Castrol Syntec is better in S2000!?
#22
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Made first oil change at 5500 with Castrol GTX and switched to 5W/30 M1 only 2600 miles later for the winter. I haven't noticed ANY difference in my VTEC engagement...it's as insane as it ever was. I didn't VTEC until 800 miles and pretty much babied the car up to 1K. Lots of city driving so I didn't want to wait until 7-7500K on the odo for the removal of the break-in oil. Also, since switching to the synthetic, the oil consumption has gone down to zero. Just passed 9500 on the odo and check the oil at every other fill-up (I never put more than 1/2 tank in the car) and the dipstick continues to show no signs of oil consumption. In a few weeks, I'll moving away from M1 and synthetics altogether and I'm going with a 5W/30 cocktail of this:
http://www.oilextreme.com./moil1.html
My brother, aside from being a car nut like myself ('87 Buick GN) is a mechanical (and chemical) engineer and swears by this stuff so I'll give it a shot.
One more thing, take it from someone who used to use a stopwatch for testing purposes until I discovered accelerometers a few years ago. Handheld stopwatches might be fine for horse racing and 100-yard dashes but in the hands of humans, especially when you're talking tenths of seconds, they are woefully incapable of charting modification changes (time-wise) accurately. I used to think otherwise until I borrowed my friend's Vericom. After a weekend with that, I threw away my log book of stopwatch results.
Try the Tazzo. It's incredible. I sold my GTech after buying this.
www.tazzo.com
http://www.oilextreme.com./moil1.html
My brother, aside from being a car nut like myself ('87 Buick GN) is a mechanical (and chemical) engineer and swears by this stuff so I'll give it a shot.
One more thing, take it from someone who used to use a stopwatch for testing purposes until I discovered accelerometers a few years ago. Handheld stopwatches might be fine for horse racing and 100-yard dashes but in the hands of humans, especially when you're talking tenths of seconds, they are woefully incapable of charting modification changes (time-wise) accurately. I used to think otherwise until I borrowed my friend's Vericom. After a weekend with that, I threw away my log book of stopwatch results.
Try the Tazzo. It's incredible. I sold my GTech after buying this.
www.tazzo.com
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I'm sorry, that oilextreme site smacks of some serious 'snake oil' overtones. If the oil is so good, why the offer to let you sell it in some pyramid scheme? Also, they sell oil additives,and a gas additive that is 'non-toxic' and you put 2 oz in a tank of gas. a google of oilextreme found lots of hits along the lines of what Im saying.
On a different note, if you do a search on s2ki.com you'll find that castrol was the target of a lawsuit over their synthetic oil. Castrol won the right to call their 'synthetic' just that, but it apparently surprised a lot of oil experts.
-shon
On a different note, if you do a search on s2ki.com you'll find that castrol was the target of a lawsuit over their synthetic oil. Castrol won the right to call their 'synthetic' just that, but it apparently surprised a lot of oil experts.
-shon
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Mobil one is junk. My car runs better on Castrol GTX. Amsoil is the best synthetic I have tried. It makes the car idle smoother and cold starts seem less harsh in the winter time. It takes much longer for the oil to change color.
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Mobil 1 is used for jet aircraft engines.......if it is good enough for this purpose it is good enough for my S2K...Enough said.
Ooops, I actually had another comment....for the thread starter...do you also notice how much stronger your car pulls and how much more agressive it VTECS when you clean the windshield?
Ooops, I actually had another comment....for the thread starter...do you also notice how much stronger your car pulls and how much more agressive it VTECS when you clean the windshield?
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Originally posted by srlmartin
I'm sorry, that oilextreme site smacks of some serious 'snake oil' overtones. If the oil is so good, why the offer to let you sell it in some pyramid scheme? Also, they sell oil additives,and a gas additive that is 'non-toxic' and you put 2 oz in a tank of gas. a google of oilextreme found lots of hits along the lines of what Im saying.
