No lights on dash <cel>code

 

- clean the idle air control valve
- make sure the map sensor (on top the throttle body is plugged in all the way)
- perform a full idle relearn

 

also hold at 3k and tap map sensor 20 times

 

No CEL, and battery is at 70%

 

Update guys. I did the IACV clean. The guy had only 1 bolt holding it on there I dont have the other OEM bolt so I am using a similar sized one. Also there was a ton of black gunk I cleaned it out and I'm gonna do an idle relearn proceedure, wish me luck.





After I cleaned it:

 

So far car seems better. The idle is still a bit weird. When I come to a stop in neutral it goes below 1,000rpm (Maybe around 800?) and the engine shakes a tiny bit. When I park the car and it sits there idling it makes a odd clatter sound every few seconds.

EDIT: I just read it's possibly a bad timing chain tensioner (supposedly very common on these cars) and you can sand the "worm" nut to fix it I guess.

 

I went ahead and ordered a new timing chain tensioner and some new spark plugs online just to get those out of the way.

The oil looks good but I'll go ahead and do all the fluids too. What else should I check? Valve adjustment? I guess I can have them check the intake intake retainers while they are in there adjusting the valves.

In the back of my head it's starting to bug me that I used a non-oem bolt to reconnect that IACV part do you feel that will be an issue? It bolted on perfectly with no resistance from the bolt seems to fit snugly like the other OEM bolt. I didnt torque them because I dont have a torque wrench.

 

Did it sound like the TCT needed replaced? Spark plugs are a great idea as is a valve adjustment. Are you comfortable taking the valve cover off to check the retainers and adjust the valves? If not, have someone help you or pay to have it done. Also, if you are going to be working on your car yourself, go get a torque wrench...even if its just a cheap one.

 

A really simple way to check thread pitch is to lay the bolt's threads against a known good bolt. It will be immediately obvious if the threads match.

Do a valve adjustment - they tend to tighten up over time and eventually the valves won't properly seat.

I agree with cgarrett23 that you should get a torque wrench - but understand the limitation. One that can accurately torque wheel nuts is not going to be accurate at low torque such as you need for the TCT. Also, cheap ones are likely to have a significant error. A simple way to do your own garage calibration is to clamp the square driver in a bench vice and use a luggage scale like to pull on the handle. Luggage scales are more accurate than a low cost mechanical torque wrench. I bought a $40 amazon special to leave with my track tools and it reads around 12% high. Knowing that, I set it accordingly.

 

If the weather changed drastically from when you first drove it and it was fine, then that may cause an erratic idle. Make the car relearn.
Do the MAP "whack". Take the MAP sensor out GENTLY, and note that there's a small hole under the sensor drilled into the throttle body, that can become clogged and cause a stupid idle.
Pull any codes, even if the light isn't on.
Confirm that your gas isn't shit.
That rattle could be the tensioner, or the catalytic converter.
Adjust valves... they get tight and cause a stupid idle and misfires.

Anyway, the car doesn't sound like a lost cause, it just sounds like it hasn't been driven for a while.