Breaking in the new replacement OEM Clutch?
Any special way?
I know not to launch, and I haven't... I have been shifting quick and downshifting like normal though, with occasional under rev-matching... (clutch catch-up for about 400-500rpm)
I hope I am not effecting the long-term life of the clutch... spread some light!
I know not to launch, and I haven't... I have been shifting quick and downshifting like normal though, with occasional under rev-matching... (clutch catch-up for about 400-500rpm)
I hope I am not effecting the long-term life of the clutch... spread some light!
Drive it gently for about 500 miles. There are ways to break it in quicker, but you have to be EXTREMELY careful not to burn the clutch.
Ways to break it in a little quicker involves holding the foot on the brake pedal while SLIGHTLY engaging the clutch. (enough to bring the revs down, but not stall the engine). You only want to do this for 5 or so seconds at a time, and give it a good cooldown time (about 1-2 minutes) before you do it again. There are other ways, but it is so easy to screw up and burn the new clutch disc and/or flywheel that I am not going to bother describing it on here because it can be easily misinterpreted and you have to be *VERY* in tune with how a car communicates back to you. You have to be extremely in-tune with how the clutch will feel when it starts to get too hot and fade. The slightest hint of that, and you will want to stop immediately.
Driving in stop and go traffic is a good way to get a clutch broken in quickly, but again, it is VERY easy to burn the clutch with improper use of the clutch. I've seen people that have 'driven standards for years' that have shitty technique (revving the engine too high before engaging the clutch, etc) and constantly go through clutches. I race my cars and drive quite hard and have yet to EVER have a clutch disc wear out on me to the point it needed replacing (even well after 100k miles on a stock OEM clutch on a turbo CRX with a larger-than-stock engine).
Ways to break it in a little quicker involves holding the foot on the brake pedal while SLIGHTLY engaging the clutch. (enough to bring the revs down, but not stall the engine). You only want to do this for 5 or so seconds at a time, and give it a good cooldown time (about 1-2 minutes) before you do it again. There are other ways, but it is so easy to screw up and burn the new clutch disc and/or flywheel that I am not going to bother describing it on here because it can be easily misinterpreted and you have to be *VERY* in tune with how a car communicates back to you. You have to be extremely in-tune with how the clutch will feel when it starts to get too hot and fade. The slightest hint of that, and you will want to stop immediately.
Driving in stop and go traffic is a good way to get a clutch broken in quickly, but again, it is VERY easy to burn the clutch with improper use of the clutch. I've seen people that have 'driven standards for years' that have shitty technique (revving the engine too high before engaging the clutch, etc) and constantly go through clutches. I race my cars and drive quite hard and have yet to EVER have a clutch disc wear out on me to the point it needed replacing (even well after 100k miles on a stock OEM clutch on a turbo CRX with a larger-than-stock engine).
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thank you for your comment!! Greatly appreciated.
I'm not one to rev it up to 2000-2500 and slip it on every light to get going... it's usually at 1000-1200rpm.
I've been doing that, and have performed five 3500rpm quick slip launches... (and yes those launches suck, kinda bogs)
Also been shifting as fast as normal at 9k, however I don't see how that would harm the long term clutch life on a new clutch.
Can anyone else share their break-in techniques?
I'm not one to rev it up to 2000-2500 and slip it on every light to get going... it's usually at 1000-1200rpm.
I've been doing that, and have performed five 3500rpm quick slip launches... (and yes those launches suck, kinda bogs)
Also been shifting as fast as normal at 9k, however I don't see how that would harm the long term clutch life on a new clutch.
Can anyone else share their break-in techniques?
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