[QUOTE]Originally posted by rjm161
[B]Has anyone used the type of oil filter wrench that attaches to a 3/8" socket wrench and "cups" the bottom of the filter?When I say cups it....I mean perfectly....it is the same size and shape.

 

I finally finished my oil change. It didnt exactly go perfectly (oil came out quicker than I thought and missed my drain pan for a few seconds, couldnt get the filter off, didnt have a funnel to put new oil in, torque wrench I borrowed didnt fit my ratchet heads, etc) but after 4 hours I am finally finished! Hopefully it will go better next time when I have the right tools. Thanks a lot for all the help and suggestions.

 

I take about 2 hours to do an oil change. MIND YOU, 1.5 hours of it, I take off for a long lunch and do other chores while the oil drains (it really only needs to drain for about 15-30 minutes). When you get all your sh!t together, it should only take about 1/2 hour actual hands on.
BTW, in case this helps you for future oil changes:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...?threadid=65978

 

Using this style attachment on a torque wrench.



Torque the oil filter to the specification in the Helm manual, or what's printed on the side of the filter. Be sure to apply some fresh oil to the gasket first.

Anything else is amateur.

 

If you tighten the filter with the wrench you may end up mashing the rubber gasket down so tight on the base it could change it's shape and create a leak.You just need a good clean contact,the filter will tighten up as it heats.

 

Flying Wedge, xviper,

Thanks for the info. I am using the Honda end cap wrench like that shown in Destiny2002's post. I found this at HandA, and it works well. Also the Honda filters are numbered 1-8 around the base so that it makes it easy to index your 7/8 or 3/4 turn. At 3/4 turn, the filter was getting very snug and I was afraid of stripping the threads inside the filter. If that happens, the filter just spins on the threads when you try to remove it and its time to call the towing service. Flying Wedge, I see your point about mashing/distorting the rubber seal. I'm just a big chicken about leaving the filter hand tightened. However someone said that the filter and seal tighten with heating and it takes a wrench to remove a hand tightened filter. I just have this visual of the filter vibrating loose at 9K and a big oil slick on the road in the rear view!

 

I'm not going to tell you that this isn't possible because anything is possible but I think the chances are better of you getting hit by lightning. I can only speak for myself. Of the 33 autos and the few motorcycles that have had spin on filters, ALL filters were hand tightened and ALL filters needed a wrench to remove. None ever unscrewed from any of them. But if torquing it down to spec will help you sleep easy, by all means do it.

 

Install a cold air intake and a fumoto drain valve and most of your worries will be over. With the instake, the HUGE stock airbox is gone so you can easily reach the filter, and the drain valve allows you to open/close the oil pan with the flick of a finger. All of this can be done from above the car, no need to get jackstands, a jack, or a really skinny kid to crawl underneath.

 

littleton,I'm in the habbit of checking to see if the filter is tight everytime I check my oil,no need to really crank on it just a light twist and a quick wipe on the underside with a rag.

 

Just hand tight is fine. It's easier to get off later. Dip your finger in a fresh quart of oil and run it around the gasket to lube.