Well I found out the answer. I'm replacing the hoses with SS hoses from Comptech. The lines stay. The entire line needs to be replaced, I cant just get another nut. Right side front is $41 and will take 3 days to get.

Bummer, but it could be worse I guess. Anybody got a 10mm flare nut wrench they want to sell or loan? If not I'll get one and pass it around to those that need it.

I'm assuming the line comes as a straight piece of tubing. If I need to bend it, what tool do I need?


[This message has been edited by cthree (edited October 27, 2000).]

 

Couldn't tell you about the bending part. Most of my experience w/ tubing is w/ houses. Copper tubing is easier to bend then SS. You can bend the copper tubing by hand. Maybe find something about the radius of the bend you want and gradually bend it. It woud at least keep you from kinking the new line.

If it is going to take a couple of days to get the part, your should be able to order them online and have them arrive at the same time. A local Sears store would have them in stock and might sell them individually for ~$5.

Good Luck,

 

Why were you taking the lines off the master cylinder? The stainless steel braided lines only replace the high pressure rubber lines at each wheel, not the steel lines leading up to that point as I recall.

You would use a tubing bender to bend the lines but they probably come preformed.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Bieg:
[B]Why were you taking the lines off the master cylinder?

 

10mm flare nut wrench: Sears. $12. Or home center or auto parts store. All it is, is a box-end wrench with a small gap for the line to slip through, but still grips all six bolt faces, not just two.

I agree a compression fitting is not recommended. Replacing the line is the best option.

But you should be able to use an appropriate length universal brake line from an auto parts store, unless the Honda fittings are really unusual. Might also need one adapter fitting. Probably cost $10.

Brake line is easy to bend and you don't need a bender. Can bend over a pipe, can, or jar.

But if you can stand the three days, and the part is already bent, and of course you know the fittings match, then it may be worth the wait.

"Half hour" jobs that turn into days are not fun. Been there many times.

 

not trying to butt in, but have you thought of cutting a hole in the floor and getting a really good pair of tennis shoes? brakes really are optional....

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Gregg Lee:
[B]10mm flare nut wrench:

 

a) Next time, use a box-end wrench if at all possible.

b) Write on the blackboard 100 times: "I will not use an open-end wrench to break loose a factory torqued nut, especially a brass one."

 

One more hopeful thought. You may not have damaged the nut too badly after all. It may be useable. I looked under my car to see what you were dealing with. The nuts on this type fitting are sort of "pre-rounded" compared to a regular nut. I have no idea why, but they always are. Open end wrench will not work and will slip around edge at low torque. Flare nut wrench will hold. If you can get the flare nut wrench on the nut, perhaps with a little cleanup with a file, then likely you can remove it. Since any damage is in the undo direction, retightening should be unaffected.