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Help me price my S2000.

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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 01:18 PM
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Default Help me price my S2000.

Not sure if this is the correct place to post this to be honest.
Thinking about getting something new/starting a new project; a FD RX7.
I've had two stock rx7's offered for trade for my car but I really don't know that it would be an equal trade. I need help placing a value on my car although I know that vehicle value is partially opinionated. I'm not meaning value at a dealer stand point but as in someone looking for an already built car.

Car specs
MY01
51,000 miles
Berlina Black, originally red.
Clean title
Black interior
430 WHP 295 WTQ @ 17 PSI

Mods (What I can think of at the moment)
CP Low Compression Pistons
Brian Crower Rods
Darton Dry Sleeves
ARP Headstuds
AP2 Retainer upgrade
Updated Oil Banjo Bolts
Mishimoto radiator
Radiator cooling plate
CC Stage 2 clutch
Ultimate Racing Turbo kit w/ 60-1 Garrett turbo. 700cc injectors. Walbro 255. Oil filter relocator. AEM 3 Bar Map sensor. Full 3inch exhaust. Greddy FMIC. Tial 38MM wastegate w/dumptube. HKS SSQV. Cusco strut bar.
AEM 1052 V1 EMS
SOS dual gauge pod w/AEM wideband and oil pressure gauge (stock radio control) and O'Reilly Auto premium boost gauge.
Apexi AVC-R boost controller.
Custom 4 point chromoly harness bar.
Red bride Gias Low max w/Bride rail.
Takata 4 point harness.
Airwalker front lip.
Ksport coilovers.
5zigen Fn01r
17×9 +35 front 17x10 +38 rear. 245/40 all around.
Faded carbon fiber J's style vented Seibon hood.

Pros
Has cold AC
Timing chain replaced
Oil pump replaced
Well maintained, all major work done at Import Dynamics w/ receipts.
New thermostat 500 miles ago.
OEM Head gasket and valve job 1,000 miles ago.
Bottom end inspected, no damage to rod bearings and no play in the rods.
All oil relocation lines replaced 3000 miles ago to thicker higher flowing lines.
New alternator and starter 5000 miles ago.

Cons
Basically all that is wrong with the car is the body and aesthetics.
Needs a better paint job. Pinch welds are fairly scraped up, quarter panel damage, red engine bay and trunk.
Passenger door doesn't open from outside. It is gutted besides the door handle, window, speaker and side mirror. I have the parts however.
Chance customs quoted me 300. Import Dynamics quoted me the same.
Fenders are pulled however noticeably damaged from retarded wheel fitment. Rear fenders are actually okay though.
My top was cut on new years day. Two slashes near the plastic window (both sides near quarter panel) and on top in the very middle they cut a large hole.
The two slashes have been sewn and the hole has been patched. NO leaks. A new softop and you're better off though.
AP2 taillights but hack job by previous owner. Can't tell with the trunk liner on.
Driver rear LCA is bent. Replaced the entire knuckle and hub assembly and was shipped a bent lower arm from a member here.
That's all I can think of at the moment.... a long list I know. Thanks guys!
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 01:20 PM
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBWf...e_gdata_player
Dyno tune



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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 01:47 PM
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is the clear on the hood coming off? Did the door jams and under the hood get painted as well? Do you still have the orginal hood? 51k on the chassis? You still have the orginal driver's seat?

Be thankful you have that turbo kit, even if it's limiting your market, it's the only way you're gonna get anywhere near $13k for it. I'd put the car at $11k in value, and without the turbo kit around $8-8.5k
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by RedCelica
is the clear on the hood coming off? Did the door jams and under the hood get painted as well? Do you still have the orginal hood? 51k on the chassis? You still have the orginal driver's seat?
Hood clear is fading. Door jambs are painted. Under the hood is still red. 51k on chassis and motor.
No original hood or driver's seat.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 02:59 PM
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The list of cons is fairly lengthy and as you said they almost all happen to be cosmetic which are the first thing anyone will notice when coming to look at the car.

Honestly I think you would have a much easier time selling the car if you ponied up for a $2-3k 'decent' paint job (along with a bit of prior body work as needed). This would help you to not scare everyone away as soon as they first look at the car.

Also the passenger door thing...just fix it. Not many people are going to buy a newer car with as stupid of a problem as that. No offense at all intended here, that's just one of those things that would make me think "really?"

If you did some body work + paint job + get the doors both opening normally, I believe you will have added more value to the car than you put in it to address those problems.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 08:26 PM
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Yup, you can wrench all day long but it really takes a paint booth and lots of experience to get a nice paint job. $$$$$.

The logical way to do this would be to take the top selling price for a mint condition vehicle, then deduct what it needs, then deduct a little more for all the effort it will take to get it there.

You can price it high and see if you get nibbles, but I think anyone wanting to take it on would want a bargain... like 7.5-9k.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 08:39 PM
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If you was in FL,
Id prob give you 7.5-8k
Not trying to be a dick, But I think its a fair price
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 10:38 PM
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sell turbo kit separately...
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 12:26 AM
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Not taking offense I appreciate the input of course. Thats fair seeing the condition of my car. Im aware mods dont always-or better said; usually dont increase value.
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 03:35 AM
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the good news is most of the work is cosmetic , as pointed out. If you put a little money into making it look nicer people would be more willing to give it a longer look, and since mechanically it's sound, the cosmetics are all you have to worry about.
However if the car is as-is then first impressions of the car make someone think "if the cosmetics are like this, i dont think the mechanicals are in order either"

my 2 cents
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