Homelink mod
If anyone is thinking about adding a homelink garage door opener to their car, it is quick and easy. I bought a used visor off of a Chrysler with a Homelink unit from Ebay. Once I removed the Homelink device from the old visor, I had it installed within 1 hour. Just be careful extracting it from the old visor, not to yank the wires or break the plastic case. If you have a rolling code opener, look for a homelink with the little house symbol on it. That is the newer version. If you are lucky, it will already be separated from the old visor.
The visor on my 2001 EX is a plastic clam shell design. The lower edge can be separated with a screwdriver all the way up the sides. Pull the fabric off the plastic rivets and peel it back to the hinged end on the side you intend to install the unit. Don't worry about re-attaching the fabric, you'll use hot glue to stick it back in place later. Scribe the shape of the homelink onto the plastic and cut it out. I used a dremmel with a cutting disk. Once you have the hole cut and removed, use the dremmel to cut out the vertical spines in the hole area. The homelink should now fit perfectly flush in the visor.
Wire it up before you install it. Mine had 2 wires black ground, red hot. I recommend you test and program the Homelink before you cut up your visor. Just direct wire it to the car battery for power and make sure it opens your garage. If it checks out, wire it with at least 6 foot of wire. I used the same gauge wire as was on the device because space is at a premium when the visor is closed back together. Feed the wire inside above the mirror hump and below the hinge making sure it does not get pinched. Finally before closing the visor, place the homelink in place and use duct tape or packaging tape to level the outside surface of the visor and hold it in place. Pull the fabric back and hot glue it back where it came from. Snap the visor back together and now find the holes in the homelink for the buttons. Cut the 3 holes carefully for the bottons to fit in place and install the bezel. 1 2 3 easy.
Here's what I did for the wire routing. The plastic mounting plate has a raised part where the screw cap does not cover. I drilled a hole twice the size of the wire to feed the wire through and beveled the opening of the hole. Leave about a 1-2" loop for the wire to flex freely. Feed the wire up between the headliner and roof and down the left pillar. The pillar cover just pulls off. Then feed the wire to the fuse box. I used an "add a fuse" to tap the power from the window circuit. Since my car is parked on the driveway I wanted the garage opener to be powered with the "key on" so nobody could just break the window and open the garage. I used the right side fuse box mounting bolt for the ground since it was so convenient. Just a suggestion, find a wire that is attached similar to a household appliance cord only thinner. It makes it easier to route the wires.
That's it. $30 and 1 hour of time. Here's some pictures of the finished product. There's no sewing fabric like you might think there would be. The Homelink does not require constant power to hold the memory so using the switched accessory power works just fine. I chose a circuit that is rarely used in constant state like the windows. The "add a fuse" shares the power but has it's own dedicated fuse and fits in the place of the factory fuse.
Cheers.



The visor on my 2001 EX is a plastic clam shell design. The lower edge can be separated with a screwdriver all the way up the sides. Pull the fabric off the plastic rivets and peel it back to the hinged end on the side you intend to install the unit. Don't worry about re-attaching the fabric, you'll use hot glue to stick it back in place later. Scribe the shape of the homelink onto the plastic and cut it out. I used a dremmel with a cutting disk. Once you have the hole cut and removed, use the dremmel to cut out the vertical spines in the hole area. The homelink should now fit perfectly flush in the visor.
Wire it up before you install it. Mine had 2 wires black ground, red hot. I recommend you test and program the Homelink before you cut up your visor. Just direct wire it to the car battery for power and make sure it opens your garage. If it checks out, wire it with at least 6 foot of wire. I used the same gauge wire as was on the device because space is at a premium when the visor is closed back together. Feed the wire inside above the mirror hump and below the hinge making sure it does not get pinched. Finally before closing the visor, place the homelink in place and use duct tape or packaging tape to level the outside surface of the visor and hold it in place. Pull the fabric back and hot glue it back where it came from. Snap the visor back together and now find the holes in the homelink for the buttons. Cut the 3 holes carefully for the bottons to fit in place and install the bezel. 1 2 3 easy.
Here's what I did for the wire routing. The plastic mounting plate has a raised part where the screw cap does not cover. I drilled a hole twice the size of the wire to feed the wire through and beveled the opening of the hole. Leave about a 1-2" loop for the wire to flex freely. Feed the wire up between the headliner and roof and down the left pillar. The pillar cover just pulls off. Then feed the wire to the fuse box. I used an "add a fuse" to tap the power from the window circuit. Since my car is parked on the driveway I wanted the garage opener to be powered with the "key on" so nobody could just break the window and open the garage. I used the right side fuse box mounting bolt for the ground since it was so convenient. Just a suggestion, find a wire that is attached similar to a household appliance cord only thinner. It makes it easier to route the wires.
That's it. $30 and 1 hour of time. Here's some pictures of the finished product. There's no sewing fabric like you might think there would be. The Homelink does not require constant power to hold the memory so using the switched accessory power works just fine. I chose a circuit that is rarely used in constant state like the windows. The "add a fuse" shares the power but has it's own dedicated fuse and fits in the place of the factory fuse.
Cheers.
Originally Posted by Popeye,Oct 4 2008, 12:39 PM
Homelink should have been an option from Honda
and what more interesting you can buy it from honda and installed on the accord civic and cr-v
here is a video to explain how
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m3gfd7BptQg
There are a lot of things I wish our cars came with - auto dimming rear view mirror, pass mirror moves down when car put in reverse, rear speakers, outside air temp gauge, glove box (in addition to the secret compartment), etc.
But this car was not designed to be a luxury car, and thus it has no need for this type of stff. That's like asking for cruise control on a superbike. When, under normal uses, would you ever need this stuff if the car was used as "designed"?
But this car was not designed to be a luxury car, and thus it has no need for this type of stff. That's like asking for cruise control on a superbike. When, under normal uses, would you ever need this stuff if the car was used as "designed"?
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Originally Posted by RTZX9R,Oct 5 2008, 07:43 AM
There are a lot of things I wish our cars came with - auto dimming rear view mirror, pass mirror moves down when car put in reverse, rear speakers, outside air temp gauge, glove box (in addition to the secret compartment), etc.
But this car was not designed to be a luxury car, and thus it has no need for this type of stff. That's like asking for cruise control on a superbike. When, under normal uses, would you ever need this stuff if the car was used as "designed"?
But this car was not designed to be a luxury car, and thus it has no need for this type of stff. That's like asking for cruise control on a superbike. When, under normal uses, would you ever need this stuff if the car was used as "designed"?
Originally Posted by 9KRDLIN,Oct 5 2008, 07:52 AM
i would definately use it as i park my car in a garage. thus, i would like to have it over the giant one that just looks ugly...
Absolutely not necessary if the car is not garaged. I also have a big remote that keeps sliding around in the driver's door compartment. I now keep it in the center console where it still slides around but makes less noise. I've got to have a similar mod.




