My car just started to do this. Will be giving this a try. Thanks Chitah831

 

When I had my PT Cruiser, some of the Mopar mechanics recommended a treatment for high mileage cars and some with hesitation problems under acceleration. It's called Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner. It sells for 4 or 5 bucks at Dodge dealerships. Here's some intructions:


There are professional treatments for the injectors that a shop can perform, but the one below is what I do. Sometimes injectors may need treatment also, but most of the time the valves and combustion chamber are what needs cleaning the most.

I would do this procedure every 30,000 If you are replacing your spark plugs at 30,000 do this procedure first (it does not ruin the plugs, I just say this because if you are going to put new ones in anyway, better not to subject the new plugs to the chemicals).

Carbon may build up on the pistons, spark plugs and valves over time. This build up can cause light spark knock in situations such as trailer towing or climbing steep sustained grades. There could also be symptoms of hard starts, driveway die-outs, and hesitations while engine is cold.

Combustion chamber carbon deposits can be removed with Mopar Combustion Chamber Conditioner p/n 04318001
Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner/Conditioner is really good for removing carbon deposits, but the directions on the can are not so useful. The following directions outline the way that professional mechanics have been using the cleaner for years -- they were finally published in TSB 18-31-97 for 1996-98 Jeep 4.0 Liter misfire conditions:

Decarbonizing Procedure

1. Operate the vehicle until the vehicle reaches operating temperature.

2. Remove the air tube from the throttle body.

3. With the engine at an idle, spray the entire contents of Mopar Combustion Cleaner, p/n 04318001, directly into the throttle body. You may have to pause for a few seconds to prevent the engine from choking out on too much cleaner. Note: Be careful not to rev the engine or spray too much at once because there is the possibility that the engine could hydrostatically lock and in some cases this will cause severe engine damage.

4. Shut the engine OFF after the entire can is ingested.

5. With the hood closed, allow the vehicle to soak for two to three hours. This will ensure that the engine will maintain its temperature and will allow proper solvent penetration.

6. After engine restart, allow to idle for 10 minutes. Lots of blue smoke is normal!, it will go away during your test drive. Drive the vehicle on a highway/freeway that will allow the vehicle to be driven safely at the posted speed limit. Upon entering the highway/freeway, accelerate hard to the posted speed limit and maintain speed. Slow down and then perform 5 to 10 Wide Open Throttle (WOT) upshifts. Continue driving at the maximum speed limit for 1-2 miles (if conditions allow).

NOTE: ALLOW THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER CLEANER TO SOAK INSIDE OF THE ENGINE FOR 2 TO 3 HOURS. NOTE: AFTER THE FIRST TREATMENT AND TEST DRIVE, A SECOND APPLICATION OF THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER CONDITIONER MAY BE REQUIRED IF THERE WERE DRIVABILITY SYMPTOMS BEFORE.

 

YESS!!! I finally have a solution to that annoying engine shuddering, about-to-stall problem.

Thanks

 

Do S2000's have EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valves? I know my Talon did and thats what accounted for most of the black soot buildup in the intake manifold. Basically what it did was recirculate some exhast gases into the intake manifold while at cruise.

The MCCC recomended above is really good stuff. There are 2 ways to use it, either put it directly in the combustion chamber, or spray it into the intake while the engine is running (pick a vacuum line and squirt squirt). I highly recomend replacing your plugs afterwards though, all those carbon deposits can foul the plugs pretty easily. Also, changed your oil right after leaving it in your cylinders (after you get the engine started and cleared out of course) and make sure you remove as much as you can from the cylinders before start-up to avoid hydrolocking the engine.

 

Thanks. I will definitely try this.

 

If any of you are going to do this how about snapping a few shots while your at it

I don't have the problem, but I like preventative maintainance

 

I'm going to do this tonight, I'll try to snap some pics.

Josh

 

I would also like to see some pics of this!

 

normal in the S2000.. happen sometimes your foot still pressed on the clutch causing the car to stutter.

 

considering my S2000 did this even when it had a mere 600 miles on the odometer, i am doubtful this is a permanent solution. might work for a couple days, but that's my opinion. the experts of s2ki says it's the learning ECU.

also, do NOT use brake cleaner. that is VERY corrosive and can actually remove some of the protective coatings inside your ITB/manifold.