Comptech diff and 4.57s FUBAR'D
Ckit, I'd like to know more about what you think percipitated your failure. Obviously the diff wasn't up to some task, for some reason, and it would be nice to know more.
LOL, I have a real need to understand, because I keep getting rougher and rougher with my own diff, because I have to keep proving to myself that it isn't really the POS some people say it is, and I'd really rather figure out what causes them to fail without having to destroy one in the process. What did you do that I'm not doing?
Have you determined exactly what part or parts failed?
LOL, I have a real need to understand, because I keep getting rougher and rougher with my own diff, because I have to keep proving to myself that it isn't really the POS some people say it is, and I'd really rather figure out what causes them to fail without having to destroy one in the process. What did you do that I'm not doing?
Have you determined exactly what part or parts failed?
UPDATE:
A tooth from the 4.57 pinion broke off and failed. Hence the cyclical thumping.
1. Wasn't the axle nut or wheel bearings /hub.
2. Wasn't the CV joints.
3. Wasn't the stock LSD.
Right about now, I'm sorry I "softened" my initial rant about the aftermarket 4.57s failing after 17k miles....
I am enjoying the renewed quietness of the cabin and the significantly better gas mileage during highway commuting.
4.57 gears FTL!!
A tooth from the 4.57 pinion broke off and failed. Hence the cyclical thumping.
1. Wasn't the axle nut or wheel bearings /hub.
2. Wasn't the CV joints.
3. Wasn't the stock LSD.
Right about now, I'm sorry I "softened" my initial rant about the aftermarket 4.57s failing after 17k miles....
I am enjoying the renewed quietness of the cabin and the significantly better gas mileage during highway commuting.
4.57 gears FTL!!
This is an isolated incident. It is not fair to call 4.57's bad or weaker than stock. The ratio of stock diff gears failing to 4.57's failing is still much greater. There are many owners running 4.57's problem free with much more than stock hp. If HTG is willing to work with you, send it back to him, have it fixed and if you dont want them anymore, sell that built diff to recoupe your costs.
I persoanlly run 4.44's. I bought them origainlly when they where still called J's and sold for $1000. Ive done a few track days and drag strip days. Im pretty sure I didnt break them in correctly. Im pushing 300whp and they are still going strong for about 4 years now.
Im changing to 4.57's soon for a little more acceleration.
I persoanlly run 4.44's. I bought them origainlly when they where still called J's and sold for $1000. Ive done a few track days and drag strip days. Im pretty sure I didnt break them in correctly. Im pushing 300whp and they are still going strong for about 4 years now.
Im changing to 4.57's soon for a little more acceleration.
I don't think they're weaker than stock.
They may be stronger than stock.
Just saying that they aren't immune to destruction.
And they were a weaker link than the stock LSD.
And they only lasted 17,000 miles.
They may be stronger than stock.
Just saying that they aren't immune to destruction.
And they were a weaker link than the stock LSD.
And they only lasted 17,000 miles.
Is that broken 4.57 diff going to be opened up?
If so, please take & post pictures.
If that diff is also taken apart, please find & post the serial # on the gear set.
If possible post the Richmond spec backlash and checking distance, both are engraved on the gears.
Also what shim was used?
Questions... questions... questions...
Thanks!
If so, please take & post pictures.
If that diff is also taken apart, please find & post the serial # on the gear set.
If possible post the Richmond spec backlash and checking distance, both are engraved on the gears.
Also what shim was used?
Questions... questions... questions...
Thanks!





