Auto Dimming Mirror-Final Report
Finished my install of auto-dimming mirror (ADM) with compass and outside air temperature (OAT) display. Here's the complete story for those interested.
1. Purchase mirror for 96-02 Miata from Serious Auto (www.seriousauto.com), part # 11-02074-01 for $199 plus shipping ($100 if you don't want compass and OAT features). It's made by Electro-Chrom and that's the cheapest price I've found.
2. Remove OEM mirror. Remove mounting bracket from W/S by heating with propane torch to soften adhesive while twising with vice grips. If sqeamish about this (I was) take to an automotive glass place and ask them to do it. They did it for me for free (I tipped him $10) in about 5 minutes after warning me they would not be responsible if W/S cracked.
3. Go to NAPA store. Buy a windshield mirror mounting kit for CHRYSLER products, part # 730-2023 for $3.99. While you are there buy a mirror adhesive kit for $2.99 (#765-1184) just in case the mount doesn't stick the first time (trust me). Do NOT buy the hard plastic mounting kit that Pep Boys sells. The mirror will rattle. You need the metal "button" like comes in the NAPA kit.
4. Install the new metal button per instructions on the kit. When you remove the old mounting button there is a black rectangle on the glass. I installed the new button with top edge even with top edge of black rectangle.
5. Install new mirror on the new button. Don't overtighten screw.
6. Remove left W/S pillar trim (it snaps off). Remove sun visors. Remove lens for interior light (slot to insert screw driver in front edge-it snaps off). Remove interior light assembly (2 screws) and let it dangle. Snap off W/S header trim. Route wiring along header and left pillar down to underside of dash. Replace trim pieces and interior light and visors.
7. Wiring is pretty straighforward. Just a 12v switched lead, a ground, and wires for OAT. I didn't bother with the wire that connects to back-up light circuit. For OAT, look for rubber grommet coming thru firewall that is for a large wiring harness. Cut or punch a hole in the grommet and feed the OAT wires thru. Route along left fender, beside radiator to front grill. The OAT sensor has a clip on it that you can clip on one of the grill slats.
8. Turn on ignition to make sure it works. Calibrate compass per included instructions and enjoy. Total installation time about 2 hours and total cost about $225. I LOVE it.
1. Purchase mirror for 96-02 Miata from Serious Auto (www.seriousauto.com), part # 11-02074-01 for $199 plus shipping ($100 if you don't want compass and OAT features). It's made by Electro-Chrom and that's the cheapest price I've found.
2. Remove OEM mirror. Remove mounting bracket from W/S by heating with propane torch to soften adhesive while twising with vice grips. If sqeamish about this (I was) take to an automotive glass place and ask them to do it. They did it for me for free (I tipped him $10) in about 5 minutes after warning me they would not be responsible if W/S cracked.
3. Go to NAPA store. Buy a windshield mirror mounting kit for CHRYSLER products, part # 730-2023 for $3.99. While you are there buy a mirror adhesive kit for $2.99 (#765-1184) just in case the mount doesn't stick the first time (trust me). Do NOT buy the hard plastic mounting kit that Pep Boys sells. The mirror will rattle. You need the metal "button" like comes in the NAPA kit.
4. Install the new metal button per instructions on the kit. When you remove the old mounting button there is a black rectangle on the glass. I installed the new button with top edge even with top edge of black rectangle.
5. Install new mirror on the new button. Don't overtighten screw.
6. Remove left W/S pillar trim (it snaps off). Remove sun visors. Remove lens for interior light (slot to insert screw driver in front edge-it snaps off). Remove interior light assembly (2 screws) and let it dangle. Snap off W/S header trim. Route wiring along header and left pillar down to underside of dash. Replace trim pieces and interior light and visors.
7. Wiring is pretty straighforward. Just a 12v switched lead, a ground, and wires for OAT. I didn't bother with the wire that connects to back-up light circuit. For OAT, look for rubber grommet coming thru firewall that is for a large wiring harness. Cut or punch a hole in the grommet and feed the OAT wires thru. Route along left fender, beside radiator to front grill. The OAT sensor has a clip on it that you can clip on one of the grill slats.
8. Turn on ignition to make sure it works. Calibrate compass per included instructions and enjoy. Total installation time about 2 hours and total cost about $225. I LOVE it.
Originally posted by BEC71
Can you post a pic?
Can you post a pic?
Thanks for the thorough write-up! I've been contemplating switching to a dichromic mirror, but have delayed doing so beacause of the following concern.
How does the size and location of the aftermarket mirror compare to those for the OEM mirror? I ask because I sit high in the car and the OEM mirror already blocks my view to the right. If the aftermarket mirror sits any lower, that would block more of my view.
How does the size and location of the aftermarket mirror compare to those for the OEM mirror? I ask because I sit high in the car and the OEM mirror already blocks my view to the right. If the aftermarket mirror sits any lower, that would block more of my view.
Does not fit any lower. Mirror is roughly same size as OEM. Actually the new mirror has a double swivel mount (2 ball joints) and can actually sit slighly higher. That is you can adjust it so that it almost touches the W/S header.
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A co-worker had an '02 Sebring Coupe. It had an auto dimming mirror with compass and outside temperature. The good thing was the display was amber, a perfect match for our dash instead of green.
I asked him if I could have it since his father in law owned the car dealer (mirror not the car) and he said no... go figure...
I asked him if I could have it since his father in law owned the car dealer (mirror not the car) and he said no... go figure...
Hi, For someone less electrically savvy like me, could someone please provide a bit more detail about the "business end" of connecting the wires, particularly to power and ground, perhaps with some pictures?
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