I'm sorry, that oilextreme site smacks of some serious 'snake oil' overtones. If the oil is so good, why the offer to let you sell it in some pyramid scheme? Also, they sell oil additives,and a gas additive that is 'non-toxic' and you put 2 oz in a tank of gas. a google of oilextreme found lots of hits along the lines of what Im saying.
One thing about the internet...it can create as much MISinformation as it can inform. The opinions of motor oil are about as divisive as anything automobile-related. Some refuse to spend more for synthetics while there are those who won't buy anything but Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, etc. Usually for every negative comment about motor oil and lubricants, you'll find a positive one.
http://www.grmotorsports.com/stock%20tips.html
Most of the negative comments I've read over the past year regarding Oil Extreme come from two camps...those who haven't used it or those who are connected with selling competitive products. These days, there always seems to be an outline of skepticism (sp-?) when new lubrication products arrive on the scene. The first thing you'll find is a determination of their quality based on how cool their website appears, usually followed by some sort of price vs. quality analogy and no doubt capped off with the always dependable "if it's so good...." question. Ask yourself this. Would a race team who has the choice of using ANY motor oil risk its future on "snake oil?" It seems to be doing very well for Joe...hell, even his competitors are milling about asking for more information on this type of motor oil. My decision is based on conversations with race teams that are using it and those who have used it for the past year or two. I depend on the internet for my conspiracy theories, not "my motor oil can beat up your motor oil" threads, which litter every enthusiast site in existence.
BTW, I first discovered Oil Extreme by some LS1.com members who have been using it in their 500+ horsepower Camaro and Firebirds. I reserved judgement until I spoke with enough folks to fill a greyhound bus but more importantly, race teams who are using it. Hell, there are still some who think Amsoil and Neo Synthetics are in the same category.
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Originally posted by calpilot7
Mobil 1 is used for jet aircraft engines.......if it is good enough for this purpose it is good enough for my S2K...Enough said.
Mobil 1 is used for jet aircraft engines.......if it is good enough for this purpose it is good enough for my S2K...Enough said.
http://www.exxonelite.com/
That said, I do use Mobil 1 in my cars. No complaints.
#29
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From what I've read, most synthetics are made up of virtually identical molecules. Each molecule (except for the additives) are the same sized hydrocarbon, and therefore contribute the same viscosity to the mix as any other molecule. Dino oil is a range of molecules that give an average viscosity. Picture a statistical "bell curve" of the molecular weight and viscosity of the molecules in the oil. There are some short hydrocarbons, and some long hydrocarbons. The resulting oil has some of the properties of all of the hydrocarbons it is composed of. Unfotunately, the long hydrocarbons thicken the oil in colder temperatures, and the short hydrocarbons prevent the oils from coating the engine as well when the engine is idle.
Synthetic oils "act" differently in the engine. When the engine is cold, synthetics are more fluid, resulting in easier engine starts. And since friction in the engine is at its worst when you start your engine, synthetics do a better job of lubricating at start-up. Synthetics take longer to break down as well.
My past experience with synthetic oils suggests that it behaves like a thicker oil during normal operating temperatures. My wife had a vehicle with hydraulic valves once, and I tried using synthetic 10W40. The valves became very noisy. I switched back to dino 10W40, and the noise went away. I had an '80 Accord with a 2.0L engine that had noticeably less torque when using synthetics. I just attributed this to the synthetics doing a better job of coating everything.
I agree also with Russ: synthetics tend to consume less oil. Heavier weight dino oils do this as well.
Synthetic oils "act" differently in the engine. When the engine is cold, synthetics are more fluid, resulting in easier engine starts. And since friction in the engine is at its worst when you start your engine, synthetics do a better job of lubricating at start-up. Synthetics take longer to break down as well.
My past experience with synthetic oils suggests that it behaves like a thicker oil during normal operating temperatures. My wife had a vehicle with hydraulic valves once, and I tried using synthetic 10W40. The valves became very noisy. I switched back to dino 10W40, and the noise went away. I had an '80 Accord with a 2.0L engine that had noticeably less torque when using synthetics. I just attributed this to the synthetics doing a better job of coating everything.
I agree also with Russ: synthetics tend to consume less oil. Heavier weight dino oils do this as well.