I got the Tamiya S2000 plastic kit for Christmas. I have built plastic model kits before, but I want to do a much better job with this one. So I am looking for advice on how to make this a professional looking model. Here are just some of the questions I have:

- Best way to remove the pieces from the "tree". Good tools to trim the pieces.
- What glue to use.
- How to make "invisible" glue joints.
- How to glue clear parts (headlights, windshield, etc.).
- What kind of paint to use, hand brush or spray paint? Any brand better than others?
- How to paint detail parts (engine, seats, under-carriage, etc.), should I paint the individual parts before gluing them together or after?
- How to paint exterior? The kit is molded in white plastic, I drive a GP White S2000. Does it need painting? What's the best way to paint it?
- How to paint the wheels?
- Does the weather matter? It is really cold and damp right now, should I wait until spring?

I've seem some of the pictures posted by others of the plastic modeld they build and they look fantastic. If anyone want to PM me with specific advice, I'd appreciate it too. Thanks in advance.

 

At one time I built alot of Wiston Cup cars and I'll tell ya some of the things I leaned over the years....Before you paint the body wash it in warm water and a mild soap,let dry then spray it with model primer,let it dry overnight before you hit it with the colored spray.When using spray paint remember nice sweeping motions and lite coats (I always used Testors products)When painting real small things such as pieces of the engine I found leaving them on the plastic "tree" they come on is the best way to paint them and you can always touch them up once you cut them off and have them in place.Testors glue is as good as any and for those tough areas to apply glue(like windshilds)use a tooth pick and use dabs not one long solid line of glue.I'd stay away from painting in real cold weather because I've seen paint not adhere and start doing funky things in the cold so you may want to wait as you suggested until it warms up a bit.Also,remember to take your time and let things dry (glue as well as paint)before you move on.Good luck and make sure you post pics of the final product.

 

PM me for model building advice, I have won a few contests in my time, and I have this kit too...

 

This is a relatively pain-free model to build.
Basically, if you want to do a descent job, you need some fine brushes and some of those side cutters that cut nearly flush.

I always paint before I cut the parts off of the trees, it just makes my life that much easier.

When they dry, I cut the parts off with the cutters and trim the remaining crap on the parts with an xacto knife.
You may need to touch up on some area after cutting though.

I find Tamiya glue works well for most applications as well.

Always let the paint on the parts dry completely before you glue, and glue carefully and precisely.

You won't find the F20C in this kit unfortunately.

The undercarriage you can paint with fine brushes, and it's always a good idea to mask off the places you're not painting for a clean look.

For the seats, try to use semi-gloss colors, for they look more realistic.

Why do you need to paint the wheels? The wheels included in the kits are stunning. (If I remember correctly, it comes with the Mugen MF-10s and the OEM BBS ones right?)

The weather matters when you paint the exterior. It's a bit easier to paint in the spring, I think.

Since the body is molded in white, it looks good unpainted unlike some other kits where they're molded in other colors. If you really want to do a good job, then paint it! I used a few layers of Tamiya white spray can and the results were pretty good, no primer was needed.

Note: I'm no expert, these are just based on experience, good luck with the model!

 

WhiteS2k,

There are 2 variations of this kit. One is all plastic, and as described by JL2000, has a white body. In my local shop the other day, I noticed the same kit with a metal body (if I interpreted the box correctly) - I don't know if that is also a white body.

Which do you have? I don't know if it makes a huge difference.

For me - I've been out of building for a few years. I bought the S800 to build first, and relearn on. I'll do the S2K when complete.

 

Actually, there are three versions of this kit. The first one did not have a hardtop or extra wheels. Then the second version came out with a hardtop and different wheels, now the metal plate version, which is really not that accurate. It is basically a chromed silver body.

The real trick if you haven't used them before are the painting masks for the windshield and back window. It is easier to use the "hand paint the frames and toothpick off the excess" method to me.

 

Are you serious about this!? That's the same method I use! and I thought it was crude using the toothpicks, I guess not. Very cool.

 

Well, you don't actually use the toothpicks to paint with, and there is a fine line when to use the toothpick, the paint has to dry but not dry for too long. Also, always use acrylic paint, not enamels!

 

I have built a lot of Tamiya anf Fumiji car kits, and I think I may be able to give a couple pointers...

