Easy, fast, cheap horn replacement
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From: Spanish Fort
Originally posted by Col:
Tedster (and others),
Hornslike these don't appreciate the output trumpet pointing directly into the incoming wind (rain, insects & dirt). I would recommemnd them being pointed down as for air horns. Rotate the scrolls so they point down at about 45 degrees at least, it shouldn't have much impact on the volume. I had a pair of those Fiams in Oz and found that after about 3 months in a similiar position to yours they became noticeably duller when compared with new units.
All the best.
Tedster (and others),
Hornslike these don't appreciate the output trumpet pointing directly into the incoming wind (rain, insects & dirt). I would recommemnd them being pointed down as for air horns. Rotate the scrolls so they point down at about 45 degrees at least, it shouldn't have much impact on the volume. I had a pair of those Fiams in Oz and found that after about 3 months in a similiar position to yours they became noticeably duller when compared with new units.
All the best.
On the other hand, Hella Supertones are not trumpets, they resemble the stock horn in construction and mechanics of operation. They are not as prone to water damage as a trumpet.
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From: SF Bay Area
Here's the bumper removal from the Helms manual that fellow lister Mark sent me:
for the true plug and play (and easiest), I put in this one... I went with a disc style since the front is so exposed to the elements. Horns, unless mounted correctly (i.e. creatively) would get hit with water... plus I didn't want to screw with relays. It's 130db and about twice the size of the stock horn unit.
I'll probably replace it at some point but it's good enough for now.
for the true plug and play (and easiest), I put in this one... I went with a disc style since the front is so exposed to the elements. Horns, unless mounted correctly (i.e. creatively) would get hit with water... plus I didn't want to screw with relays. It's 130db and about twice the size of the stock horn unit.
I'll probably replace it at some point but it's good enough for now.
Thread Starter
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From: Seattle
Thanks for the comments, everyone.
Pinky,
what do you suggest for splicing three wires in this situation?
Col (and others),
I did wind up pointing them down a little more than the pictures show. I'll take another look and see if they should be rotated even further.
Pinky,
what do you suggest for splicing three wires in this situation?
Col (and others),
I did wind up pointing them down a little more than the pictures show. I'll take another look and see if they should be rotated even further.
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Joined: Nov 2000
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From: SF Bay Area
Sorry, I don't have the part number handy... I bought it at Kragen Auto Parts (chain) and the manufacturer was "Chieftan" they were made in Italy and cost around $15. I got the "Low" note (which is actually fairly high) but they also make a "High" note as well which will probably make your ears bleed.
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From: Portola Valley
Tedster... for the connection I would suggest one of Three options. First and best: Solder. once soldered, dip in silicone of other glue.
Second, Crimp tool, and spade connectors. That is basically what honda uses... get the kind with shields.
Third and probably equally good, but I'm not sure where to find... Crimp things like the Scotch-links that you heard suggested... but get the kind that leaves the connection immersed in gel. They do exist, and get used for subterranean phone connections and the like.
But echo on the others... Your current thing will fail when you least want it to.
Best,
Dan
Second, Crimp tool, and spade connectors. That is basically what honda uses... get the kind with shields.
Third and probably equally good, but I'm not sure where to find... Crimp things like the Scotch-links that you heard suggested... but get the kind that leaves the connection immersed in gel. They do exist, and get used for subterranean phone connections and the like.
But echo on the others... Your current thing will fail when you least want it to.
Best,
Dan
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 4,307
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From: Ogden
Outstanding info on the horns but scary wiring pictures and advice from other posters. Forget about connectors...just unscrew them if you need to in the future (i.e. radiator service):
Step one: Strip wires
Step two: Slip 2" of appropriately sized heat shrink tubing over wires (available at most auto stores)
Step three: "Tin" wires by applying a small amount of solder to bond strands.
Step four: Form a hook on each wire and attach to each other.
Step five: Solder joint together using Sn 60 solder
Step six: Slide heat shrink tubing over joint and shrink using hot air gun or blow dryer.
This will result in a weather tight bond that [red]WILL NOT FAIL [/red]!
If it is good enough for airplane flight controls I suppose it should be good enough for my S2K.
Step one: Strip wires
Step two: Slip 2" of appropriately sized heat shrink tubing over wires (available at most auto stores)
Step three: "Tin" wires by applying a small amount of solder to bond strands.
Step four: Form a hook on each wire and attach to each other.
Step five: Solder joint together using Sn 60 solder
Step six: Slide heat shrink tubing over joint and shrink using hot air gun or blow dryer.
This will result in a weather tight bond that [red]WILL NOT FAIL [/red]!
If it is good enough for airplane flight controls I suppose it should be good enough for my S2K.