Dropping an a non f20c engine my s2000
03-28-2007, 11:18 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by FCBrandon' date='Mar 28 2007, 03:23 AM
You're crazy if you think an F20C is going to out perform a 13b-rew, and there's no way it will out do the LS1. The F20 is an amazing motor, but not because it makes big power. You can get 400hp very easily out of a 13b with nothing more than a bigger turbo and fuel injectors and maybe some mild porting.
If he needs to replace the motor, I doubt a new F20C plus turbo kit will be cheaper than a reman'd turbo rotary plus fabrication to get it in there.
If he needs to replace the motor, I doubt a new F20C plus turbo kit will be cheaper than a reman'd turbo rotary plus fabrication to get it in there.
i say stick to the f20/22c and boost it. or if you really want ALOT of hp go for the 2jz swap
03-28-2007, 11:32 AM
#22
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Originally Posted by Aze85' date='Mar 28 2007, 12:18 PM
the 13b is a good motor, but it is not that reliable. making a high hp 13b is tough. also, it would be a major PITA to install it in a s2k.
i say stick to the f20/22c and boost it. or if you really want ALOT of hp go for the 2jz swap
i say stick to the f20/22c and boost it. or if you really want ALOT of hp go for the 2jz swap
pistons>rotors. always.
oh, if anyone has seen a "no rotary" sticker let me know, im looking for one. you know the one thats got a pic of a rotor and then the universal no symbol around it.
03-28-2007, 02:53 PM
#24
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if I was to ever blow my engine, I would drop in an SR20 in an instant. the engines are cheaper to get and its already built for boost. fabrication is just time consuming but very do-able.
03-28-2007, 03:27 PM
#25
Originally Posted by ruexp67' date='Mar 28 2007, 03:13 PM
STOP GIVING THIS GUY GOOD ADVICE AND JUST TELL HIM WHAT HE WANTS TO HEAR!
Don't bother to figure out what's wrong with your car, just rip it all out and throw in something else.
Forget an LS1, get an LS7. 505HP baby! DO IT!
Don't bother to figure out what's wrong with your car, just rip it all out and throw in something else.
Forget an LS1, get an LS7. 505HP baby! DO IT!
03-28-2007, 03:38 PM
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put a d15 in it.
;-)
But seriously, don't put a sr20det they are really not that great at all. If you want to do a nissan swap put a rb25 or 26 if you got enough money. Or if you don't want to spend that much drop a ka24de in it and slap on a t3/t4 kit. And if anything goes wrong, there are PLENTY of ka24de's around. They were in altimas, 240sx's and some nissan trucks.
But if I was you, and I had money to waste on a engine swap, I would try to swap in the engine from the new Acura RDX (Turbocharged 2.3-liter 16-valve, DOHC i-VTEC
;-)
But seriously, don't put a sr20det they are really not that great at all. If you want to do a nissan swap put a rb25 or 26 if you got enough money. Or if you don't want to spend that much drop a ka24de in it and slap on a t3/t4 kit. And if anything goes wrong, there are PLENTY of ka24de's around. They were in altimas, 240sx's and some nissan trucks.
But if I was you, and I had money to waste on a engine swap, I would try to swap in the engine from the new Acura RDX (Turbocharged 2.3-liter 16-valve, DOHC i-VTEC
03-28-2007, 03:57 PM
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just a quick qeustion, are you guys talkin about what motor is more reliable? ls1, or what company makes a stronger engine that can perform, or are you talking about BANG FOR BUCK? because this went from tranny problem = to what engine is better?
03-28-2007, 04:09 PM
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Obviously, there aren't many people here that really know about rotaries. A properly built rotary will very reliable. The motor in my FC makes around 400hp and runs track events just fine. Like any motor, if you tune things improperly, you're going to have problems. Rotaries cannot take pre-det as well as piston motors can, so you take that into consideration when tuning fuel. Too many people tune rotaries like piston motors, and leave no room for error. On a street driven car, that's just retarded; you weigh your risk for power vs reliability on the track.
And making big power out of rotaries is incredibly easy when compared to a piston motor. There are no internals to replace, i.e., no pistons, rods, no crank. No valvetrain to worry about. The only reason you'd open the motor is to inspect seals and porting. Big ports, big turbo, and big fuel are all you need. The motor will hold together up until 600hp, that's when you start upgrading housing bolts and hardware.
The 13B-rew in the FD is a great motor, but Mazda did not provide for adequate cooling from the factory. Oil handles almost 70% of the cooling requirements. The standard FD came with a single, tiny oil cooler. They all came with small, cheap radiators. On top of all that, there was improper ventilation/circulation for the fan and radiator to work properly. So what you had was almost literally, an engine built to grenade itself.
The oil cooler on my FC looks like it came from a diesel truck, and has a healthy size radiator, with a properly ducted fan and room to breath. I've taken it to drift events in SoCal in August, in 90 degree weather and driven the piss out of it, regularly keeping the motor deep into the red. No problems, at all. I run a rich curve on my fuel just in case, and will be adding water injection in the future to further ensure reliability.
So I just run a little rich to maintain the reliability on my 400hp motor, which only has big turbo/injectors. A piston motor will always beat me in fuel economy, but you don't really go for good MPG when going for power.
Having said all that, I'd hate this thread into a 'bash rotaries' story. It's an argument that will never end. As for ChorreraS2000's issue, I agree with those saying just turbo and replace the tranny. If the motor is good, keep it. A turbo F20C would be a blast. It's an awesome motor...that's pretty much why I bought this car.
And making big power out of rotaries is incredibly easy when compared to a piston motor. There are no internals to replace, i.e., no pistons, rods, no crank. No valvetrain to worry about. The only reason you'd open the motor is to inspect seals and porting. Big ports, big turbo, and big fuel are all you need. The motor will hold together up until 600hp, that's when you start upgrading housing bolts and hardware.
The 13B-rew in the FD is a great motor, but Mazda did not provide for adequate cooling from the factory. Oil handles almost 70% of the cooling requirements. The standard FD came with a single, tiny oil cooler. They all came with small, cheap radiators. On top of all that, there was improper ventilation/circulation for the fan and radiator to work properly. So what you had was almost literally, an engine built to grenade itself.
The oil cooler on my FC looks like it came from a diesel truck, and has a healthy size radiator, with a properly ducted fan and room to breath. I've taken it to drift events in SoCal in August, in 90 degree weather and driven the piss out of it, regularly keeping the motor deep into the red. No problems, at all. I run a rich curve on my fuel just in case, and will be adding water injection in the future to further ensure reliability.
So I just run a little rich to maintain the reliability on my 400hp motor, which only has big turbo/injectors. A piston motor will always beat me in fuel economy, but you don't really go for good MPG when going for power.
Having said all that, I'd hate this thread into a 'bash rotaries' story. It's an argument that will never end. As for ChorreraS2000's issue, I agree with those saying just turbo and replace the tranny. If the motor is good, keep it. A turbo F20C would be a blast. It's an awesome motor...that's pretty much why I bought this car.
