how does the aluminum s2000 valve cover/block not corrode when steel fasnters R used
10-24-2018, 01:04 PM
#1
how does the aluminum s2000 valve cover/block not corrode when steel fasnters R used
how does the aluminum s2000 valve cover/head/block,intake manifold, not corrode when steel fasteners are used to hold it together (manifold bolts,bolts for coil packs, spark plug cover, studs, header)
also how do the steel fasteners on the aluminum hood not corrode ?
also how do the steel fasteners on the aluminum hood not corrode ?
10-24-2018, 01:33 PM
#2
Lack of Electrolysis in the engine bay <as its earthed>and are s/steel
think hood bolts are painted
think hood bolts are painted
Last edited by noodels; 10-24-2018 at 01:36 PM.
10-24-2018, 01:44 PM
#3
10-24-2018, 01:53 PM
#4
Yes but care is needed for the less torque with alloy sheer
10-24-2018, 02:47 PM
#5
i want to replace as much of the steel fasteners and bolts on my car with aluminum and titanium , where should i stop with the titanium ? m8? m10? which bolts require steel as mandatory ? im going to asume most of the suspensioin and brakes, motor mounts ?
10-24-2018, 03:15 PM
#7
Almost every bolt/hex screw on this car is a class 10.9 JIS steel fastener.
I wouldn't use aluminum or titanium on anything structural. They're probably fine for fenders, bumpers, etc. Aluminum is probably fine for coil pack bolts also...but you'll be applying absolutely MINIMAL torque to any aluminum M6 fastener, so they may vibrate loose.
If it needs a prescribed amount of torque, then don't use a different type of bolt. You may not think your alternator bolts need to be C10.9, for example. But you'd be wrong. The bolt is sized so that it will handle the torque needed to keep the parts together AS WELL as handle the load from use.
Cosmetic bolts are all you can safely swap. And you're not saving much weight. Titanium isn't really *that* much lighter than steel, per volume.
I would guess that you can safely shave like 5-10LB off the weight of the entire car by switching to aluminum and titanium. Plus, your wallet will be lighter. You win twice, brotherrrrr.
I wouldn't use aluminum or titanium on anything structural. They're probably fine for fenders, bumpers, etc. Aluminum is probably fine for coil pack bolts also...but you'll be applying absolutely MINIMAL torque to any aluminum M6 fastener, so they may vibrate loose.
If it needs a prescribed amount of torque, then don't use a different type of bolt. You may not think your alternator bolts need to be C10.9, for example. But you'd be wrong. The bolt is sized so that it will handle the torque needed to keep the parts together AS WELL as handle the load from use.
Cosmetic bolts are all you can safely swap. And you're not saving much weight. Titanium isn't really *that* much lighter than steel, per volume.
I would guess that you can safely shave like 5-10LB off the weight of the entire car by switching to aluminum and titanium. Plus, your wallet will be lighter. You win twice, brotherrrrr.
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10-24-2018, 09:47 PM
#8
Almost every bolt/hex screw on this car is a class 10.9 JIS steel fastener.
I wouldn't use aluminum or titanium on anything structural. They're probably fine for fenders, bumpers, etc. Aluminum is probably fine for coil pack bolts also...but you'll be applying absolutely MINIMAL torque to any aluminum M6 fastener, so they may vibrate loose.
If it needs a prescribed amount of torque, then don't use a different type of bolt. You may not think your alternator bolts need to be C10.9, for example. But you'd be wrong. The bolt is sized so that it will handle the torque needed to keep the parts together AS WELL as handle the load from use.
Cosmetic bolts are all you can safely swap. And you're not saving much weight. Titanium isn't really *that* much lighter than steel, per volume.
I would guess that you can safely shave like 5-10LB off the weight of the entire car by switching to aluminum and titanium. Plus, your wallet will be lighter. You win twice, brotherrrrr.
I wouldn't use aluminum or titanium on anything structural. They're probably fine for fenders, bumpers, etc. Aluminum is probably fine for coil pack bolts also...but you'll be applying absolutely MINIMAL torque to any aluminum M6 fastener, so they may vibrate loose.
If it needs a prescribed amount of torque, then don't use a different type of bolt. You may not think your alternator bolts need to be C10.9, for example. But you'd be wrong. The bolt is sized so that it will handle the torque needed to keep the parts together AS WELL as handle the load from use.
Cosmetic bolts are all you can safely swap. And you're not saving much weight. Titanium isn't really *that* much lighter than steel, per volume.
I would guess that you can safely shave like 5-10LB off the weight of the entire car by switching to aluminum and titanium. Plus, your wallet will be lighter. You win twice, brotherrrrr.
I would guess that you can safely shave like 5-10LB off the weight of the entire car by switching to aluminum and titanium. Plus, your wallet will be lighter. You win twice, brotherrrrr
aluminum fasteners are actually dirt cheap. and if you source your titanium fasteners from a local fastener shop or Chinese bulk there way cheaper than all the jdm engine dress up scams running around the net trying to charge 60 bucks for $6 worth of titanium
10-25-2018, 08:38 AM
#10
Some fastener information:
- Stainless steel will rust/corrode/gall if you install them into mild steel, which is used in automotive applications.
- You have to use anti-seize with titanium fasteners. Permatex recommends their nickel anti-seize.
- Grade 5 Ti64 strength rating is close to 10.9. ARP makes high strength(around grade 12.9) titanium fasteners and inconel fasteners, but those are custom/special order.
- I use a lot of titanium fasteners from Dress up bolts(I know a dealer that gives me a deal on them), Probolt USA, Ti64.com, Speedfactory(manifold studs) and Kyo-ei(lug nuts).
- Loctite threadlocker (or any other brand) will only activate when either the hole or fastener is steel. If you use it on a titanium fastener, on the aluminum engine, it won't work.
- Stainless steel will rust/corrode/gall if you install them into mild steel, which is used in automotive applications.
- You have to use anti-seize with titanium fasteners. Permatex recommends their nickel anti-seize.
- Grade 5 Ti64 strength rating is close to 10.9. ARP makes high strength(around grade 12.9) titanium fasteners and inconel fasteners, but those are custom/special order.
- I use a lot of titanium fasteners from Dress up bolts(I know a dealer that gives me a deal on them), Probolt USA, Ti64.com, Speedfactory(manifold studs) and Kyo-ei(lug nuts).
- Loctite threadlocker (or any other brand) will only activate when either the hole or fastener is steel. If you use it on a titanium fastener, on the aluminum engine, it won't work.
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