how much hp i'd be getting with this setup?
k so far spoon style CF airduct/spoon filter/T1R exhaust with testpipe and professionally and properly tuned apex vafc...what would be the estimate hp numbers be to the wheels and the crank? my goal wanting to reach 240 whp...also got a silvers epower voltage stabilizer that claims to gain 2-3 whp but i highly doubt it...and if combined with a grounding kit suppose to claim gains up to 7 whp...u think t1r earthing system combined with the stabilzer would offer good gains?
I doubt the earthing and stabilizer add any power...especially on a coil-over plug set-up.
My guess, with all that, you could be at 215-220whp. That, people have shown 207whp with only having the VAFC...and the test pipe is good for some power too...then the other with the other two...ya right in that range sounds right.
I also have a high NA whp goal with my car...265 has been done...but that requires a lot of work.
if you want to get to 240, your going to need a header (doesn't help peak too much but is good for mids), probably head work...
another thing that will help is a lightweight flywheel, and lightweight driveshaft...they won't add hp, but they will free some up thats already there (reduce drivetrain % loss).
My guess, with all that, you could be at 215-220whp. That, people have shown 207whp with only having the VAFC...and the test pipe is good for some power too...then the other with the other two...ya right in that range sounds right.
I also have a high NA whp goal with my car...265 has been done...but that requires a lot of work.
if you want to get to 240, your going to need a header (doesn't help peak too much but is good for mids), probably head work...
another thing that will help is a lightweight flywheel, and lightweight driveshaft...they won't add hp, but they will free some up thats already there (reduce drivetrain % loss).
I can tell you a number (say +5 to +15 whp peak), but it would be useless. You can find a dyno plot somewhere of another '02-'03 car with the exact same mods and same VAFC settings, but that would just be an estimate, since every car and components have tolerances not to mention any temp. and humidity differences during the dyno run. Anyways, if it was professionally tuned why wasn't it done on a dyno? How do you know they did anything good? What were the final A/F ratios, is the engine running unsafely lean? How do you know?
As far as reaching 240 whp NA (assuming that is +40 whp measured on a Dynojet), it not going to happen with bolt ons. Think engine rebuild, stroked, bored, increased compression, ported head, aggressive cams, and real stand alone engine management. Then maybe you'll get there, it might even be streetable. Lose the AC, lightweight flywheel and light and small wheels might put you over the top.
With the big cost of parts and labour to get to your goal, some dyno time is going to be relatively cheap. If you just care about bragging numbers, make one up. If you care about real performance, prove it for yourself with testing on your car. BTW, voltage stablizer and earthing kit, junk. Hey prove me wrong with a dyno.
As far as reaching 240 whp NA (assuming that is +40 whp measured on a Dynojet), it not going to happen with bolt ons. Think engine rebuild, stroked, bored, increased compression, ported head, aggressive cams, and real stand alone engine management. Then maybe you'll get there, it might even be streetable. Lose the AC, lightweight flywheel and light and small wheels might put you over the top.
With the big cost of parts and labour to get to your goal, some dyno time is going to be relatively cheap. If you just care about bragging numbers, make one up. If you care about real performance, prove it for yourself with testing on your car. BTW, voltage stablizer and earthing kit, junk. Hey prove me wrong with a dyno.
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christopherboon
S2000 Modifications and Parts
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Jun 3, 2008 07:39 PM