Flyin Wedge is right, there is still some mold release stuff on the models that makes the paint not adhere as good. So is it essential to wash the parts is warm soapy water.

I almost never use brushes to paint. Spray always gives a professional appearance without brush strokes/lines. The only time I use brushes is when painting engines, but the s2k doesn't have one.

Even tho the kit is white you MUST paint the body white. (Unless your building the model half-assed)

There is not need to paint the wheel, unless you want a more realistic look with an air brush.

Err.. invisible glue joints? Most of the joints fit together just apply a tiny bit of glue into the hole where they fit and it shouldn't be visible at all.

For headlights, etc. I use a very very small amount of super glue on the edges of the headlight. It shouldn't show at all. I would avoid using Tamiya cement cause you would need more glue that may screw up the paint on the body AND make the clear parts white and ugly.

Moisture is a big no-no when painting models. Paint one on a dry sunny day.

Just use a good metal clipper to cut the parts off the tree, but leave a couple milimeters of the tree "branch" on the parts and sand that off, that would ensure that the body is flush with the area that the tree "branch" has been.

On the body of the car, there is often mold lines on the car. They are often on the front and rear of the body. Make sure you sand these off!

The interior is pretty straight forward. Get a few long pieces of masking tape and loop them so both sides are sticky. Lay the masking tape on some newspaper. For example if you want a black interior, just lay out all the interior parts (seats, door panels, steering wheel, etc) on the pieces of masking tape. You can then use your Tamiya spray can and spray all the interior parts at once. More lights coats are better then a couple heavy coats! (The masking tape is so the parts don't fly around by the pressure of the spray can)

After all the interior parts and chasis is painted you can start assembly. I never use the Tamiya cement to glue the parts together! I find that it takes too long to cure and you need to clamp or hold the two parts together for too long. Also I am kinda impatient and I can't wait for 30mins to let stupid part dry before moving to anthoer part that connects to that one.

I use instant super glue! It works GREAT!! A tiny bit sticks two pieces together and dries in seconds! That way I can quickly move on to the next part without spending all of my time holding parts together and getting my fingers all gooey. It also makes the task of building the model a lot cleaner and many times faster!

Ok, after the chasis is done and the interior is nicely attached on the top, the only thing left to do is to paint the body and insert the head/tail lights and other little stuff.

I normally use very fine sand paper (1500 grit) to get rid of any scratches left by the tree and mold line removal sanding. A very important thing to remember is that if you can see light scratches on the body before painting, you WILL still see them after painting!! So make sure there are no lines or scratches left by sanding, use rubbing compound if you must. After the body if nicely preped rinse the body in water and air dry it for a while. Make sure it is COMPLETELY dry, cause any water bubles in the corners will cause major frustration!

Now is the time for primer! Primer is very important. Without primer the paint may look transparent and see thru even if you have apllied a lot of paint! It also makes paint adhere tot the model body. If you are painting the car white or a very light color use white primer, if you are painting it red or any other deep color use grey primer. Tamiya white primer is kinda hard to find, but it does exist! Grey primer is easy to find. If you can't find Tamiya white primer you can use another brand of fine model primer.

I usually stick some looped masking tape on the top of an empty soft drink can and mount the inside roof of the car body on top of that. It makes priming and painting a lot easier. Shake the spray can very well. Use a few light coats and let each coat dry. After the primer has fully covered the car in a few coats let it to dry for about an hour.

Now we come to the part where everyone messes up on their first attempt! The body painting!

I usually flip the car body upside down and paint the inside of the car body so that any white parts are not visible from the outside, but I guess thats optional. Painting the car body is just like primering. Mount the car body on that empty can you have and spray the car using very very light coats. Never stop the flow of paint while the spray can is pointed towards the car body. Always start and stop the flow of paint away from the car. Always use light coats and let each coat dry inbetween. Using heavy coats or not waiting long enough for the previous coats to dry will cause dripping! You know your done when the car's color is solid throughout and color is even all over the car.

After a few hours of drying (or even overnight) you can start installing the headlights and the other stuff on top of the car body.

If you want a nice even paint job with shine, then use some very fine rubbing compound and lightly apply it to the car body with a clean cotton cloth is a circular motion. Then follow with car wax!

You can now mount the windows and decals! Then finally assemble the car body on the chasis!

Tada! A perfectly built car model..... that is if you didn't mess up the painting!

 

errr... did I go overboard?