RadioZero

here are the specs.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...pic=556644&hl=

fyi.

Elistan

Thanks RadioZero!

[QUOTE=Saki GT,Sep 15 2008, 01:49 PM] Do we have any consensus on whether or not the CR alignment specs work better on the AP2 than the standard specs?

SoMe0nE2tAlK2

The toe would explain the uneven tire wear I noticed on the rears.

Good to know

N2oExpresS2k

I dunno, seems odd that they wear faster on the outside.. If the manual says run .14 for the ap2 and you're running standard ap2 suspension I would leave it at .14. The more toe in you give it, the faster your rear tires will wear. It will add stability, but scrub the tires more as you drive.

Saki GT

That's part of the problem.... I've been running standard alignment specs on the standard suspension, but different tires, so its not the same. I think standard specs worked great for the OEM RE050s, understeered too much with Kumho MXs, but I had 215/255, and had slight understeer but was very stable with RE050As at 225/255. Now I have Sumitomos 215/255 on the way.... Its hard to say what the alignment will do since I keep changing tires...

TKim103

you guys should always adjust your alignment to compensate the tires lack of/increased grip

(i.e.) CR Alignment + Kumho MX (AP2 stock sizes) != CR Alignment + Kumho MX (225/255) != CR Alignment + RE050 (AP2 stock szes) != CR Alignment + RE01R (AP2 stock sizes)

etc...etc...

Saki GT

Yes, thats what makes this complicated, even for a stock suspension for "daily" use. I think the basic tenets are stock is good, CR provides increased rotational opportunity, and UK provides better cornering.

Any thoughts on going with a stock alignment settings but with more negative caster settings?

Elistan

You mean negative camber. I'd recommend sticking with stock camber settings for street driving because you won't be cornering hard enough for the increased camber to be effective, so all you'll accomplish is wearing out the inside of the tires a bit more quickly.

My feeling is that the OEM AP2 front tires are way, way, way undersized for the car. Going from OEM 215/245 to aftermarket 225/255 was a HUGE improvement in cornering balance for me. Given that, my feeling is that with the increased front-end grip of non-OEM tires, going with the slightly more rear toe in of the CR spec would be beneficial for corning stability, at the cost of some tire longevity. Worth it for street driving, IMO. (But again as above, your particular tires and such would effect this greatly.)

Saki GT

Well, actually, poor choice of words. I meant negative caster, but not really, just less positive caster....

I'm already going to front tires that are an inch wider courtesy of not being RE050s, so I have more grip up front, I'm mainly looking for solid cornering feel and how I can achieve that.

The Kumhos (215/255) plowed when I had them with stock alignment - I actually ran all four tires down equally, probably because the rears were too much rubber to the fronts, courtesy of the 255 Kumhos being so fat.

The RE050As (225/255) were much better than the RE050s and Kumhos and were about the same width as the Kumhos - the car handled neutral with a slight push, but other AP2s on RE050As with UK alignment could pull away on corners while I started to push.

With the Sumitomos coming (215/255 - close to stock stagger) I suspect I'll have a slight push and I'm wondering what I can do to get more solid cornering from the front without making the back sloppy. I don't mind spinning on an auto-x course, but I want to keep the car properly oriented on roads!

N2oExpresS2k

Reducing positive caster will make the steering feel lighter, and it'll take longer to right itself if you let go of the wheel after a slide (after the car's already pointing straight). You can't go wrong with a little more toe in. If you give it less toe in you might turn in better but the rear end will want to rotate more..