Spoon has a nice set up for our S2000. I looked into it a while back then decided to keep my factory brakes because my S2000 will never be fast enough to need upgraded brakes in my opinion.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by kster
[B]I hope everyone realizes that cross-drilled and slotted rotors actually weaken the rotor and make it more prone to cracking under high heat conditions, such as at a race track. If you want to lower the brake pad temperatures, you have to either add a cooling mechanism or add mass to the rotor so it can better absorb the heat.

 

BTW, the Wilwood setup looks good, and is good value for the money.



BTW, they fit under the stock wheels.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by S2kRob
[B]

That isn't quite true.

 

You're right about the tires, however, with the bigger rotors you will be able to better modulate the brakes when threshold braking without engaging the ABS. So, it is possible you can still reduce your braking distance.

You're also right about the reduced surface area of the cross drilled brakes. However, when a brake pad gets really, really hot, it begins to vaporise. These released gases have to go somewhere, and there is the possibility that they will form a fluid layer in between the pad and the rotor, reducing stopping power. The holes or slots in the rotor allow these gasses to vent away.

 

Before anybody buys new rotors for the s2k, I'd suggest you read the first four or five pages of this HUGE thread:

http://www.altimas.net/forum/showthread.ph...2327&perpage=15

The thread is very long but is also very educational.

 

This topic is a heated one. You will hear all positives and negatives from both sides of the field. There are however, many myths regarding cross drilled brake rotors. The first one being that cast rotors are stronger than blank rotors that have been drilled. This is not true. I forgot which thread it was written in, but one of our own board members who works for Brembo cleared this issue already. Neither one is more prone to cracking than a factory rotor. If you dont believe me, just ask a few of the guys that are running Panther brake pads. I have personally seen these pads crack factory OEM rotors, without any drills or slots. The one thing to keep in mind about the cross drills are the radius chamfferred (sp) edges of the holes. Chamffered edges actually help in keeping the rotors structural integrity. Many of the problems with these rotors that have occurred, have come from one of two problems. First and most obvious, the rotor used is one that contains little carbon alloy. The second problem occurrs when the holes are not chamfferred. Rotors usually crack when they are close to minimum thickness.

Whats the point of all this? Every application and every person demands different characteristics from their cars. Some race, some drive on the street, whatever. Before i sell any brake parts to anyone, i always ask what they are looking for. It is true that slots wear your pads out faster, but at the same time, they assist in stopping the car better. Point being, there is a trade off to everything. You give to get. I have had cross drilled and slotted rotors on most of my cars and have never cracked a rotor. I also have a turbo miata with over 200 horsies to the wheels with a brake set up similar to my wilwood set up. No cracks at all. BTW, the miatahas spent ample time on the track.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by S2kRob
[B]You're right about the tires, however, with the bigger rotors you will be able to better modulate the brakes when threshold braking without engaging the ABS.

 

When designing a big brake kit many factors must be taken into consideration . We designed the Pinnacle kit to take advantage of all aspects of brake performance . We could have used cheaper components to reduce the cost , but performance was the goal . The two piece front rotors are true racing pieces , forged aluminum hats and thermally treated racing directional rotors , We use stainless steel bushing to mount rotors to the hat and safety wired high strength bolts to retain rotors to the hat. The forged hats are nickel plated to protect aluminum from brake dust and any abuse under racing conditions . We have not drilled the front rotors because the reduction in weight ,would not offset the rotors ability to handle more abuse . Cross drilled rotors do not promote cooling , slightly reduce weight , do effect the structural integrity of cast iron rotors , might clean leading edge of brake pads and will relieve out gassing of pads , if it were present in new racing pads , which it is not. Cast holes might reduce cracking over drilled holes , the only company that probably casts holes is Porsche. The only advantage to cross drilled rotors is weight reduction , but at a cost of reduced structural integrity of the rotor . If you have modern brake pads vaporizing , you have the wrong pads on the car and the holes are not going to fix the problem . Also slotting the rotors fill the job of cleaning the leading edge and venting the pads with no structural problems . We added the slots in our front rotors for looks , we found no advantage with or with out them . You can read all the advertisements for cross drilled rotors , it is all " BS" . If you want rotors with holes buy them , if that is the look you want fine , but don't tell people how much they improved your braking , they won't .

I read through the post altimas.net a few of the people had most of the information on braking close to correct , but the entire picture was never posted . Most of the discussion was rice vs racing .

Cast iron rotors are cast in a foundry . the metal is poured in a mold , as the rotor cools the rotor builds up stresses in the material . any direction change or modification to its shape will allow the rotor to develop stress cracks . What companies do to increase the service life of racing rotors is thermally treat their rotors before and after machining . This involves heating rotor to very high levels and reducing the temperatures to very low levels (cryo) . Most companies that sell racing rotors are not going to explain their process because each one has developed what they think is the best process.

The caliper that we use in our kit is also forged , it is designed with stiffness and light weight as the number one priority . The S-2000's master cylinder has a fixed amount of fluid that it can handle , this includes the ABS . To increase the clamping force you need to increase the piston area of the caliper , to keep the same brake petal height you need to remove the flex in the brake system to allow the same amount of petal movement to move larger pistons . The forged aluminum caliper , also is much stronger under high temperatures , reducing fluid requirements under racing conditions . Most racing cars using cheap calipers use larger master cylinders or live with petal height problems.
Two of the cars that have our kit installed ,do a lot of track time , Prolene and davepk , Daves car is SC'ed . Both I am sure have abused the braking system with no stopping problems , no fade problems , no wear problems and no heat problems . Both cars also have the Pinnacle light weight rear rotor , that many people said , would not work on the street , and it is working great on the track. No over heating problems , and no air ducts.

Also one other area to clear up . larger rotors will not help you modulate the brakes better . It requires the entire brake system to accomplish this task . Pads and the caliper will have a much greater impact on modulation than rotor diameter , especially when going from a 11.98 to a 12.19 .

If you call any racing rotor distributor , AP racing , Coleman Racing , even Brembo you will find that they do not recommend cross drilled cast iron rotors for racing applications . They all will supply rotors with holes ,because people want them for looks , but they will not improve performance.


brad

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by docofmind
[B]

S2KROB,