could it be that the titanium shiftknobs are not real titanium?
Skarv,
Magnesium, Beryllium and Titanium are all listed as flammable metals on the material data safety sheet. All three can't come into contact with water while in a molten state without causing an explosion.
I was using an inert shielding gas (helium). But I made the mistake of welding in the same location as we had done the machining and grinding without first cleaning up the Ti scraps. Some of the titanium chips lit up. All we could do is watch them burn out. Burned through the 3/4" steel plate table top I had the jig clamped to. Continued to burn into the concrete floor. It's still in the foundation last I saw.
Magnesium, Beryllium and Titanium are all listed as flammable metals on the material data safety sheet. All three can't come into contact with water while in a molten state without causing an explosion.
I was using an inert shielding gas (helium). But I made the mistake of welding in the same location as we had done the machining and grinding without first cleaning up the Ti scraps. Some of the titanium chips lit up. All we could do is watch them burn out. Burned through the 3/4" steel plate table top I had the jig clamped to. Continued to burn into the concrete floor. It's still in the foundation last I saw.
Ken:
That will do it. Almost any metal in small particles is volatile. And mixed with water when molten, even Al will explode.
In fact, aluminum powder is a primary component of most modern rocket propellants and explosives for just the reason you had your flameout... massive oxidation surface area... combined with an exothermic oxidation reaction....
But now we're off track.
Glad you didn't burn your boots
.
We almost did. once. We had a minor fire in our foundry once, and the foreman had to implore the fire department to not shoot water on the molten metal. Would have been the last shot he made if he had been so foolish.
Dan
That will do it. Almost any metal in small particles is volatile. And mixed with water when molten, even Al will explode.
In fact, aluminum powder is a primary component of most modern rocket propellants and explosives for just the reason you had your flameout... massive oxidation surface area... combined with an exothermic oxidation reaction....
But now we're off track.
Glad you didn't burn your boots
.We almost did. once. We had a minor fire in our foundry once, and the foreman had to implore the fire department to not shoot water on the molten metal. Would have been the last shot he made if he had been so foolish.
Dan
reviving an old thread .............. has anyone tried to restore the Titanium gear knob to its original condition ........ mine has developed scratches and stains with some loss of lustre. Tried using Mother's aluminium and metal polish (as suggested by someone here) but to no avail.
Perhaps i should bring it for a machine grinding session to bring out the shine again ........ or even to a jewelry shop .. heard that they can do wonders to Titanium rings with some re-oxidizing ??.......what do you guys think ??
Perhaps i should bring it for a machine grinding session to bring out the shine again ........ or even to a jewelry shop .. heard that they can do wonders to Titanium rings with some re-oxidizing ??.......what do you guys think ??
I have two "titanium" watches. I like metal watches, but they have to be thin and light!
The Citizen is the better of the two. On the back, it's listed as "Titanium T/YP". It is a relatively dark color and resists showing scrathes (keeps a dull-looking finish).
The Seiko says "Titanium+Base metal". There are places on it where there is shiny features and dull features on purpose. The dull features scratch easy. I have the feeling the titanium content is very low.
I paid about the same price for both.
So I have a hunch that calling something Titanium only means you have to have SOME titanium content. Note that they are not sold as "solid titanium".
The Citizen is the better of the two. On the back, it's listed as "Titanium T/YP". It is a relatively dark color and resists showing scrathes (keeps a dull-looking finish).
The Seiko says "Titanium+Base metal". There are places on it where there is shiny features and dull features on purpose. The dull features scratch easy. I have the feeling the titanium content is very low.
I paid about the same price for both.
So I have a hunch that calling something Titanium only means you have to have SOME titanium content. Note that they are not sold as "solid titanium".
Originally posted by Destiny2002
I have two "titanium" watches. I like metal watches, but they have to be thin and light!
The Citizen is the better of the two. On the back, it's listed as "Titanium T/YP". It is a relatively dark color and resists showing scrathes (keeps a dull-looking finish).
...........
My Citizen says "Base Titanium T1." I have always assumed that the dull gray metal is titanium alloy, mostly titanium. As for an expensive titanium shift knob, I will save my money. My 2002 has the standard leather wrapped aluminum knob, which is, I gather, a bit different from the 2001 and 2000 models. It isn't the sexiest knob in the world, but I remain firmly convinced that the quality and smoothness of shifting come from two things: an inherently good tranny/shifter design; and the coordination and concentration of the driver's right hand and both feet. I respectfully disagree with the 'pendulum' theory, since the shift knob is always under positive control, never swinging. I'll save my money and stay with the stock knob.
I have two "titanium" watches. I like metal watches, but they have to be thin and light!
The Citizen is the better of the two. On the back, it's listed as "Titanium T/YP". It is a relatively dark color and resists showing scrathes (keeps a dull-looking finish).
...........
My Citizen says "Base Titanium T1." I have always assumed that the dull gray metal is titanium alloy, mostly titanium. As for an expensive titanium shift knob, I will save my money. My 2002 has the standard leather wrapped aluminum knob, which is, I gather, a bit different from the 2001 and 2000 models. It isn't the sexiest knob in the world, but I remain firmly convinced that the quality and smoothness of shifting come from two things: an inherently good tranny/shifter design; and the coordination and concentration of the driver's right hand and both feet. I respectfully disagree with the 'pendulum' theory, since the shift knob is always under positive control, never swinging. I'll save my money and stay with the stock knob.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by jelliotlevy
[B]Originally posted by Destiny2002
...................................
....................., but I remain firmly convinced that the quality and smoothness of shifting come from two things: an inherently good tranny/shifter design; and the coordination and concentration of the driver's right hand and both feet.
[B]Originally posted by Destiny2002
...................................
....................., but I remain firmly convinced that the quality and smoothness of shifting come from two things: an inherently good tranny/shifter design; and the coordination and concentration of the driver's right hand and both feet.
I must be in the minority as I have never experienced the wide range of shift-knob temperatures some of you have commented on...and I have the standard aluminum 2000 knob...and I live in "sunny" California...and I drive with the top down 90% of the time. My M3 has the leather shifter and I must say I enjoy the aluminum shifter immensely.
Cheers!
Cheers!
I noticed an immediate difference in shifting when I put on my Ti shifter. Whoever commented that the extra weight makes the difference is dead-on. Shifting with the Ti felt "smoother" because it felt like there was less effort involved in moving the stick back and forth (pendulum effect). Granted, it is a minor change for around the same price as a cross-brace that will totally change the feel of your car, but I feel like it was worth it...





