But you can't get more than 250 or so with the f20 or f22. My 8k spent on my turbo setup will walk a C6 Z06. Try doing that with an N/A budget of 8K...

All of the N/A advocates all have 13+ second cars - they talk about how responsive N/A is and how peak power for power that N/A is better but at the end of the day, my car is the one thrashing around every other car on the road...

 

I'm sorry bro but I gotta disagree with you. With my ls/vtec N/A I had 220whp without the head port and polished, or big cams, aftermarket valve train, or cam gears. That car was capable of running low 12's.

Now the f20 stock comes with 240hp. There is no way that you can only get 250whp in that motor with an N/A setup. I have seen 300+whp from this motor. And running mid to low 11's in the 1/4 mile. Remember I built an N/A motor. I know what they are capable of.

Now take a 310whp N/A motor and take a 380whp FI if not more the N/A will be spanking it all day.

 

Ok... show me your magical 300+ whp N/A S2000. InlinePRO has one but it's a 2.7 litre. And yes, the F20 is only really capable of 250 or so unless you're looking at spending close to 20K. We're talking about wheel horsepower here, of which the S2k only has 200 or so.

I'm talking about reality here. There are people all over this board that scream about how awesome N/A is, but the only mods they have are a cold air intake and maybe some dual exhaust. Then they'll splurge on a header and Vafc one day and only make 220 hp and end up with a mid 13 car. The fastest time slip I've seen on a N/A s2k is 13.0.

But for under 10 grand, you can have a 500 rwhp monster with a turbo setup and there is just NO comparison with ANY N/A setup that you can get with this car. Again, 13.0 is the fastest time slip that I've seen for natural aspiration. Show me a time slip to prove me wrong.

 

here's a question for you "heat soak" guys. You say the stock intake with the box open is bad because of heat soak, a lot of guys say the arc heat soaks too. but how can you not think that the K&N doesn

 

The K&N is place further away than the stock box and is sealed against the hood. It draws cold air from outside through that hole in the fender.

The stock airbox draws hot air from within the engine bay. A snorkel or ducted cooling plate (i.e. AUT, Garage Defend) can help alleviate this.

A really good setup would be K&N + Cooling Plate.

If you want to do some of your own testing get something that you can monitor your IAT with (I'm using a Greddy Informeter).

I'm personally using a gutted airbox + drop in filter + cooling plate.

If heatsoak is a major issue to you; look into a Hondata IMG

 

Ok if you go to Import Tuner they built a 294whp only staying at 2.3 liters. You can do it and I bet they put about $12000 in it if that much.

Now I don't know about s2000's that much but I know you can build an N/A motor to run low 12's.

Now I ain't gonna knock FI because that is what I am going to do to my s2000 because I already built an all motor honda.

I wanna feel the difference. This is actually a debate that has been going on for a long time and personally it is all about what you prefer.

Can I ask afwfjustin have you ever drove a fully built honda motor? Doesn't matter which one just any.

I'm not on hear to make enemies just trying to learn and to bring knowledge from my past honda builds.

 

Ever heard of Mike Rush from Delaware, Ohio? The last N/A S2k motor he built put down 345whp on the dyno. I won't give away everything but here are some of the major specs:
- custom sleeves, pistons, rods, manifold, and exhaust
- 12.5:1 compression
- crower 280 cams
- 52mm ITBs
- AEM EMS
- C16 race gas
- MILD head work

He told me with full head work he could pull at least another 20whp if not more depending on the tune. I guarentee that car will walk any turbo S2k under 430whp. I have a car that runs low 13s (street tires) with intake, TB, cams, custom exhaust, a tune, and some weight reduction. Throw a set of ITBs and a hytech manifold on my car and I will be in the low 12s. Also, I would put my 270whp ITB car up against a 350whp turbo car at Mid Ohio for pink slips any day.

For anybody that calls BS on me, I watched the motor being built, I was there when it was dynod and tuned, and I saw the correction factor on the screen. I've built everything from an all motor ITR to a 9 second DSM at 35psi. I think you're completely underestimating the power NA motors can produce, and you're one of the people running around with a "boost gets you laid" decal thinking turbos own all. Shoot a valve out your exhaust pipe at 9k RPM or blow a coupling through your CF hood at 28psi and then talk smack about how amazing turbos are.

 

I have the K&N. Quiet when cruising but really nice sound on VTEC. It also improved my gas mileage by 1-1.5 MPG.

 

Nowhere in my post did I have a negative tone - and nowhere did I say that there was not an S2k that could not run lower than 13 sec N/A. I said that I had never heard of one and asked someone to show me otherwise.

Alright, so he has a 345 whp N/A s2k. How much would it cost the average person to get there?

As for you being able to go from low 13s to low 12s with only itbs and a hytech header How much are you putting down right now?

As for that 345whp s2k that you said that any turbo S under 430 could not touch, you can make 430 EASILY with any off-the-shelf tubular manifold kit. Turbos get it done cheaper and easier. Lovefab kit with 15 psi and a headgasket = ownage. And I don't know where your valve/coupler comments came from - I don't even have a cf hood...

 

The best performing set up I have tried and ended up with is the stock gutted intake with drop in KN and costom ram air from the grill. This is a true cold air intake and keeps the factory tuned intake charge and velocity that a closed box can. Don't waist your money to gain noise and loose power.