plate to let air into the intake, if only to make myself feel better.
Originally Posted by GranPrix,Dec 26 2006, 09:47 AM
How about heat soak? Any issues there? Is there any heat bogging?
Actually... there were two seperate occasions where it was dyno proven... both by K&N and just a general person and they both netted the same result... 9.5 whp at 6500 RPM. The only thing I'm worried about is if that holds true after running the car for some time and the under hood temp starts to rise.
Andre
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Hey TimesNewRoman...
Did you have to remove the radiator to put the AUT plate in? I read somewhere that someone removed the radiator to install it in but I always thought it was a direct bolt-on?!?!?!?
Andre
Did you have to remove the radiator to put the AUT plate in? I read somewhere that someone removed the radiator to install it in but I always thought it was a direct bolt-on?!?!?!?
Andre
To my knowledge, I haven't ever experienced heat bog. I think it's kind of hard to quantify that sort of thing when we're dealing with such a small, low-torque producing engine. It may be an issue when coming off of the line, when the car is not moving, but that's going to be an issue anyway with this car since the engine doesn't make a lot of torque, there's a clutch delay valve and oh yeah, the engine doesn't make a lot of torque. Once you get moving, though, I don't see it being much of a problem.
However, I can say that as per the pictures, the K&N FIPK does come with a heat shield (that box around the filter is metal), and if you look closely it comes with a rubber seal that seals it flush with the bottom of the hood when closed, which leaves the filter open only on two sides facing away from the engine. A cube has six sides, so only two of those are actually open for the filter. How effective this actually is, I can't say.
As far as installing the AUT plate, it's pretty straightforward, though a bit frustrating. I installed mine without removing the radiator (completely unnecessary) or the front bumper (might have been helpful). If you pop your hood and look at where the AUT plate will go, you'll notice there's something similar already there from the factory, albeit quite a bit smaller and mounted lower down behind the bumper. This will need to be removed first, and the retaining clips holding it in place can be a bitch and a half to get to (this is where removing the bumper may come in handy, but I'm not sure since I didn't go that route). Also, I've heard of people having issues with their hoods closing (or not closing) once the place is installed, but this was never an issue for me.
However, I can say that as per the pictures, the K&N FIPK does come with a heat shield (that box around the filter is metal), and if you look closely it comes with a rubber seal that seals it flush with the bottom of the hood when closed, which leaves the filter open only on two sides facing away from the engine. A cube has six sides, so only two of those are actually open for the filter. How effective this actually is, I can't say.
As far as installing the AUT plate, it's pretty straightforward, though a bit frustrating. I installed mine without removing the radiator (completely unnecessary) or the front bumper (might have been helpful). If you pop your hood and look at where the AUT plate will go, you'll notice there's something similar already there from the factory, albeit quite a bit smaller and mounted lower down behind the bumper. This will need to be removed first, and the retaining clips holding it in place can be a bitch and a half to get to (this is where removing the bumper may come in handy, but I'm not sure since I didn't go that route). Also, I've heard of people having issues with their hoods closing (or not closing) once the place is installed, but this was never an issue for me.
Installation of AUT plate: I agree with above. A b!tch to take off the stock little radiator cover. I installed mine without having to break off one of the plastic clips, but with my mate's we had to break one.
Heat bog: I've got that setup and I do get heat bog. It occurs when I'm sitting idle in traffic, in a hot day and then try to accelerate when the light goes green. Your rev's go low and the car almost deels like it about to stall if you don't give enough throttle. The hot air accumulates in the box and the intake gets one big suck of hot air. But after you get moving its all ok.
But to tell you the truth i found its pretty much the same as when I used to have the original stock airbox. I had a lot of bogging with stock as well. So theres no increase or decrease in heat bogging either way.
The setup is fantastic even if it gives minimal gains. ONly thing, the engine bay is really empty now.
Heat bog: I've got that setup and I do get heat bog. It occurs when I'm sitting idle in traffic, in a hot day and then try to accelerate when the light goes green. Your rev's go low and the car almost deels like it about to stall if you don't give enough throttle. The hot air accumulates in the box and the intake gets one big suck of hot air. But after you get moving its all ok.
But to tell you the truth i found its pretty much the same as when I used to have the original stock airbox. I had a lot of bogging with stock as well. So theres no increase or decrease in heat bogging either way.
The setup is fantastic even if it gives minimal gains. ONly thing, the engine bay is really empty now.




