Clutch pedal adjustment? I don't see how replacing the clutch line would change it, but just a thought. Any comments xviper?

 

Changing the line and bleeding the system should not affect the way the pedal's friction point and such. Even if the size of the line is different, clutch travel/engagement is dependent upon the master and slave cylinders. In this case, these have not changed.
He indicated that 1/2 his clutch travel is "nothing". It is possible that something goofy is happening in the bleed process. It could be a bunch of air is getting in. The bleed valve should only be "cracked" open just enough to let the fluid flow. Too much and air can get back in. Also, that's why I suggested to re-read the steps in my DIY. The valve may not be getting opened or closed at the precise moment they need to be.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by xviper

 

Hmmm... I read the DIY again... we didn't do any of the syringe part as our object is to
bleed the air out not refresing all the fluids.

We also skipped #11 of the DIY... but we had the fluid at near "max" when we're done bleeding..
would this be a big issue?

 

No, this should not have made any difference. After your experience, I did edit step #11 to include a final pumping of the pedal and fluid level recheck before going for a drive. This may or may not make a difference for most people, but I thought I'd put it in there just in case.
You have a mystery indeed and I would re-iterate the bit about putting the stock line back on to see if your clutch will "come back".

 

I just bought a stainless steel clutch line, should I even have it installed now after all this?